Replaced Master Cylinder (Brake lights stuck on)

[Otateral]

This is my first time doing this, so I followed instructions precisely, or so I thought.

Took the rod off the pedal & took lines off the cylinder. Removed the master cylinder. Filled the new master cylinder halfway with brake fluid, bled the new master cylinder by pressing a dowel an inch in, then slowly pulling out until bubbles stopped showing up.

Installed the new master cylinder on the firewall, attached the brake lines. (Note: I noticed bubbles showing up in the master cylinder while screwing in the lines, that normal?) I then attached the pedal back to the rod.

I then bled all 4 wheels (RR, RL, FR, FL)

I reused the same rod, so the length shouldn't be a problem. But now, here's the problem:

The brake pedal is now a bit lower than it was, which is causing the brake light to constantly be engaged. What could cause this?

 

[waggin]

bad or missing spring inside the mc? you shouldnt have to pull the dowel out, the mc is spring loaded

 

[Otateral]

It's spring loaded, for sure. The instructions said to press a wooden dowel in, then slowly release to bleed the master cylinder.

 

[waggin]

the brake light switch is adjustable with a 7/16ths wrench...move it closer to the brake pedal

 

[Johnny Dart]

the brake light switch is adjustable with a 7/16ths wrench...move it closer to the brake pedal

Ding Ding Ding Ding....We have a winner !!!

 

[Otateral]

Thanks guys, worked perfectly!

 

[BillGrissom]

When I did this on my 2 A's recently, I took the opportunity to remove the entire pedal assembly, de-rust and repaint. It appears the factory didn't even paint the pedal bracket, which could be scary in the rusty north. Anway, the switch adjustment then is obvious.