Removing an upper ball joint

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MoparFan

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Hi,

I have to remove a 31 years old upper control arm ball joint, and lets just say he doesn't want to... :evil:
So, to heat a little the control arm around the ball joint, will work?
Ever try that?
Can this create strength problem in the control arm?

Also I have read somewhere that some persons were making small weld tacks to keep the upper ball joint attach to the control arm, any of you would advice/avoid to do that?

Last question, I am looking for a set of 1972 model sway bar bushing (the triangle one). Can't find it, any of you know a supplier, and if by any chance you know one in Canada would be even better (because of the custom fees)?


Thanks for your help
 
There is a special socket that fits the upper ball joint. Using that socket and an impact wrench it should come out pretty easy. It may be worth taking the control arms to a shop and having them done vs buying the socket though.
 
If it is real tight and rusty it is best to leave it in the car and impact it. Heat might work, but don't melt it and don't cool it off too quickly after you get it out.

I wouldn't tack weld it in unless you are racing it.
 
the proper socket, at least a 1/2" breaker bar (most sockets are set up for a 3/4" socket though--can get an adapter as i did), and a solid length of pipe--min. 3 ft long. leave the arms in the car and go to town. they are tough turning the whole way out.

i install the new ones with a bit of anti-seize on them---just in case for next time. the threads are real shallow so make sure they go in straight, and crank them in and tourqe to spec. pretty easy, but will take about an 1/2 hr to hr to do.

--chad
 
What is the actual size of the ball joint socket? I have to do at least one in my '67...probably will do both.
 
i got both sockets for the large and small ball joints... and I cant tell you the size cuz they are at my brothers place. though I know there is no markings on them to indicate size. got mine from Just Suspension
 
they are a 4 sided socket, a unique one. without it, they ain't comin' out.
 
Yea, what they said about the special socket. Long cheater bar and something to hold the control arm, if it isn't still on the car.
I have wedged them in the class 5 hitch on the back of my truck. Hey, it worked. Unless your bench is anchored and you have a unreally big vice to hold it you gotta do something.
Another thing I have done is grinding the top off. Taking the guts out and cutting a grove from inside seems help relieve pressure.
 
Snapon makes the sockets the small one is pn# S9365B and the large is pn#S9479A both are 3/4" drive I'm sure lisle or kd makes some also unless you are super tight with a mechanic or a alignment shop that has one you'll probably have to buy one or Oreillys or Autozone rents or loans them out. or where at one point.
 
about two hours and a pipe wrench got mine off. but i had some busted up knuckles from the wrench slipping. i ordered the tool set from just suspension. told them my car was a 75 so it needed the big socket. so what did they send me? the small one. but we got er done. i had a shop put the new ones in and the guy said he usually puts a tac weld on them but he didnt do mine since they were so tight when they went in.
 
heat them up a LITTLE bit and them spray something like wd40 on them and let it soak a few minutes. heating them a little expands the metal and lets the penetrating oil in. like turbodart says, leave the arms in the car and the sockets should come out. i needed a 3 foot cheater bar for mine. make sure to clean the insides real good and put never seize on the new sockets when you screw them in.
 
If they had to be welded in, I think I would find another vendor.
(probably only one manufacturer makes them anymore anyway LOL).
But really, I have had the corner auto parts store reorder front end parts for me because I sort of like my tie rod ends to look the same on both sides. And if they get them from two mfgs. they don't.
Chrysler didn't weld them in that I know of and every one I have put in was an "interference" fit. Just like what came out. Almost can't get them in sometimes even with anti
Don't see the need for a weld.
 
I couldn't get mine off either. I ended up welding a 3/4" nut to the top of it and taking it off that way. Those size sockets I DO have.
I put the new ones in with a crescent wrench.
 
Ive had them stuck so bad that it removed the threads from the control arm even after using heat and penetrating fluid...most of the US guys and probably those out west wouldnt quite understand how bad things get siezed and rust here in the maritimes

if you do tack weld it in, make it quick as too much heat will destroy your new balljoint internally
 
when I put the the disk brake kit on the front of the Barracuda I had the end shop pop the new ball joints in for me after I powdered coated the new upper a arms they even took the old a arms ball joints out let me clean them up and when I brought them back they put new ball joints in them for me. I got new ball joints when I got the poly graphite rebuild kit.and a new set of large a arms with the brake kit .It helps to have a front end shop that you go to all the time . O also he is a Mopar nut. :cheers:
 
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