Removing my 273 engine
- Thread starter 66Glassback
- Start date
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MILO
Well-Known Member
Nice looking Cuda you have I like it
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
You can use plastic cups (made for this purpose) for the tail shaft, instead of using a slip joint. They do not fall out of get in the way. I have a set for different size openings.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
If you didn't mark the hood position exactly, you may spend a lot of time trying to realign it perfectly (how would I know?). I don't think a Sharpie outline of the brackets is sufficient (wasn't for me). I suspect the factory aligned it with a worker inside the empty engine bay to tighten the bolts once perfectly aligned. You might consider doing that while your bay is empty. Once aligned, if you drill 2 small holes thru each bracket before unbolting again, you should be able to bolt it up perfectly, by inserting nails in the holes. My 1985 M-B designers were thoughtful. The hood brackets have release levers which allow it to be opened to the vertical for maintenance. Wish I knew that trick when I swapped an engine and first removed the hood, thinking necessary like when I did that in my 1969 Dart.
66Glassback
Active Member
I'm already contemplating with or without the transmission on the install. That will be March or April so I have some time. I'm more worried about the left side of the engine. You have that weird exhaust manifold, the starter, the shift linkage, the z-bar for the clutch and the clutch fork to install all crammed in on that side. I also marked the hood and it went back in place nicely, just to be removed again on the install. It sure sits a lot higher in the front without the engine.
MILO
Well-Known Member
Pretty car in the air makes it look like a gasser I like the shade of blue color
66Glassback
Active Member
Thanks, I'm getting it painted next summer. I'm keeping the color but maybe changing the color of the stripes.
Don’t forget to install a slip yoke in trans, that oil is hard to get off floor
66Glassback
Active Member
No I didn't need to remove the center link it cleared it.
Wow, good for you! I remember that being really tight in my '65 Barracuda. I've run a Lakewood blowproof bellhousing for a long time and, in my case, that center link needs to come out. If you can, I would reinstall engine and trans together. It is much easier to mount the trans to bellhousing/clutch assembly before install. As in... get it in there without knocking the throwout bearing off the fork. Make sure to use a clutch alignment tool to get the clutch disc centered when installing pressure plate or that trans ain't going in.
You probably know all this and you are not even there yet. Yet I yap.
Good luck!!
66Glassback
Active Member
I just got some bad news from the machine shop today. My block has a crack in it. Does anyone know if a 360 would fit in my 1966 Barracuda?
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Yes, it will physically fit. There are many things that need to be changed or modified though, if you're trying to use some of the 273 parts.
MILO
Well-Known Member
Thats a bummer cracked block I really like the 273 best and have one I bought a while back and rebuilt for my next project when I find one They are just right for me and I have had many mopars of all engine sizes
Too bad you live on the east coast. My buddy up in WA state has several.
Commando66
She's a beaut Clark!
The 360 is a pretty easy swap. Just a few things to change or modify. The passenger(?) motor mount needs to be modified, use the pre-1969 water pump, a 360 passenger car oil pan, machine shop needs to balance your flywheel for the external balance 360. Depends on what year the 360 is but there is a coolant passage "bump" that interferes with the driver side exhaust manifold.
MILO
Well-Known Member
A 318 LA is a easier swap bolts right up and same oil pan as 273
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Much easier. Less motor mount bracket mods (usually...depends on the year of the block), same pan and pickup, same intake and exhaust ports, and no converter/flywheel rebalance.
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