Replacement axles?

[Odin]

I need advice from the experienced early A body folks...
I pulled the axles on my recently acquired 65 Barracuda slant six car to replace the bearings. It's a "driver" meant to be fun to putz around in from time to time. I have several other car projects taking the majority of my time and money so this car will most often get parts that are a short or mid term value as opposed to the very best show parts available.
Upon removing the worn bearings, I found one axle has less than a smooth seat for the new bearing.

Can I safely clean up the axle and re-use it?
Are the Chinese Dura-Last bearings I found at the local auto parts store good enough?

 

[toolmanmike]

I need advice from the experienced early A body folks...
I pulled the axles on my recently acquired 65 Barracuda slant six car to replace the bearings. It's a "driver" meant to be fun to putz around in from time to time. I have several other car projects taking the majority of my time and money so this car will most often get parts that are a short or mid term value as opposed to the very best show parts available.
Upon removing the worn bearings, I found one axle has less than a smooth seat for the new bearing.

Can I safely clean up the axle and re-use it?
Are the Chinese Dura-Last bearings I found at the local auto parts store good enough?

View attachment 1716013868

View attachment 1716013869

As long as the booger isn't on a sealing surface you are good. Why replace the bearings? Remember, those get packed with grease like the front ones do. Rear end lube doesn't keep them lubricated.

 

[Odin]

As long as the booger isn't on a sealing surface you are good. Why replace the bearings? Remember, those get packed with grease like the front ones do. Rear end lube doesn't keep them lubricated.

the bearings that came off it and the ones I bought from the parts store are the sealed type, not the type you pack.

 

[toolmanmike]

the bearings that came off it and the ones I bought from the parts store are the sealed type, not the type you pack.

I didn't know Duralast had a Green bearing available. Like these? Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60

 

[Odin]

I didn't know Duralast had a Green bearing available. Like these? Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60

yep, I had a choice of one packable (part SET7) or one sealed (part RWF34R)

 

[toolmanmike]

yep, I had a choice of one packable (part SET7) or one sealed (part RWF34R)

I don't have a good feeling about those. I don't see the flange and gasket. It looks like a replacement bearing and retainer only.

 

[Odin]

I don't have a good feeling about those. I don't see the flange and gasket. It looks like a replacement bearing and retainer only.

Everything but three of four flange gaskets was in place upon disassembly and otherwise matched the image in the service manual. I just spoke to a friend who rebuilds rear axles and transmissions. He is ordering Timken bearings and seals (also made in China but better than Duralast) and I ordered the four new flange gaskets. He says we can use these axles for this application with no worries since it is not a daily driven high HP car putting lots of stress on the tiny 7.25 rear axle system...

 

[RustyRatRod]

Nothing rides on that part of the axle. I see nothing wrong, but if it was mine, I'd hit the area with some emery cloth and mineral spirits and polish it out some. It's probably been like that since it was born. As for the bearings, I would at least get either National or Timken brand.

 

[Odin]

Nothing rides on that part of the axle. I see nothing wrong, but if it was mine, I'd hit the area with some emery cloth and mineral spirits and polish it out some. It's probably been like that since it was born. As for the bearings, I would at least get either National or Timken brand.

I didn't want to hit it too much with emery cloth for fear of making it too much smaller and having the bearing spin. I ordered the Timken bearings and seals and FelPro gaskets.

 

[Odin]

Thank you guys for chiming in with ideas and advice. I will let you know how it goes once I get it back together.

 

[Murray]

For extra peace of mind, I would stake the bearing area. Clean the seal area's well.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I didn't want to hit it too much with emery cloth for fear of making it too much smaller and having the bearing spin. I ordered the Timken bearings and seals and FelPro gaskets.

It'll be fine as long as you just concentrate the polishing in the area of the imperfection. Just don't polish where the bearing and lock ring press on and you'll be fine.

 

[Odin]

For extra peace of mind, I would stake the bearing area. Clean the seal area's well.

thanks, I will

 

[cudamark]

As long as the booger isn't on a sealing surface you are good. Why replace the bearings? Remember, those get packed with grease like the front ones do. Rear end lube doesn't keep them lubricated.

A 7 1/4 uses sealed ball bearings, not tapered roller bearings like an 8 3/4.

 

[cudamark]

I didn't want to hit it too much with emery cloth for fear of making it too much smaller and having the bearing spin. I ordered the Timken bearings and seals and FelPro gaskets.

As long as it takes a bit of effort to press the bearing on the axle shaft, it will be fine. If it doesn't take much effort, but, the bearing still fits snug on the shaft, you can tack the lock ring on the axle shaft as Murray mentioned.

 

[toolmanmike]

A 7 1/4 uses sealed ball bearings, not tapered roller bearings like an 8 3/4.

I didn't look close enough at the first photos. I read later on it was a 7 1/4. I should know better than to comment on something I have never owned or worked on. My bad.

 

[Odin]

As long as it takes a bit of effort to press the bearing on the axle shaft, it will be fine. If it doesn't take much effort, but, the bearing still fits snug on the shaft, you can tack the lock ring on the axle shaft as Murray mentioned.

My friend called me last night saying he cleaned them up and pressed on Timken bearings and collars. There was still plenty of tension on the bearing that it should not slip or spin at all. I will go pick them up today and hopefully get them installed within the next few days.

I received the flange gaskets yesterday. I see there should be one between the axle housing and hub backing plate and another behind the axle retaining plate. I can easily install the one behind the retainer, but I cannot pull the backing plate far enough away from the housing to insert the gasket over the four retainer studs. I tapped on the studs to see if they would back out a bit to make more room, but they are either pressed in well or seized in place. I don't want to remove the brake line or damage the retainer studs. This particular gasket was not installed on either side when I disassembled things. Is it a crucial one in your experience or can it safely be skipped?

 

[cudamark]

If you unbolt the housing breather that holds the brake line junction, and unclip the hard lines off the axle tubes, you can usually get enough slack to slide the backing plates off without taking a brake line loose.

 

[Odin]

If you unbolt the housing breather that holds the brake line junction, and unclip the hard lines off the axle tubes, you can usually get enough slack to slide the backing plates off without taking a brake line loose.

Thanks. Everything is installed again. Waiting to finish blasting the wheels and repaint them then I’ll get new tires and be on the road again.