rebuilding the slant6

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kielbasavw

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Believe the motor skipped a tooth. Since I have to pull and tear apart rigid might as well g the way since oil pressure isn't the best. It's old and worn. What are some things i should look to be doing. I know get head sent to put hardend seats in, and such. Car is for the old lady want it to perform real well. is there a good common cam I should look into, just a real nice and strong daily driver. New pistons? If I can get some tips and pointers thatbwould be great. ive built Chevys and air cooled vw motors. Never messed with a mopar.
 
Well, welcome to building a real motor.

The slant does not need anything special.Get stock style replacement pistons.Whatever rings and bearings you prefer.Call erson cams and talk to them for a suggestion on a cam,or you can just get your cam re-ground to hotter specs.Clean/rebuild the stock oil pump,if you are keeping it mild a single roller timing set will be fine.If you know how to port,go ahead and do some clean up on the head.You can have the head cut to bump up compression.A 2 bbl intake with a holley 350 should fit the bill. If you want a little more umph,get some bigger valves and go with the holley 500 2bbl. A nice single exhaust off the manifold,about 2 1/4 pipe.2 1/2 in. pipe if its compression bent.Any muffler you want.If you dont need manifold heat or a choke,you can go with headers.

That should do it.

Check out the articles section at www.slantsix.org for some tips and tricks on building a slant.
 
Funny a real motor... the slant is growing on me, but my personal vw motors blow anything away. Thanks for the tips, nothing fancy for pistons?
 
Yep, nothing fancy on pistons,unless you want to spend money.

Can your VW handle 30 psi of boost on stock internals? Like i said welcome to building a real motor.
 
My 4 banger aircooled makes more power then a typical v8 and is just as streetable. and its lighter, faster and n/a. on pump gas. I drove to Vegas from disneyland, raced the 1/4 mile a few passes, ran a 12.03 on street radials then drove back home with 32 mpg
 
kielbasavw said:
Believe the motor skipped a tooth. Since I have to pull and tear apart rigid might as well g the way since oil pressure isn't the best. It's old and worn. What are some things i should look to be doing. I know get head sent to put hardend seats in, and such. Car is for the old lady want it to perform real well. is there a good common cam I should look into, just a real nice and strong daily driver. New pistons? If I can get some tips and pointers thatbwould be great. ive built Chevys and air cooled vw motors. Never messed with a mopar.
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If you can build VW junkola, you can build a Mopar. Nuthin to it. Frank has a custom grind cam he came up with erson makes if you can get um on the phone. Maybe frank will chim in. Heck, he might have one to sell, I dont know.
 
If you don't want problems of any kind with this rebuild, the most I would do is upgrade the cam slightly.....repeat.....slightly... and add electronic ignition. Keep the compression ratio under 9:1 and leave everything else stock. A happy wife is one who has a car that gives her no trouble. And face it, do you really want her to drive a fast car?
 
cudamark said:
If you don't want problems of any kind with this rebuild, the most I would do is upgrade the cam slightly.....repeat.....slightly... and add electronic ignition. Keep the compression ratio under 9:1 and leave everything else stock. A happy wife is one who has a car that gives her no trouble. And face it, do you really want her to drive a fast car?
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What are you talking about? Its a slant,you could run 11-1 and have it ping on 87 and it would still keep running. I shot number 5 rod through the block and still drove it another 160 miles.
 
You will want to cut some off the head / block remember the Factory head gasket is .020 CH and the new one will be .038 CH. Also you will want to measure everything as the CR could be as low as 7 to 1. I like about 9-9.4 CR for a mild street motor. Send your stock cam up to Oregon Cams and have them grind it to about 270 deg. If you want to PM me ill get all the spec for that cam and scan the card and send to you. some mild pocket porting and bowl blending will help it breath. Remember the head is the single biggest inprovement you can make on a slant. The rest is bullet proof.
Frank
 
Grinder said:
What are you talking about? Its a slant,you could run 11-1 and have it ping on 87 and it would still keep running. I shot number 5 rod through the block and still drove it another 160 miles.
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That's probably why you threw the rod! :) I agree that the /6 can take some abuse and has lots of room for perfomance improvements but why go to all that trouble and expense for a grocery getter? The reason they would go a quarter million miles without major problems was that they didn't have enough power to break anything.
 
cudamark said:
That's probably why you threw the rod! :) I agree that the /6 can take some abuse and has lots of room for perfomance improvements but why go to all that trouble and expense for a grocery getter? The reason they would go a quarter million miles without major problems was that they didn't have enough power to break anything.
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No kiddin. It's sorta a known mechanical fact that when you increase output, you decrease longevity. Evidently not known to everybody. :toothy10:
 
cudamark said:
That's probably why you threw the rod! :) I agree that the /6 can take some abuse and has lots of room for perfomance improvements but why go to all that trouble and expense for a grocery getter? The reason they would go a quarter million miles without major problems was that they didn't have enough power to break anything.
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tell that to the Ramchargers who built the hyperpak...
 
i agree with frank, 270 cam, 9.3 or so comp, i would go with a small 4 brl tho over a big 2 brl...

and get a converter to match if it is a auto....
 
cudamark said:
If you don't want problems of any kind with this rebuild, the most I would do is upgrade the cam slightly.....repeat.....slightly... and add electronic ignition. Keep the compression ratio under 9:1 and leave everything else stock. A happy wife is one who has a car that gives her no trouble. And face it, do you really want her to drive a fast car?
Click to expand...

