Regulator
- Thread starter Pettero
- Start date
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AdamR
Big Member
The top picture that you have is the ECU unit. Thats your ignition box. The bottom pictures are the voltage regulators. You want the one on the right
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Now wait just a minute
The one on the right is for the 70 and later alternators. You can only use this if you have a 70 and later alternator which has TWO field connections, and you can modify your wiring to easily use it, that is, add one wire
BUT IF YOU HAVE the older (69/ earlier) alternator, with only ONE field connection, you need a regulator which goes with the 69/ earlier system.
MOST replacement modern regulators ARE electronic, NOT mechanical.
To tell, look at the bottom of the regulator or at the case height
If it has a "shorter" case, it is electronic, like this:
If it has a full size case, it may or may NOT be electronic. In this case look at the bottom, and if it DOES HAVE the two large resistors here, it IS NOT an electronic regulator
A better way to go with a 69/ earlier alternator, and you can ALSO use this regulator on the later alternators by simply grounding one field, is the NAPA/ Echlin VR-1001 or the Standard VR-128
Looks like this:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Ignition-VR128-Volt-Reg/dp/B000CQ1YJ8"]Amazon.com: Standard Ignition VR128 Volt Reg: Automotive[/ame]
LOL. I don't know what I did. All my text turned into a hyperlink!!
green1
Well-Known Member
Get on older style reg, converted to electronic. About $65
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
My understanding is that all of the recently built "old style" voltage regulators are solid-state. Reason being the old mechanical regulators, with all that copper wire and other metal parts are too expensive to build. Easy check - look at the bottom for the two large resistors shown in a previous post. The old mechanical regulators work fine with points ignition. Electronic ignitions don't like them at all!
ATB
BC
ATB
BC
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There has to be a regulator. If you have a non--factory alternator such as a Powermaster or Delco, it's possible that the regulator is either internal to the alternator, or a small miniature one bolted to the alternator (Powermaster)
But the factory regulator for your car should look like the one I posted. IF the alternator AND regulator were converted to a 70/ later setup you would have the blue regulator which you posted at first
Otherwise it has been removed and can not charge. Look around the cowling for a disconnected green wire with a ring or "fork" wire end, and a dark blue with an insulated "push on" connector.
Can you post a photo of your alternator? What wiring was hooked to it? Did it EVER charge?
But the factory regulator for your car should look like the one I posted. IF the alternator AND regulator were converted to a 70/ later setup you would have the blue regulator which you posted at first
Otherwise it has been removed and can not charge. Look around the cowling for a disconnected green wire with a ring or "fork" wire end, and a dark blue with an insulated "push on" connector.
Can you post a photo of your alternator? What wiring was hooked to it? Did it EVER charge?
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
The thin chrome box in 273's 1st photo is $11 at rockauto. I bought one a month ago for my 64 Valiant. Should hook direct to your factory wiring. The old box (you probably have near master cylinder) is a mechanical relay that switches on and off and thus disturbs your 12 V supply, which is undesired for electronic ignition (and other devices). You should run a ground wire to the case of your ignition box, not rely on the sheet-metal screw like the factory did. That is a very common problem. Indeed, had you asked earlier, most of use would have recommended using a GM HEI module and coil and eliminate the ballast resistor (many posts).
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
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