Replacing whole fuel kit?

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Expire

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Just a couple questions on the "kit" for fuel in the '74 Gold Dusters /6. My Fuel Sending Unit was shot from when I bought it, I believe a wire was snipped and just generaly trashed. Tank was leaking and straps had to get cut to be removed, so with that said, I'm building a shopping list and want to make sure I have everything I will need.

1974 Duster Fuel Kit
1. Fuel tank Mine was one with the filler hole on the left, drivers side.
2. Fuel Tank Straps
3. Fuel Sending Unit*
4. Fuel Pump/Fuel Pump Gasket
5. Fuel Filter Will just buy from local Autozone, NAPA, etc..

Am I missing anything? I plan on going V8 swap later on, so I believe I will need a different FSU/Fuel pump, later on. But for now just to get a good Fuel set up, is this everything I need to replace my existing fuel set up? I still have the gooseneck and cap.

* Need Help Picking These Parts Out

Fuel Sending Unit - Not sure which one will fit, there are a couple options. The tank says the size is 29-3/4 x 19-1/4 x 10-3/8. Does that mean the FSU has to be made for a 3/8 hole? Also, the "Lock ring kit" that is included in the tank purchase, is that the same as the "FSU Lock ring"? Some FSUs have Fuel Return, is this needed, or is it just an option?

As always, you guys are super helpful. Thanks for the help!
 
Stock replacement tank or a hot rod city unit. (I have one of these for sale 1/2 price)
fuel tank straps. You can make your own or buy replacement units.
fuel sending unit for stock tank with 1/2" line. or #10 AN line bung.
fuel pump can be stock mechanical or swap to an electric. I like the Aeromotive A1000. I would run a filter pre and pump pump if you go electric.
 
Stock replacement tank or a hot rod city unit. (I have one of these for sale 1/2 price)
fuel tank straps. You can make your own or buy replacement units.
fuel sending unit for stock tank with 1/2" line. or #10 AN line bung.
fuel pump can be stock mechanical or swap to an electric. I like the Aeromotive A1000. I would run a filter pre and pump pump if you go electric.

Good stuff, thanks for the help!

As far as things I linked, will they include everything I need to have a working tank set up? Will most likely keep it mechanical right now.

Also, shipping quote to 15068 for the tank?
 
Stock replacement tank or a hot rod city unit. (I have one of these for sale 1/2 price)
fuel tank straps. You can make your own or buy replacement units.
fuel sending unit for stock tank with 1/2" line. or #10 AN line bung.
fuel pump can be stock mechanical or swap to an electric. I like the Aeromotive A1000. I would run a filter pre and pump pump if you go electric.

1/2" line?
Gees he's didn't say anything about 10,000HP :D
 
He said switching to a V8. Why play around with what might be enough? If you are starting from scratch just go #8. Most of the aeromotive system require it.

My system that aero set me up with runs 5/8" (# 10) inlet and 1/2" (# 8 ) return. I don't make 10,000hp. But close....
 
Sending unit ground strap so the gauge works.

Are you mostly restoring or hot rodding? Vans Auto has good prices on fuel parts.

Good question, right now, I'm looking at a restore the car to a "driver's condition" so I'm not kicking myself in the teeth if I change something out that isn't concourse. I'd like it to look stock.
 
He said switching to a V8. Why play around with what might be enough? If you are starting from scratch just go #8. Most of the aeromotive system require it.

My system that aero set me up with runs 5/8" (# 10) inlet and 1/2" (# 8 ) return. I don't make 10,000hp. But close....

A person could throw a cat down through that. :D
I guess if a guy had big motor plans for the future, then why not?
 
In my opinion, a 1/2" system for anything less than say, 5-600 hp is a huge waste of money. There are far different, cheaper options for pumps than aeromotive.

the vast majority of these girls were 5/16.
 
A person could throw a cat down through that. :D
I guess if a guy had big motor plans for the future, then why not?


In my opinion, a 1/2" system for anything less than say, 5-600 hp is a huge waste of money. There are far different, cheaper options for pumps than aeromotive.

the vast majority of these girls were 5/16.

Thanks for the insight, I know I mentioned V8 swap, but I'm in no position to be an "engine builder" so I'm expecting far less than 5-600 HP. Maybe 400 if I can figure it out along the way, this whole car is a learning experience. lol
 
Thanks for the insight, I know I mentioned V8 swap, but I'm in no position to be an "engine builder" so I'm expecting far less than 5-600 HP. Maybe 400 if I can figure it out along the way, this whole car is a learning experience. lol

In that case I would have to agree with Del on it, and also think there are better things you could spend your money on.

