Removing connections from bulkhead!

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LovetheA's

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I'm in the process of replacing and removing some of the wires running to my bulkhead connector. How do you get the wired connections out of the black plastic connectors that clip onto the firewall bulkhead? Is it easier to just cut the wires slide on new male connections crimp and slide into new plastic connectors. I'm having a hell of a time getting the wires out of the black plastic connectors. Can I buy new male copper connectors at any hardware store?

Carl
 
No, but NAPA has them. There's a little "catch" sticking out the terminal which goes down and catches in the plastic. You have to stick a very small screwdriver down in there and release the catch.

Similar to these

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See the groove on top of the terminal? The terminal slides in from the rear, and "catches." You poke a small driver down in this slot from the front to release the tang/ finger / latch

amp-ga23.jpg
 
The bulkhead terminals are termed "56 terminal" or "Packard 56". Used on 60-70's GM and Mopar, even later in Dodge motor-homes, also, in appliances. You can buy terminals on ebay, but not the plastic housings for our bulkheads. Wires are usually fine on the cabin side, so just remove and clean (file & contact cleaner). I think terminals are usually tin-plated brass, or sometimes pure brass.

If the engine side wires are brittle (common), might be best to rewire. That isn't hard, just tedious. Photo above was from my post where I rewired my engine bay (64 & 65 cars), using a relay/fuse box from a 95-99 Jeep, so I used smaller 20 awg ribbon cable since those simply actuate relays. You can buy non-adhesive vinyl tape to wrap new wires like the factory did. I used PVC sheath (ex. PVC-105, SPC Technology, can buy on ebay). Much easier to buy engine bay harnesses (lights and engine), if available for your unknown year and engine (Year One, etc).
 
I've seen these terminals available on ebay. Those were tinned which helps prevent corrosion. Are they OEM thickness ? I don't know
 
Have fun! I just did some of mine, even worse if the plastic is melted to the terminal. Be patient, sometimes you have to work the locking tab and pull the terminal at the same time.
 
you can indeed buy the plastic terminal blocks for our cars look for the guys that sell replacement circuit boards for your dash , they have them and so does another outfit I can't remember the name of . I just saw them a couple of weeks ago .
 
Richie said:
How do you get the terminal holder off of the bulkhead?
Click to expand...


The individual connectors (there are 3) have little latches on the sides

If you are referring to the main bulkhead connector in the firewall, there are 4 metal spring tabs, you just gently pry on them and the whole thing "falls out"


UPDATE Don't buy these from NAPA they are incredibly over priced. I think they wanted something like 75 cents EACH

I found them in Auveco I think the brand is. I believe I bought them here

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/

I believe these are "them" Be careful of the female, there are two different designs. The one you want looks EXACTLY like the originals

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Packard_56_Series_Male_16_14_Gauge_Terminals_GM_p/w31c030.htm
 
One terminal is stuck with no wire on the end of it so I just want to take it out. I've tried and tried everything like a jeweler's screwdriver etc. but don't you have to go in from the opposite side to get something like that out?

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6FLYaPcUrk"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6FLYaPcUrk[/ame]
 
damn bulk head. burnt up just like mine did.

luckily for me i found a DONer at the junk yard easy swap.

except when your doing it backwards/upside down and you accidentally get some wires mixed/...
 
My 1967 Barracuda has the connectors found in picture #4. I had something short out and burn up a wire to the ballast resistor. These connectors are tough to get out. Mine separated in two pieces. My wiring is prestige and yes I cried when I saw the smoke....just glad I caught it in time to save the wire loom.
image.jpg

image.jpg
 
Your connector is a little different than the ones shown in this post.
There's some more recent threads with the connectors and terminals used 67.
Give me a sec I'll should be able to find it quick
 
Here's one: question on the main harness plug on firewall

The male terminals are removed by squeezing the barb shown here and pushing out
upload_2019-6-18_20-35-47-png.png


These are M&H reproductions. PED is Packard Electric Division. Yours may be marked differently.

Definately go under the dash and remove the mating female terminal to check for condition. For that flatten a cotter pin or get the terminal removal tool.
 
I just took the front seat out so I can get under the dash to trace the wires from the ignition switch. By chance do you have a schematic if which terminals on the Ignition switch that are tied to the start and run positions?
 
Yes. There's a copy in the 67 Barracuda Service Manual Supplement. let me remember whether there's copy at Hamtramck Historical or mymopar.

I also have a schematic (stripped down version) of the main, ignition, and charge circuits posted a few places.
I'll post it here but the link will get you a bigger version,
Caivity N will match up and the other end is right at the switch.
I would check the wire to the ballast for a ground short. Clip a ohm meter probe on one end and the other probe to ground.
Understanding Charging Systems with Ammeter
upload_2019-7-14_15-50-46.png
 
Thank you for sharing the diagrams. I hate electrical stuff when you don’t understand how everything works. Thanks again.
 
Mattax said:
I would check the wire to the ballast for a ground short. Clip a ohm meter probe on one end and the other probe to ground.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure how great a test that is.
resistance through the alternator's rotor will be pretty low, even normally.
Might have to disconnect stuff and check smaller segments.
 
get familiar with the factory diagrams, once you learn to read them it's much easier
 
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