Recommendations for a stainless steel flaring tool

cudajames · Jan 25, 2021

I will be replacing my main fuel line with 3/8s stainless. I am running 4 link in back, which rules out buying pre-bent line.

I am looking for recommendations on flaring tool with the following requirements; double flare on stainless steel. I've only done a few soft metal test flares, so ease of use is a plus. And of course quality of flare is worth it's weight

thanks for the help and education

toolmanmike · Jan 25, 2021

cudajames said:
I will be replacing my main fuel line with 3/8s stainless. I am running 4 link in back, which rules out buying pre-bent line.

I am looking for recommendations on flaring tool with the following requirements; double flare on stainless steel. I've only done a few soft metal test flares, so ease of use is a plus. And of course quality of flare is worth it's weight

thanks for the help and education

Stainless is tough stuff. You might be bale to flare it with a quality flare tool like a Imperial Eastman or better yet a hydraulic flaring tool like the one made by Mastercool. In my opinion, stainless is unnecessary unless the race rules say you must.

Blind Squirrel · Jan 25, 2021

Stainless work hardens very quickly, making it less than ideal. But it can be done. I invested in this tool years ago and never looked back. Eastwood Brake Line Flaring Tool Kit for Professionals

It works best with good quality cutting tool, tapered reamer, and a big vat of anti-seize

Kendog 170 · Jan 25, 2021

I used a hydrulic tool on my SS brakelines. Had to tighthen fitting a few times to get a good seat. I would pass on fuel line but that's just me .

gzig5 · Jan 25, 2021

I've got the Eastwood tool and it is super easy to setup and use. I struggle with double flare on cupro-nickel 5/16" fuel line with the standard type flare tool. Half dozen tries and still leaked. Eastwood version got it right the first time. I'm sure it was my fault, but it makes a dullard look good. Don't think I'd want to do SS without a more robust tool though, especially 3/8"

cudajames · Jan 25, 2021

It sounding like 3/8 SS would present some challenges with flaring. Maybe I should change to steel line instead. The Eastwood and Mastercool flaring tools look quality.

I guess, on the bright side the steel line would be easier to shape then the stainless

TheGrateRonzini · Jan 25, 2021

I got a mastercool and it’s a great piece

dodgy · Jan 26, 2021

I have the same as the eastwood unit but got the kit with sae 45deg and
AN /jic 37deg dies, works good , but it's a guess at getting the 37deg single flare done.
This is a 37deg flare
Single and double
The tool does dubble better but single is industry standard for AN/Jic.

Demonracer · Jan 26, 2021

Flaring seamless stainless tubing is tough, we used to have to flare it in an industrial high pressure applications & there was a severe learning curve to get it correct. These days on my bracket car, I use teflon lined braided stainless hoses with AN style fittings. You can make the braided stainless go just about anywhere you want.

cudajames · Jan 26, 2021

I ordered the Mastercool 72475 (Thanks @toolmanmike ) and the 37 degree flare. I like the idea of connecting directly to AN fitting. It will be a lot cleaner. If I understand this correctly, I would use a AN tube sleeve and AN tube nut before the flare. Would this still be a double flare? And it should be 37 degrees?

Blind Squirrel · Jan 26, 2021

A double flare requires two operations. First operation you bubble and second you push half that bubble back inside its self. A single operation or single pull is just a flare fitting.

I suppose there are industrial machines that can make a double flare in one operation.

mopardude318 · Jan 26, 2021

I use a RoloFlair

ROLO-FLAIR FLARING TOOL 37° | Aircraft Spruce
Says not to use for stainless, but I use the Earls annealed stainless. Works great.

I also have a mastercool which is Kind of a pain in the *** cumbersome to use.

dodgy · Jan 27, 2021

I spoke with speedflow who supplied all my fittings, they said single or dubble will work either way along as it's 37deg flare but single is aircraft standard, I looked at both of them and the single has more surface contact on the flare and the nut will engage more therads on the fitting , so not arguing with that , that is what i went with.
So yes Tube nut and sleeve then flare and if you go with the single practice with the depth you insert your tube as the tool won't do this for you on a single.

Edit: just noticed you have a different tool to what i have so it may well set the depth of tube for you for the single flare.

cudajames said:
I ordered the Mastercool 72475 (Thanks @toolmanmike ) and the 37 degree flare. I like the idea of connecting directly to AN fitting. It will be a lot cleaner. If I understand this correctly, I would use a AN tube sleeve and AN tube nut before the flare. Would this still be a double flare? And it should be 37 degrees?

6PakBee · Jan 28, 2021

I was watching the last edition of Wheeler Dealers where they were working on a Coronet. Ant had a flaring tool I'd never seen. Bench mounted with a lever that formed the flare. Anyone ever seen anything like this?

volaredon · Jan 28, 2021

Why does having a 4 link have anything to do with how the fuel lines run? The gas tank mounts to the body/frame, not the suspension.

jos51700 · Jan 28, 2021

volaredon said:
Why does having a 4 link have anything to do with how the fuel lines run? The gas tank mounts to the body/frame, not the suspension.

Now we know why you don't have a 5 second street car.

volaredon · Jan 28, 2021

jos51700 said:
Now we know why you don't have a 5 second street car.

No, I don't. never have, never will be able to get anything that fast...... now can you please answer my Q?

on another note I have the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool, I like it other than sometimes with the forming dies and holding dies sometimes a 3rd hand is convenient, it can be a pain with all those pieces when working alone.... I dont get any "off center flares" like I occasionally do with my conventional double flare tool.

cudajames · Jan 28, 2021

Installing the 4link greatly reduced the area for fuel line routing. It reduced it to about 2" if you follow the original line against the frame rail, up and around the rear wheel well. The upper cross bar, is pretty tight and the pre-bent line caused some trouble pulling through. And of course, it doesn't look to neat

cudajames · Feb 18, 2021

Sorry work and family has kept me busy. However, I have not been totally idle. I bought the mastercool flaring tool and the 37 degree set. I am super happy with the tool, very easy to single and double flare. I practiced a little and matched a single and double flare against the AN fitting. In my case I went with double flares.

I also went with a roll of steel line, which is sure a lot easier to work with than SS. I ran the 3/8s for the feed and return lines - and sadly pulled out the new pre-bent ss that I had bought

cudajames · Feb 18, 2021

I did stumble on to an easy trick for adding the return line. I found fuel return line clips which were 3/8s and 1/4s, bent down the 1/4s end and combined two clips together. This produced a solid clip with a nice gap to attach my feed and return lines together. This is helpful in the two pinch areas, going through the frame and especially going over the four link frame support. Using the clips, not only secures the lines but provides a nice gap so the lines do not rub.

I hope to be finishing running the lines and attaching to the regulator this weekend. Getting closer to being back on the road

Cal Tonsley · Feb 18, 2021

Recently made and fitted 3/8“ feed and return lines in stainless using an Imperial 37 Degree Tool. Was a tough 2 day job laying on my back but got the job done in the end!