recommended oil for '68 383 ?

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Dave NEO

Dave NEO

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with 700 miles on a new cam, ground crank w/new bearings. I like Mobil 1 for most stuff..comments appreciated.thnx
 
Using Valvoline VR1 straight 40.
 
Roller cam? If so, Mobil One would be great. If not, stick to something like Lucas "High Zinc" Hot Rod & Classic Oil.
 
hydraulic flat tappet..my operating temp range is 40F to 90F. NO clue what is in there now but 700 mi after rebuild I wonder what is best as I look to end driving season and maybe do an oil change..
 
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VR 1 is high zinc.
 
wtf. are u serious? like we don't have manuals or the manual from '68 is the modern bible on the best motor oil available 50 years later...whatever.
 
[QUOTE"fratzog lover, post: 1971835966, member: 30789"]Courtesy isnt your strong suit I see. Reactions like that wont get people jumping to help you on here[/QUOTE]
likewise I'm sure. you don't quite get it either. Others give their experienced, considered opinion, he says 'go read a book'..lovely, really. it's a great planet. lots of interesting types..
 
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Dave NEO said:
hydraulic flat tappet..my operating temp range is 40F to 90F. NO clue what is in there now but 700 mi after rebuild I wonder what is best as I look to end driving season and maybe do an oil change..
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AMSOIL Z-Rod synthetic is available in 10w30 and 20w50 with 1400 zddp. I have used Rotella T but it is changing from 1100 to 800 zddp.
 
LovetheA's said:
I like valvoline vr1 high zinc levels and don't need zinc additive when you run it.
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It is not cheap but if you buy it by the case you save a few $. Mine holds 8 quarts.
 
Dave NEO said:
wtf. are u serious? like we don't have manuals or the manual from '68 is the modern bible on the best motor oil available 50 years later...whatever.
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Okay, smartass.
1) Use the forum search function. This subject has been covered extensively, from oil weights to brands.
2) Learn how to formulate an easily understood question.

What I gathered from the subject of the post was you wanted to know what weight oil. The only question I saw was in the subject. The body of the post had nothing but rambling. The service manual is the only thing I can comment on for a recommendation because there are variables (important ones by the way) that you left out of your post.

Important **** to include in your question, none of which was included;
tolerances
flat or roller cam
volume/pressure of oil pump
oiling modifications
crank scraper/windage tray
summer driving only or daily driver
et cetera.

:icon_fU:
 
first post should have been clue you were looking for a fight/argument (and still are). Anyway thanks guys for a lots of good suggestions/comments for this new to me motor. 15/50 seems a little heavy but maybe it really isn't all things considered. Are there zinc #'s for Mobil 1 15/50? never mind, 1300 I see - seems decent.
 
Dave NEO said:
with 700 miles on a new cam, ground crank w/new bearings. I like Mobil 1 for most stuff..comments appreciated.thnx
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I doubt that it matters at all. Buy whatever is on sale and change it on a regular basis and you'll be fine. For an engine like that I'd use the cheapest stuff that Costco sells. They usually have a Chevron 5w-30 that is pretty cheap. Throw it in there and change it every 3000 miles and don't worry about it. Save your money for something that matters.
 
it's getting old and I am too. VR1 and done.
 
Any premium brand 10w/30 with a good amount of zinc will suffice. Since I am not interested in the synthetics, I cannot comment on their zinc content. I don't think there are many synthetics with enough zinc for flat tappets.

As mentioned already, the Lucas Hot rod & Classic oil is a good, quality premium oil that has 2400 PPM of ZDDP. I run it in my '75 F250 and it does very well. Holds good pressure.

Also, you need to be careful if you decide to use a ZDDP additive. First off, you need to premix it before you put it in the engine. Doing this makes sure you distribute the additive evenly rather than it sitting in the bottom of the oil pan waiting its turn to get sucked up by the oil pump.

Lastly, make SURE to read the label if you go with an additive, because there are several BS products on the market. READ the label Make sure it says it has ZDDP in it. There are some that say right on the label "contains no zinc of phosphorus". What the hell good is that?

Thank you drive through.
 
Oh and one last thing. If you do decide to run an additive, use STP Oil Treatment. It's had ZDDP in it right from the rip. It's like 3.99. But don't use the store brand of it. It doesn't say it has ZDDP. STP does.
 
AndyF said:
I doubt that it matters at all. Buy whatever is on sale and change it on a regular basis and you'll be fine. For an engine like that I'd use the cheapest stuff that Costco sells. They usually have a Chevron 5w-30 that is pretty cheap. Throw it in there and change it every 3000 miles and don't worry about it. Save your money for something that matters.
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I agree w/ Andy. I ran 20w40 in my "new" 383, 68 form S fastback back in the day. Cant find it now. Also ran whatever oil my sponsers would furnish in the hemi car for 14 years, it didn`t make a piddly dam what brand it was ! The weight ,and being kept clean is the most important part.
 
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