Replacing Fuel Sender......

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LJS30

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What kind of issues may I be dealing with when pulling my tank off and replacing the fuel sender in my 74 Dart? I know there are two sizes of senders, so I have that covered. However, any tips, little tricks to make sure things go well? Thanks.
 
You shouldn't have to drop the tank to change that.......If you are gonna drop the tank get new straps or at least the J-bolts unless they are in good condition. Also I'd upgrade the straw to the 3/8" pick-up while you are in there and buying a new sender. Get a new sender, gasket and lock ring and a new ground strap. A nice dull chisel or wide punch or think flat head screw driver works best for whacking the lock ring.
 
Dusterb318 said:
You shouldn't have to drop the tank to change that.......If you are gonna drop the tank get new straps or at least the J-bolts unless they are in good condition. Also I'd upgrade the straw to the 3/8" pick-up while you are in there and buying a new sender. Get a new sender, gasket and lock ring and a new ground strap. A nice dull chisel or wide punch or think flat head screw driver works best for whacking the lock ring.
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Also..an idea is to ensure your gas is below the opening...it helps, and use a brass punch if ya got one. (they don't spark)
 
Dusterb318 said:
You shouldn't have to drop the tank to change that.......If you are gonna drop the tank get new straps or at least the J-bolts unless they are in good condition. Also I'd upgrade the straw to the 3/8" pick-up while you are in there and buying a new sender. Get a new sender, gasket and lock ring and a new ground strap. A nice dull chisel or wide punch or think flat head screw driver works best for whacking the lock ring.
Click to expand...

Now that would be great if I can leave the tank on the vehicle!!!!! I always thought the sender/float was in a very inaccessible location.
 
They are on the front of the tank you might have to jack up the rear of the car and put stands on the frame so the suspension drops and the rear end drops out of the way but you should be able to get it out without dropping the tank.....IIRC. I have a fuel cell in my car and haven't messed with a stock tank in a long time so I might be mistaken.
 
Dusterb318 said:
You shouldn't have to drop the tank to change that.......If you are gonna drop the tank get new straps or at least the J-bolts unless they are in good condition. Also I'd upgrade the straw to the 3/8" pick-up while you are in there and buying a new sender. Get a new sender, gasket and lock ring and a new ground strap. A nice dull chisel or wide punch or think flat head screw driver works best for whacking the lock ring.
Click to expand...

I'm going to be doing the same thing soon, do you guys know a good place to buy a new sender, gasket, lock ring, ground strap, and straps for the tank?
 
ThogtheCaveman said:
I'm going to be doing the same thing soon, do you guys know a good place to buy a new sender, gasket, lock ring, ground strap, and straps for the tank?
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You can get the senders through your local Dodge dealer and it'll be cheaper than Year One. I found out the hard way.
 
I did the sender replacement this past spring on my 63 dart and I did not drop the tank. Actually once you get the car raised and all the tools needed it goes pretty quick. I upgraded to the 3/8 since I was initially going to run a electric pump and regulator. Well, after putting in all new steel braided line and electric pump with a remote regulator I just could not live with the noise from the pump.(it was a red holley) I ended up switching out to a mechanical high volume carter. The only thing I did wrong during installation was not lining up the little notched areas and had a small leak on the sender seal. Just pay attention to the little notches and make sure the sender is lined up on them correctly and you should be fine. Also I remember I had to reuse my old lock ring because the new one didn't have the same size slopes on the locking portion to draw it up tight. That was just my case and may not be an issue for you at all. I got my sender kit from EBAY.
 
LJS30 said:
What kind of issues may I be dealing with when pulling my tank off and replacing the fuel sender in my 74 Dart? I know there are two sizes of senders, so I have that covered. However, any tips, little tricks to make sure things go well? Thanks.
Click to expand...

As others have stated,
Jack the car up under the center section of the rear end.
Put jack stands under the rear frame rails,and lower the jack.
Crawl/roll under and take a look.

I take off the ground strap first.
Then take a razor blade and cut the 4" rubber hose off.
As 69signet said a brass punch is the correct tool to use.I have had success with channel locks.
Pop the old one out,put the new one in.
Put a new piece of fuel line in.5/16" or 3/8" depending on what sender you have.
If your ground strap is still good you can use it.I usually wire wheel mine for a good ground.Put it back on.
Done !!!!!!!!

PS: Make sure your take is 1/2 empty.
 
ooooo im having a problem with mine i think its that or the gauge i filled the tank up and the gauge is only marking almost full like 1/4 before the F
 
I see no real need to upgrade to the 3/8 senders on our street cars. My father has a ground pounding 440 stroker pushing 550HP in his 67 Satellite that he drives on the street and he still uses the stock 5/16" sender and fuel lines. Never in his life has he "starved" his engine for fuel. And he runs his car pretty hard chompin' at those pesky 5.0 stangs! yes he whoops there @ss but you did not even need to ask seeing he drives a mopar...LOL Stick with the 5/16 and you will be just fine! :cheers: Im sure others will chime in with the same experience as I have stated.
 
Where do I get the gasket? I just dropped the 1968 300 gas tank and put a B body one under it. Just because the C body one leaked when full. The B body one is from a '68 Roadrunner, and it fit fine, but it leaks badly from the sender. Is it possible the C body sender is the wrong size for a B body tank? I need a new rubber gasket, or maybe I can use a gas proof gasket maker material? Some of the RTVs claim they are gas resistant. I'd rather have a new rubber gasket though.
Mike
 
also put a little ky jelly on the o ring before tightening the retainer. helps to keep the o ring from twisting
 
I have to do this soon on the Duster. Thanks for the info.
Napa has the sending units also.
 
Does the sedning unit come with a gasket? I might just buy one. My original intention was to just make my 300 a long distance driver, and I didn't really care if the gas gauge was accurate, but I might just put a B body unit in there if I can get the rubber o-ring thing, and solve the leak.
By the way, I'm sorry about high-jacking this thread, I realize this wasn't my topic. It's exactly what I was going to talk about though.
Mike
 
I've found a site. RPM restoration parts. They've got everything for the fuel system.
I'm getting the rubber gasket for $2. Check them out.
 
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