Replacing Ignition Switch in 73 Duster

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The old switch and the lock cylinder should have been removed in the on position and re assembled the same way. If you get a cog wrong you get your results. Keep in mind that I'm speaking general practice that applies t Ford, GM, all. I can't say for sure a mopar can be assembled a cog wrong but sure sounds like it.
As for the 6 fuse, I dont have a clue . sorry
 
Ok, I will take it out, put them both in ON and re-assemble, see if that helps. It didn't look like it could be a cog off but it seems possible given the symptoms.
 
I took the switch out, disconnected it, and put it back in with it and the lock cylinder in ON. Same symptoms. When I turn the key to ON the starter cranks. From looking at the ammeter I can tell that a bit more current is being drawn in START than ON but just a tiny amount. Is there a possibility that I burned out this ignition switch too when I tried to start without the fuse in there, and without that little plastic piece? I'm still assuming that is the key-in buzzer?

There are no cogs on the lock cylinder aka there is only one way they can fit together, so that's not the problem.
 
The end of the switch lever can only fit into the lock cylinder one way, so I doubt that's your problem.

Is there any chance someone has monkey'd with the wiring downstream of the switch connector? I'd inspect the harness from the switch connector to the starter relay and look for homemade splices.

I'd also want to make sure someone hadn't moved wires from one connector cavity to another for some bizarre reason. You'd need a wiring diagram with color codes to verify that.

http://70duster440.com/DashHarness70 Page 2 and 3.PDF
 
I'll check for splices down the road.

History is, it ran fine, i pulled the heater core and changed the wire from battery to starter, and then it wouldn't start, and the number six fuse blew every time the car was turned on. Changed starter relay, still nothing, determined it was before the relay, so I put in this new switch.

I think I'm going to check to see if it has spark when cranking in the ON posotion. If it does not in ON but does in START, it seems like somehow the start and one of the ignition wires are reversed?


By the way thanks much for the link. much better diagram than the one in my Haynes 71-89 RWD manual.
 
I can fix or even diagnose all of them from here. :(
After reading the history of your troubles here's what I guess,
In removing heater core you created the fuse blowing problem.
In replacing the relay and /or that battery cable, you now have wire terminals touching one another which would cause constant crank.
Strictly guess work though. All I got left for you is my best wishes
 
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