Replacing my distributor first time

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Set the timing tonight. Runs really well at 16 degrees intial at 800rpm with 19.5 vacuum. Trailbeast's distributor has the mechanical all in at 34 degrees at 2,500 with 24Hg of vacuum. It's 33 degrees at 2,000 so it's a pretty quick curve. When I connected the vacuum advance it's total vacuum is 54 at 2,000 (doesn't change from there to 3,000). The car has some snap to it now!
 
What do you guys mean by The term "clocked" does it have anything to do with finding TDC? My overall understanding with these post to my original guestion is find TDC, Mark the wiring so it matches up with new dizzy and then remove old dizzy and install new one. Then match the wires up and set timing...done. Am I missing something here.
 
Distributor"clocking" refers to the relationship between the position the rotor points to the position of the slot at the bottom of the distributor shaft. Not all aftermarket distributors are "clocked" like the original. So, you could end up with the rotor pointing a different direction. Someone posted a picture showing the difference.
 
66fyssh said:
Distributor"clocking" refers to the relationship between the position the rotor points to the position of the slot at the bottom of the distributor shaft. Not all aftermarket distributors are "clocked" like the original. So, you could end up with the rotor pointing a different direction. Someone posted a picture showing the difference.
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Oh, that makes since. Is that easy to do? Do I just clock the new dizzy to match the old one by turning the shaft to match the relation to the #1/rotor position on the old one or something?
 
14u2nv said:
Oh, that makes since. Is that easy to do? Do I just clock the new dizzy to match the old one by turning the shaft to match the relation to the #1/rotor position on the old one or something?
Click to expand...

Yes, it could be that simple. Check out post #24 in this thread.
 
14u2nv said:
Oh, that makes since. Is that easy to do? Do I just clock the new dizzy to match the old one by turning the shaft to match the relation to the #1/rotor position on the old one or something?
Click to expand...

Hopefully the one you bought will be "clocked" the same as the one you take out. I think most are the same and its just a remove and replace. Its safer to set your engine to Top Dead Center before pulling your old distributor, then when you sit the new one down, it should either sit down at #1 or #6 plug wire. If it doesn't point to either #1 or #6 then come back and let us know!!!

There are a couple of ways to find TDC. Search the threads for top dead center. I use a piston stop, but you can also use your finger over the #1 plug hold and feel for compression while turning over by hand.
 
66fyssh said:
Hopefully the one you bought will be "clocked" the same as the one you take out. I think most are the same and its just a remove and replace. Its safer to set your engine to Top Dead Center before pulling your old distributor, then when you sit the new one down, it should either sit down at #1 or #6 plug wire. If it doesn't point to either #1 or #6 then come back and let us know!!!

There are a couple of ways to find TDC. Search the threads for top dead center. I use a piston stop, but you can also use your finger over the #1 plug hold and feel for compression while turning over by hand.
Click to expand...
ok will do thanks
 
So I have not started this project yet but will keep you all posted. Just realized that my dizzy is not vacuumed assisted. No canister on it. Napa was the only parts story that asked me to check because it could be either. Every where I have looked up a dizzy for this truck either online or calling a parts store I'm always shown or offered a vacuum assisted one.
 
Still confused of why there is two options for a distributor with or without vacuum assist for the same year make and model with the exact same 318 efi engine. Wonder if it has something to do with the fact that my RamCharger's VIN shows it was made in MEXICO.
 
Here's a bump for you.

Got me on this one. Maybe it was a mid-year change over to an updated ignition control module????
 
14u2nv said:
Oh, that makes since. Is that easy to do? Do I just clock the new dizzy to match the old one by turning the shaft to match the relation to the #1/rotor position on the old one or something?
Click to expand...

The best thing to do is to put the engine to TDC before removing the old distributor...

Pull the cap on the distributor and note where the rotor is pointing (a picture will do nice here)...

Then pull the old distributor out of the engine and DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER...

Install the new distributor so the slot goes in the gear in the block and set the rotor to point to where the old one was when removed, if that doesn't have the same relationship (clocking) of the slot in the shaft to the rotor position, then put the distributor in so the slot lines up with the gear in the block...

Then put the rotor on the distributor and see where it's pointing when at TDC.. Now make this position on the distributor cap the one that gets the spark plug for #1 cylinder... Then follow the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 around the cap in the direction of rotor rotation... Now you will be firing in the proper order, now adjust the distributor timing on the vibration balancer...

If both of your distributors have the same clocking of the shaft to the rotor, then you can just drop the new one in and verify #1 spark plug position and firing order and go...

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The procedure for this is to find TDC and set the #1 spark plug wire to that position on the distributor cap slot. Then follow the firing order around the distributor cap for the rest of the wires.
 
Sorry cant help with the vac can issue. The pics 65val posted of the 2 different " clocked" distributors were 2 of mine. One from 273 and one from 360. The difference between the 2 distributors equaled me moving plug wires ahead one post on the cap.
For example 18436572 was now 84365721.
Personal preference but I have/had no desire to move the gear unless absolutely have to.
 
I found an alternative way to check for TDC....

TDC.jpg
 
14u2nv said:
View attachment 1715069705
Well guys I appreciate all your advice and I think I will be fine getting it swapped out. I'm trying to go through all the simple components to this engine and see if I can increase the HP a little without major rebuild or engine swap. Had a 318 in a 74' duster once and it had decent power for the size vehicle but what a joke putting a 170hp 318 tbi. in a 5,500 lb. RamCharger. Gets worst gas mpg on the interstate cause I have to keep the pedal to the floor to keep it at 60 on any slight hills. It is lifted with 35's but I don't believe for a second that is that major of an issue. I've had several lifted trucks with stock power and it changed the passing power etc. half as much as this 318. I'm going to search this forum for easy 318 hp increase ideas.
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no comment on the dizzy install - - but HEY - NICE TRUCK!!!! :thumbsup:
 
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