X2 Comp Cams makes a pair of cams worth considering. There's a group buy over at SlantSix.Org for an Erson (don't know the specifics). IMO target 9.0:1 CR. If it goes over a little, no sweat. Also consider the Super Six exhaust. It is 2¼" from end to end. With a decent, low restriction muffler it will make good sounds when opened up but quiet enough at cruise.
 
2 Darts said:
X2 Comp Cams makes a pair of cams worth considering. There's a group buy over at SlantSix.Org for an Erson (don't know the specifics). IMO target 9.0:1 CR. If it goes over a little, no sweat. Also consider the Super Six exhaust. It is 2¼" from end to end. With a decent, low restriction muffler it will make good sounds when opened up but quiet enough at cruise.
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i think erson went under... i called and it just rang and rang and rang...
 
what kind of cam specs would be ideal, for very mild street motor, very reliable, good on power and gas. i know cam specs for vw's but not sure how much different it is for bigger/american/more cylinders. i plan on using a super six setup, with either the carter or holley 2barrel. would like a real nice mild cam, i was considering building my own header, but maybe ill just stick with the stock manifold setup, and just do a bigger pipe down the back. would Ying off into 2 mufflers be a bad idea, or should i stick with the single. i already have the mopar electric ign setup. any special ways to get it up to 9:1cr and is that 87octane worthy on these motors? im gonna tear the motor out of the car tomorrow, and mostlikely dissasemble the whole thing. im 90% sure ill find broken or very floppy timing chain.
 
for my vw, the cam specs is .611 lift, with 1.4 ratio rockers, 174@50 which makes it a very rampy, and super high lift for a full street motor. do same rules apply to 6cyls?
 
kielbasavw said:
for my vw, the cam specs is .611 lift, with 1.4 ratio rockers, 174@50 which makes it a very rampy, and super high lift for a full street motor. do same rules apply to 6cyls?
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if u want a torque curve about 4500 run a cam like that...

remember these things have a 4.120 crank!!!!!!!!!! long stroke mean lots of torque!! u want like a 215-230* dur @ .050 with about .440-.470 lift with 1.4 rockers (stock)...

for street, less dur and lots of lift...

and with 87 u should be fine till 9.5 or so...
 
.750 lift with lots of nitrous. Two BIG bottles in the trunk. A fogger in the intake and a plate under the carb. Even a mask for the driver.
 
ok so you want like said above, 215-230* @ .050 dur, .400-.470 lift with 1.4 rockers, 104-18 LSA, degree cam 100*-102*.

thee things make lots of torque, so if u want to spin over 6K ur gonna need to do some work, weisco and K1 make pistons and rods
 
kielbasavw said:
what kind of cam specs would be ideal, for very mild street motor, very reliable, good on power and gas. i know cam specs for vw's but not sure how much different it is for bigger/american/more cylinders. i plan on using a super six setup, with either the carter or holley 2barrel. would like a real nice mild cam, i was considering building my own header, but maybe ill just stick with the stock manifold setup, and just do a bigger pipe down the back. would Ying off into 2 mufflers be a bad idea, or should i stick with the single. i already have the mopar electric ign setup. any special ways to get it up to 9:1cr and is that 87octane worthy on these motors? im gonna tear the motor out of the car tomorrow, and mostlikely dissasemble the whole thing. im 90% sure ill find broken or very floppy timing chain.
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I would use nothing more aggresive than a .425 lift and 225 duration. Good luck trying to get decent mileage out of a Super Six 2bbl setup. Never got better than 14MPG with mine. Anything higher than 9.0:1 is asking for pings on 87 octane fuel. Maybe not in the first few thousand miles but wait till you get a bit of carbon buildup. Maybe I've been lucky, but I've never seen a stock slant 6 lose a timing chain....let us know what you find!
 
cudamark said:
I would use nothing more aggresive than a .425 lift and 225 duration. Good luck trying to get decent mileage out of a Super Six 2bbl setup. Never got better than 14MPG with mine. Anything higher than 9.0:1 is asking for pings on 87 octane fuel. Maybe not in the first few thousand miles but wait till you get a bit of carbon buildup. Maybe I've been lucky, but I've never seen a stock slant 6 lose a timing chain....let us know what you find!
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im getting 16mpg with a 510/246 dur cam and have 9.4:1 with no pinging and 27* intail/34* total...
 
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