Rebuilt A 833 front oil leak

-
Question 3 : silicone or no silicone? My guy used nothing. The red is grease.

20231211_101213.jpg
 
Hang on; the "snapring" in question is the great big one on the bearing itself. The retainer has to sit more or less flat on the face of the trans, before the gasket goes on. That big snapring has to fit in the recess provided for it. We call it a snapring but the truth is that there's nothing snappy about it, lol. I myself just don't know the proper name of it.

As to your other questions;
#1,The up and down play at the tip of the input gear is normal.
#2, nothing, The seal and the gasket got it covered.
#3, I have never used any sealer on the gasket, not ever, and never have I had a leak there, lol.
#44, If you look at the factory retainer bolts, they have a raised ring on the surface that seats against the retainer. That is usually sufficient to seal the screwholes. At one time, I had sealing washers for those screws, for redundancy. If your bolts are standard off the shelf bolts with lockwashers, then you will need to seal the threads.
 
Last edited:
The rubber seal needs to have grease on it so it doesn’t get burned on start up before the oil gets pumped up to lubricate it for the first time after install a new seal. And yes there is play on the shaft.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Hang on; the "snapring" in question is the great big one on the bearing itself. The retainer has to sit more or less flat on the face of the trans, before the gasket goes on. That big snapring has to fit in the recess provided for it. We call it a snapring but the truth is that there's nothing snappy about it, lol. I myself just don't know the proper name of it.

As to your other questions;
#1,The up and down play at the tip of the input gear is normal.
#2, nothing, The seal and the gasket got it covered.
#3, I have never used any sealer on the gasket, not ever, and never have I had a leak there, lol.
#44, If you look at the factory retainer bolts, they have a raised ring on the surface that seats against the retainer. That is usually sufficient to seal the screwholes. At one time, I had sealing washers for those screws, for redundancy. If your bolts are standard off the shelf bolts with lockwashers, then you will need to seal the threads.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks AJ, I've got the factory bolts for the retainer thankfully. I started grinding down the diameter on the c clip snapper ringermabob as per some earlier info, but after measuring the minimums and maximums needed for the thing to fit in the retainer recess and also work as intended I stopped, found Dan at Brewers. " #44" lmao thanks for the chuckle.
 
I8NEMO said:
Question 3 : silicone or no silicone? My guy used nothing. The red is grease.

View attachment 1716177240
Click to expand...

Interesting question as I am also "refreshing" a A833 gearbox.
I purchased the Kindle version of the Jamie Passon book "Chrysler A833 transmissions : how to rebuilt & modify", and Mr Passon highly recommends to use silicone RTV on the bearing retainer gasket and bolts.

Just my 2 cents, I know nothing about gearbox and I learn something every day :rolleyes:

@Dan Brewer : I will order some parts from you, but I wait January and the return to normality after the end-of-year festivities. I hope you have reasonable international shipping fees :)
 
Last edited:
French demon said:
Interesting question as I am also "refreshing" a A833 gearbox.
I purchased the Kindle version of the Jamie Passon book "Chrysler A833 transmissions : how to rebuilt & modify", and Mr Passon highly recommends to use silicone RTV on the bearing retainer gasket and bolts.

Just my 2 cents, I know nothing about gearbox and I learn something every day :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
I supply the gaskets to the previously mentioned...any why you would use silicone on them IDK. I do not, and have no problems. Under the head of the bolt is the only place I ever use sealer, and I have been using a non-hardening sealer.

NON HARD SEALANT.jpg


RET BOLT W SEALANT.jpg
 
Permatex it is! who can forget the unique odor, reminds me of when I was a kid helping Dad on the Power Wagon. Can't find the torque setting for the retainer bolts, anyone have that handy?
 
I8NEMO said:
Permatex it is! who can forget the unique odor, reminds me of when I was a kid helping Dad on the Power Wagon. Can't find the torque setting for the retainer bolts, anyone have that handy?
Click to expand...
Book calls for 30 ft/lbs....too much in my opinion. I use 250 inch/lbs on used cast retainers.

