Rebuilt 360, excessive oil consumption

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1wild&crazyguy said:
So the intake was machined at the wrong angle, say was it used off e bay cause that would make a lot of sense for someone to sell it...and not mention the problem.

bummer
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The intake was new, never used. Just for the heck of it, I laid the intake back on the engine and tried to reinstall the bolts. Nothing seemed to line up correctly. I got all the bolts started, but nothing was lined up right. They seemed to be in a bind. When I Installed the iron intake, everything went on perfectly.
 
oldwirebender said:
The intake was new, never used. Just for the heck of it, I laid the intake back on the engine and tried to reinstall the bolts. Nothing seemed to line up correctly. I got all the bolts started, but nothing was lined up right. They seemed to be in a bind. When I Installed the iron intake, everything went on perfectly.
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hmmm. so your machinist fk'd up when assembling it by not mocking it up and correcting any issues, not to say the intake is perfect either....but that should have been caught.

If you stick an intake on the block w/heads 'no gasket'...with a good light behind it, you would see the off angle/gaps.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
hmmm. so your machinist fk'd up when assembling it by not mocking it up and correcting any issues, not to say the intake is perfect either....but that should have been caught.

If you stick an intake on the block w/heads 'no gasket'...with a good light behind it, you would see the off angle/gaps.
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He assured me that he personally assembled the rotating assy and the heads. He said he had a "new" guy put on the intake, oil pan, and valve covers. he gave me the 340 intake, so I guess that is something. if I had it to do all over again, I would build the engine myself. I only built one engine before, a chevy 350, and I made a couple of mistakes that cost me extra time and money. one, I got the timing chain off a tooth, but the big mistake I made was I did not cover all of the openings while it was stored. A 1/4 x20x1/2 bolt found it's way into the #7 cylinder. busted the head and ruined the piston. luckily, it did not score the cylinder wall. after a lot of frustration, I finally got it running. I felt that if an experienced builder would build my 360, I would avoid a lot of trouble and frustration. The next engine I build will be done by me!
 
green1 said:
Hot rod mag; oct 2009. And it ain't the first time I was told that.
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LOL... Well it ain't the first time a magazine was wrong and I can absolutely guarantee you if they said that they are wrong, and so was the other person(s) that told you.

I've attached a partial scan from Larry Shepard's book entitled "How to hot rod small block Mopar engines"

The subject is about filing piston rings and if you notice right about in the middle of the paragraph in parenthesis it mentions all three rings and calls them out as top, second, and oil ring.
 
Where did he say it wasn't a scraper? Sure it is compression, but also a scraper. Otherwise, why would it be different from the top ring?
 
Fishy,
Top ring is compression. Second ring is the secondary oil scraper. It's not designed to seal anything and has a tapered edge to scrape oil on the down stroke. Third ring (assembly) is the main oil scraper/remover.
 
Ok. Every class I've had and everything I've read in the past 30 yrs. never mentioned the 2nd ring was a scraper also. They just called it a compression ring. I guess I stand corrected.
 
I think it's more because of the appearance of it rather than the job it does. I still call it a compression ring because of the way it looks...lol. This is also why in most performance engines adding gap to the 2nd ring makes more power by keeping the top ring sealed to the piston's ring land.
 
The bevel of the second ring goes down in the opposite direction of the first (compression) ring. This is so that it will scrape oil off the cylinder on the down stroke. Next time you assemble one, pay close attention to the bevel on the second ring. From the end gap, the bevel will be on the bottom inside edge. Notice too that on some pistons, the top ring is completely isolated from the other two be a huge space. That's because the top ring is the primary compression ring.

I've always called the top two compression rings, too.....even though that second ring's primary purpose is to keep oil away from the top ring.
 
StrokerScamp said:
The bevel of the second ring goes down in the opposite direction of the first (compression) ring. This is so that it will scrape oil off the cylinder on the down stroke. Next time you assemble one, pay close attention to the bevel on the second ring. From the end gap, the bevel will be on the bottom inside edge. Notice too that on some pistons, the top ring is completely isolated from the other two be a huge space. That's because the top ring is the primary compression ring.

I've always called the top two compression rings, too.....even though that second ring's primary purpose is to keep oil away from the top ring.
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Yeah I've noticed that on some rings but not all rings seem to have a bevel, at least none that I could see. I go by the instructions that come with the rings as to their installation and even some instruction sheets mention that not all will have a bevel or groove.
 
moper said:
I think it's more because of the appearance of it rather than the job it does. I still call it a compression ring because of the way it looks...lol. This is also why in most performance engines adding gap to the 2nd ring makes more power by keeping the top ring sealed to the piston's ring land.
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I just learned that about using a bigger gap on the 2nd ring with the last one I assembled. Total seal rings (not gapless). The appearance is deceiving since it looks like a compression ring.
 
I'm not gloating, but us old farts know a little..
and i'm a young 59 years old. Just been around the block,(and it ain't my first rodeo). more than twice.
I try to help people in here, (and ask for help in here). Research helps a lot.
(we didn't used to have computers, in my day).

Fun question- install the rings at 120 degrees apart, put miles on them. Have they rotated?
 
I've had ring packs where some are beveled and then I'd get another ring pack for another engine and the rings are plain (no bevels). Go figure. I use Clevite or Total Seal 90% of the time.
 
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