Replace rocker shafts for sure

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pishta said:
What happened to the Shubeck lifter, ceramic face shatter and come off in pieces?
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IIRC they didn’t take ANY valve float and they were sensitive to spring pressure falling below spec.

And IIRC, there were some issues later on with the ceramic coming off the lifter and when that happens...

And IIRC Schubeck was working on a ceramic (or some other materiel like that) roller lifter that didn’t have a wheel, but the lifter had a pretty big radius on it because you could design around the lifter bore size and wheel diameter. IIRC the equivalent convention wheel diameter would have to be something like 2 inches or something wild like that.

Don’t know what ever happened to that system and how far it was actually developed but it would be interesting to see if it could be developed further.
 
Wyrmrider said:
What are you doing for rockers?
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Rockers will stay the same. Unless I find further issues.

I talked to the guy who bought them off of and his engine builder said he has had multiple shaft issues with t&d but they were likely all the same batch.

Going to replace both shafts and get that info to Mike for the correction kit.

Oh and yes these rockers are already cup adjuster with oiling.
 
way to go mini
make sure the needles are all ok
spin them around and see how they feel
repositioning will give you fresh needles
I did like the ras case hardned shafts vs the induction hardened ones
there were a lot of those inductioned hardened ones that would Rockwell ok but it was so thin it would Brinell through
and chrome...
ok with bushings
 
mini said:
Rockers will stay the same. Unless I find further issues.

I talked to the guy who bought them off of and his engine builder said he has had multiple shaft issues with t&d but they were likely all the same batch.

Going to replace both shafts and get that info to Mike for the correction kit.

Oh and yes these rockers are already cup adjuster with oiling.
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If you don’t mind, can you post up the amount of correction it will take to get your geometry correct? I think it will help some see how far off some of this stuff is.

When I slam my heads back on, I’ll measure mine and post it as well. I know mine is .187ish up and .060 back, of course IIRC.

TIA
 
Hey YR,
Are you figuring those numbers off of the valve side of the rocker only? And if so, are you setting it so that a line from the rocker shaft axis to roller contact tip is 90* to the valve axis at mid lift?
Tnx.
 
nm9stheham said:
Hey YR,
Are you figuring those numbers off of the valve side of the rocker only? And if so, are you setting it so that a line from the rocker shaft axis to roller contact tip is 90* to the valve axis at mid lift?
Tnx.
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I measured the thickness of the shim and I forget how I came up with how far back the shafts were moved...IIRC I put the shaft on without the shims and took a measurement off some fixed spot. Then I put the shims under the shaft and measured it again.

I will double check my numbers when it goes back together.
 
Question. Where should the oil holes be facing on the shafts? These were facing up. Opposite the side of the load/roller wear
 
If there is one hole, they go down. And don't think they 'squirt' as much as they just 'ooze' with the stock oiling system. The pressure up in the shafts is pretty low with the stock oiling setup.
 
Talked to Mike today. He had some great suggestions. Also gave confidence that t&d are in fact good rockers over others but stresses that oiling mods are required and broke down everything I should do. Including the crossover valley oiling tube, tapping and installing a .040 restrictor to keep oil pressure up and the common other oiling mods posted here.

He also mentioned how bushings will work with this application but without an immense amount of oil will wear quickly with high spring pressure compared to a good roller bearing setup.

Also noted not to use pushrod oiling as through the rocker will provide adequate amounts of oil with the correct modification. And you may end up over oiling and creating low pressure at high rpms.
 
mini said:
Talked to Mike today. He had some great suggestions. Also gave confidence that t&d are in fact good rockers over others but stresses that oiling mods are required and broke down everything I should do. Including the crossover valley oiling tube, tapping and installing a .040 restrictor to keep oil pressure up and the common other oiling mods posted here.

He also mentioned how bushings will work with this application but without an immense amount of oil will wear quickly with high spring pressure compared to a good roller bearing setup.

Also noted not to use pushrod oiling as through the rocker will provide adequate amounts of oil with the correct modification. And you may end up over oiling and creating low pressure at high rpms.
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How much spring pressure are you using?
 
Oil sent to rockers is timed, so your not going to get alot of volume unless you groove some bearings. Of course higher RPM's will fill them up good. Not sure what a grooved bearing will do to overall oil pressure as it will be bleeding everywhere up there, probably why its timed to begin with.
 
Of course....... if it had pushrod oiling, you could plug the original oiling to the top.
You know........ like the factory did with the magnums.
 
PRH said:
Of course....... if it had pushrod oiling, you could plug the original oiling to the top.
You know........ like the factory did with the magnums.
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And how would the shaft oiling be at that point? My guess is dry. Also had a thought, with a solid roller with lash wouldn't the oil just slop out of the pushrod and pressure would be lost?
 
Unless there is something unusual about your T&D’s...... they’re designed to pushrod oil.

Maybe yours aren’t suitable for it, but a little inspection would answer that question.

B90D6B15-E7D6-4284-AF49-D1C456782178.png
 
Features & Benefits of T&D shaft-mount roller rocker systems T&D rocker arms have an oil passage (see diagram) built into most rocker arms to channel pressurized oil from the pushrod cup to the shaft bearings and then on to the roller tip.
 
But......

built into most rocker arms
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You should verify yours are like that.

If they are set up for it .....if it were mine...... they would get pushrod oiled.

Just like every w7/w8/w9 build.
 
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Looks like pushrod oiling would be “no problemo”.

Sure...... they “can” use the stock oiling........ But they don’t have to.

The first set of those I used went on some w2 heads.
The guy at T&D was like....... can you pushrod oil?
 
mini said:
View attachment 1715547798
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I disagree with footnote 104. If the geometry is correct, that rocker will take a 1.625 spring. Honestly, I can’t understand how T&D doesn’t get this. They tell people their stuff is bolt on, and it damn sure ain’t.

BTW, I get pushrod oiling, but I don’t use it with any block that has OE chrysler oiling. You can get enough oil to the shafts and rockers with a grooves cam, but you can’t control all the leakage at the lifters.

As I’ve said before, if the system is correct chrysler oiling of the shafts and adjusters are good to well past 8500 RPM. And that was using bushed rockers and 340 on the seat and IIRC 800 or a bit more over the nose.
 
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