A833 4-SPEED TORQUE SPECS.PNG
 
Here's a visual showing the slight difference between the correct and incorrect bearing retainer ring. Correct ring ( left) has the smaller diameter/ shorter section height. If a guy's not savvy or in a hurry I can see where the taller clip could get installed mistakenly. An Incorrect bearing retainer clip prevents the retainer housing from mating against the gasket in fact, in rides on the bearing retainer clip guaranteeing a leak. A good way to check is slide the retainer housing on without a gasket and make sure it mates with the gear box housing, there should be 0 gap. I got the correct bearing retainer on from Brewers this morning, perfect fit.

Thanks Dan
 
I8NEMO said:
Here's a visual showing the slight difference between the correct and incorrect bearing retainer ring. Correct ring ( left) has the smaller diameter/ shorter section height. If a guy's not savvy or in a hurry I can see where the taller clip could get installed mistakenly. An Incorrect bearing retainer clip prevents the retainer housing from mating against the gasket in fact, in rides on the bearing retainer clip guaranteeing a leak. A good way to check is slide the retainer housing on without a gasket and make sure it mates with the gear box housing, there should be 0 gap. I got the correct bearing retainer on from Brewers this morning, perfect fit.

Thanks Dan
Click to expand...

20231216_084154.jpg
 
So after all of that, tranny is leaking again. I have a theory: I never aligned the bell. Each time I remove the tranny it is so stuck I need a come- along with much pulling force on the tranny while I pry it loose. Could it be the input shaft is deflecting enough due to misaligned bell, to deform the shaft seal?
 
As to sticking
Did you suck it together at install with the bolts?
If yes then the M/S pilot is probably jamming in the back of the crank.
If you painted the BH in the mating area there, well that could do it too.
Another thing that can happen; If you hang the trans on the clutch disc during install, cuz your arms got tired, the disc hub will bend, and subsequently stick, or jam if you really hung it.

as to leaking
If the BH is not broken nor welded, I doubt the input-shaft could ever get that far out of alignment. On second thought, forget that idea, lol.
Truthfully, those front seals almost never leak. I would sooner suspect a faulty seal, or some type of error in the installation of the seal, or even, a cracked retainer.
But most likely is that the retainer screws are the source. Those screw-holes are open at the back, and if the wrong screws are used, without sealer, they will leak.

Good luck
 
Last edited:
Sticking Trans
AJ, yes tranny reinstallation was complete and I had 1 or 2 drives on the car, then the leak started again. All mating surfaces are free of paint, trans work has always included the use of a tranny jack so there's been very little trans hanging if any. Bell has never been welded, I sand blasted and inspected it before paint.

Trans reassembly
The front seal looked perfect to me so I left it alone, especially knowing the wrong bearing retainer "was the problem" maybe I should have replaced it. I used Permatex sealant on the factory bolt head flanges only.

Unknowns
Now, I have not been under the car yet for a close inspection yet so : After the trans was in I did discover a leak at the reverse light switch so I replaced it and everything was dry for many days while sitting static. (I stabbed the new switch in quickly without draining the oil) I'm praying the new reverse light switch is the leak source again, if so I will drain the oil and re-install it using silicone I guess. You know, the smell of gear oil never bothered me until this go-around. LOL
 
Somewhere on FABO, I posted that the reverse switches always leak, even the new ones right thru the swedging and around the spades.
The only cure I have found is to take the switch out, clean it thoroughly outside and in, especially behind the ball, and blowing it out, multiple times. Then I use a two part epoxy that I smear all around the electrical spades, and jammed down alongside the spades, as best as I can; then repeat all around the perimeter swedging. Then, finally, heaping it part way up the spades, to increase it's grip.
Finally I hang it up, spades down and let it cure.

Silicone will not stay on there.
Nothing else that I have tried, sticks or stays.
Apparently other guys have had this trouble cuz I have two alloy cases on the bench right now, with the stripped threads in that location.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top