Removing green bearing

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Enough heat to affect the collar will ruin the seal in the bearing. I have never tried to remove the green bearings, but with the stock bearing I have always had to remove the collar first, by notching it, then remove the bearing, and it is a b***h without ruining the bearing.

FYI: The factory service manual, is adament not to use heat to remove the bearing, as it affects the temper/heat treat of the axle. I have used a little heat to help the press, but not a lot.
 
Bearing splitter needed to remove it? Never have i had to save a bearing. To me its not worth the hassle,and the risk of damage.
 
Both times I've removed them was with cut off wheel and replaced with new. The only way my brain thought of at the times.
 
NEVER EVER try to save a bearing of this type.

1...You may warp the axle from the pressure, as you have to press on the "long" end

2...The splitter/ tool/ other device is likely to put so much pressure on the balls/ rollers that you will damage either the balls the races, or all three

This is one reason I hate the expensive and stupid newer design of front wheel bearings. It all first started with the Dodge "full time" 4x4s and other front wheel drive vehicles. Even my 01 Ram 3/4 2wd used the Damn things.
 
NEVER EVER try to save a bearing of this type.

1...You may warp the axle from the pressure, as you have to press on the "long" end

2...The splitter/ tool/ other device is likely to put so much pressure on the balls/ rollers that you will damage either the balls the races, or all three

This is one reason I hate the expensive and stupid newer design of front wheel bearings. It all first started with the Dodge "full time" 4x4s and other front wheel drive vehicles. Even my 01 Ram 3/4 2wd used the Damn things.
To the best of my knowledge, the wheel bearings in my 80 power wagon are original,almost 500,000 km’s on them.
The unitized hub assemblies are all junk.
Ball bearings just dont stand up like cylindrical types.
 
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