It would be nice if we all had the money to buy and/or build whatever we want when we want but a lot of us have priorities to deal with.

Maybe just do it like stock but with larger line. (like 3/8)
That would give you decent volume for any engine under 5-600 hp with hardly any added expense and if you needed more later then a different pump (later) could do it just fine.
 
A person could throw a cat down through that. :D
I guess if a guy had big motor plans for the future, then why not?

In that case I would have to agree with Del on it, and also think there are better things you could spend your money on.

It would be nice if we all had the money to buy and/or build whatever we want when we want but a lot of us have priorities to deal with.

Maybe just do it like stock but with larger line. (like 3/8)
That would give you decent volume for any engine under 5-600 hp with hardly any added expense and if you needed more later then a different pump (later) could do it just fine.

That's pretty much what I was looking to do was replace stock, I wasn't really planning for the V8 swap (at this time).
 
You may want to consider replacing the filler tube grommet. Mine was starting to split. My tank did not come with one. No need to take it apart again later just to replace it.
 
You may want to consider replacing the filler tube grommet. Mine was starting to split. My tank did not come with one. No need to take it apart again later just to replace it.

Are you speaking of the large black washer/rubber seal where the gooseneck connects to the tank?
 
In my opinion, a 1/2" system for anything less than say, 5-600 hp is a huge waste of money.

Maybe just do it like stock but with larger line. (like 3/8)


How is it a waste of money if he's buying new line? Please explain to me how much cheaper 3/8" line is vs. 1/2" line?

Prebent stainless 3/8" line is 118$. Prebent 1/2" line is 118$.

AN #6 vs. AN #8 is 10$ per roll.
 
First, YOU are the one who is talking no8, no 10 AN, not me. I didn't even mention the 'S' word. A new OEM quality STEEL 3/8 line is dirt cheap compared to anything AN or stainless. I think you'll find that AN fittings prices escalate dramatically between 6, 8, and 10

I think the OP has made it pretty clear that he's not building a huge monster. Comon, keep it in perspective, eh?

1/2 tube is much more difficult to work with than 3/8, especially stainless vs steel. I just don't see it. Sorry. And finally, I doubt from the way the OP describes,...........doubt he will ever need anything larger than 5/16!!
 
First, YOU are the one who is talking no8, no 10 AN, not me. I didn't even mention the 'S' word. A new OEM quality STEEL 3/8 line is dirt cheap compared to anything AN or stainless. I think you'll find that AN fittings prices escalate dramatically between 6, 8, and 10

I think the OP has made it pretty clear that he's not building a huge monster. Comon, keep it in perspective, eh?

1/2 tube is much more difficult to work with than 3/8, especially stainless vs steel. I just don't see it. Sorry. And finally, I doubt from the way the OP describes,...........doubt he will ever need anything larger than 5/16!!

My thoughts exactly, right down to the 5/16 probably being sufficient forever.
 
First, YOU are the one who is talking no8, no 10 AN, not me. I didn't even mention the 'S' word. A new OEM quality STEEL 3/8 line is dirt cheap compared to anything AN or stainless. I think you'll find that AN fittings prices escalate dramatically between 6, 8, and 10

I think the OP has made it pretty clear that he's not building a huge monster. Comon, keep it in perspective, eh?

1/2 tube is much more difficult to work with than 3/8, especially stainless vs steel. I just don't see it. Sorry. And finally, I doubt from the way the OP describes,...........doubt he will ever need anything larger than 5/16!!

Unless I come into a ton of money and can run a pre built 500+ CI engine... I most likely won't need 1/2, 3/8 sounds pretty reasonable. 3/8 won't blow apart under a 440 either, would it?
 
No problems on the 440, and you may be able to get 3/8" into the stock clips under the car. No way with 1/2". Besides, the line into the tank will still be 5/16". If you go to the 3/8" line, then buy a 5/16" to 3/8" adapter to go at the tank to transition the hose sizes. You may have to buy a 3/8" hose fitting into the fuel pump too.

If you are changing out the line, the clips under the car may need replacing. You can probably get them from Inline Tube (or maybe Van's) as kits for your specific car. Check the ones under first to see if they are rusted badly.
 
If you go 3/8" you can buy a 3/8 sending unit for a factory tank.
 
If you go 3/8" you can buy a 3/8 sending unit for a factory tank.

Well I've been dealing with another member who is selling me his tank/fuel kit which, iirc, has a 3/8th sending unit. This will probably be the option I go with.

Thanks a ton guys!
 
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