Spray some Kroil on the drain plugs and let it sit for a day
Replacing my Intake Manifold Question
- Thread starter 340inabbody
- Start date
-
mygasser
Well-Known Member
the only difference pulling the bottom hose makes vs draining at the radiator tap is speed. oh and mess, lol. the end coolant level in the motor will be the same. so fast drain but longer clean up time or slow drain and little to no clean up time. your choice.
neil.
Well vacuuming at the thermostat did a great job. Was hoping to find a roller cam and lifter set up but no such luck.
What do you guys use to cover the lifter valley while I clean the intake gasket area to keep all the junk out?
@340inabbody, if/when you are able to get the block drain plugs out I suggest you replace them with petcocks like your radiator drain. This would be a one-time deal and make it so much easier for future engine block drain needs.
Nice heavy duty pushrods and someone spent some time on that block deburing the center drain back holes.
Thanks for the input! I don’t see enough of this stuff to notice that level of detail. I am trying to learn as much as I can.
Here are some up close shots of the lifters Nd cam. I didn’t notice much wear from these untrained eyes.
Looks like adjustable rockers? Pushrods are ball/cup. A further back shot would help id stuff. Take out pushrods and lay cloth/rags down. Keep pushrods and lifters in order/numbered.
I am not disassembling the motor, just replacing the intake manifold. So I wasn’t planning to remove the anything. Here is a few other shots.
Yep adjustable rockers(good thing!)
You don't have to remove prods/lifters for cleaning, it may make it easier.
While vc's are off, should chk valve lash.
You don't have to remove prods/lifters for cleaning, it may make it easier.
While vc's are off, should chk valve lash.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
paper towels. i have a GIANT roll of the heavy blue towels (thanks U-line!) and they work great. i lay those down in the valley and then lightly stuff the ports so nothing drops in there.
vacuum while you're pulling everything up and taking the towels out of the ports so nothing jumps in anywhere that it's not supposed to be.
work diligently and delicately and you should be fine.
Your engine looks great inside, congrats.
use newspaper in the valley to catch the foreign material. Then take the sides in to center and all the scrapings are in the paper, quick and easy.
Vacuuming out the thermostat was not necessary, just drain the radiator was enough to not spill any coolant in the engine.
use newspaper in the valley to catch the foreign material. Then take the sides in to center and all the scrapings are in the paper, quick and easy.
Vacuuming out the thermostat was not necessary, just drain the radiator was enough to not spill any coolant in the engine.
lemondana
BlackDart
Noticed some of the rockers are stock 273 with no lock nut and others have the locknut, such as the old Cranes.
Oh boy fresh!
So after test fitting I noticed the new manifold is not drilled for the alignment pins in the block fore and aft. What are your suggestions? Looks like I can “try” to drill out the pin holes in the manifold (which will be hard to precisely locate) or remove the pins (which I assume I would have to chisel out). Neither are great imo.
Ok After I inserted the picture I noticed its a roll pin. Should be easier to remove.
I probably missed it but what intake are you using. Leave your rags in the valley and carefully work that back and forth with vice grips.
Air Gap knock off.
If you feel capable gasket match it to your heads.
I get my gaskets later this afternoon. I’ll look at all the matches.
The pins broke during extraction. I surface ground them no big deal.
So my first test fitting went well. All the bolt holes line up perfectly without the gaskets (which I am waiting on). How much off will the holes be with the gaskets in I am wondering. The manifold I would think be raised the thickness of the gasket right? Would the design stack up have factored this in?
-
