ressurecting a sleeping beast..need help/advice

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hotrod413

big block
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so Ive been eyeballing this dart for a few years..its been sitting with no carb....

my question is.....how can I tell if animals, or trash has gotten in the intake WITHOUT pulling the intake off...would a good vacuum pull most of it out??

The motor supposedly runs, but smoked....would it do too much harm firing it up if there is "some" debris in the runners?? (newbie question I know, but if it can drive the 1/2 mile to my house, that saves the $100 tow bill)

My plans are to get the car, clear the runners "if needed" throw a carb on, change the fluids, and flush the gas tank, and see where I'm at:scratch::-k

anything else anybody can think of?? things to do before the first fire??

who sells ignitions?? The owner lost the title and keys (already ran the numbers, it IS in his name)

Do I have to take the steering wheel off to change the cylinder?? I know I had to on my 5th ave...not sure if this is the same....
 
If it has a carb on it? Should not be much except water, and THAT can be a problem. A REAL problem

so where was it? Was it uncovered? No carb? Could it have gotten water, etc insideZ?

If so, you REALLY need to START by pulling the intake, and if the runners show evidences of rust/ debri/ garbage THEN you need to continue and pull the heads, too.

However, if it's got a carb on, and was not exposed to water, there's probably nothing down there. In that case, I'd pull all the plugs, leave them out, squirt a generous amount of motor oil in the cylinders, and turn it over some.

At the same time, pull the oil sender and see if it pumps oil. As soon as you confirm that, drain and change the oil. Watch this carefully that it recovers oil pressure after the change. I would NOT change the filter at this point, due to priming problems. After (if) you get it running for a few hours, THEN I'd think about changing the filter and the oil again.

Don't trust any gas in the tank, and don't trust the antifreeze.
 
its sat with the carb off, but the engine is installed in the car with the hood shut. It is stored outside, in rain/snow...Im worried about the moisture in the air though...

if I were to put a carb on it, I would have a can or jar of gas in the engine bay to run off of untill I can drop and flush the tank...

next question...anyone have a cheap carb and alternator they would otherwise throw away???
 
From what you describe AT MINIMUM I would yank the intake
 
do you have a friend with a trailer?
do the tires hold air?

a friend with a tow chain and a car/truck?

I don't know anybody up here that has a truck..I just moved up here permanently..before, I was just visiting..

not sure on the tires lol...I couldn't tell...before it was in the weeds, now its under snow....I'm going there monday/teusday...gonna try and stick a mirror into the intake with a flashlight to see if theres anything in there...I don't think so, since he has dogs who are avid hunters, and no living creature has set foot in that yard for a few years :toothy10:

and yes I do plan on yanking the tank, and flushing it out...I used CLR on my d100, but maybe this one needs to be boiled out??? Do these tanks have rubber liners???
 
Pull the intake for sure, the carbs off already, so its nuthin to pull the intake. If its been sitting for a while you may want to replace a few gaskets so buy a complete set, or just the intake gaskets and be sure!
 
You could go to a plumber. They now have a small video camera that they use on pipes to look inside. Should work on a intake. Most small items will blow through when the engine runs BUT Larger item may not and when they burn up inside they change to carbon and that will cause heavy wear.
 
What would you loose taking a flashlight and a miror and looking in the runners as far as you can see. If you see no signs of dirt, rust or debris I might try firing it up.

On the other hand, if you found a lot of dirt in it, I would do as the others suggested and pull the intake.
 
pull intake and plugs in plug holes spray wd-40 in each one leave plugs out and put car in gear 4th or drive rock car back and forth see if motor is locked. If not you could bend a valve or brake rings when trying too start the car then you should be okay.
I have saved mean motors that way had one that had set for 8 years did what i told you and bang she is still running with no rebuild just new upper gaskets .
Good luck with the car
 
pull intake and plugs in plug holes spray wd-40 in each one leave plugs out and put car in gear 4th or drive rock car back and forth see if motor is locked. If not you could bend a valve or brake rings when trying too start the car then you should be okay.
I have saved mean motors that way had one that had set for 8 years did what i told you and bang she is still running with no rebuild just new upper gaskets .
Good luck with the car



that sounds promising....I'm tracking down a carb for it right now...I know of a $20 one but it probably needs rebuilt........

it might be worth it to pull the intake off..its under a LOT of snow right now...reminds me of changing a waterpump in a FWD lesabre in a parking lot with only pliers and a crescent wrench :D (40K miles later, she is still running great)

but I digress....I'm gonna go for it. if nothing else there is a 69 225 for $100 by me..its supposed to be a runner (still in the car, so can hear it run)
 
I'd pull the plugs and use compressed air to blow back through the intake by finding one with the intake valve open. If you see any new debris coming out the carb opening, remove it and inspect the debris to see what it is. If it's nothing large or hard, I'd rotate the engine by hand and see if there are other runners with debris in them and do the same thing. If the engine won' turn over by hand, squirt some oil in each cylinder and try again. Once you've removed what you can, crank it over with the starter until the oil light goes out (or pressure comes up on the gauge). Put the plugs back in, throw on a carb, fill it with gas from a primer can, check the fluids, and fire it up. If it's a smoker, you're not going to hurt anything as you'll be taking it apart anyway. You just want to get it to your house to do the serious work. Use a small gas can under the hood for the fuel supply so you don't have to worry about the gas tank and lines at this point. Just run a hose out of the gas can and into the inlet of the fuel pump. Secure the gas can off to the side and away from heat or spark. If there is no room under the hood, set it on the front bumper and bungie it to the grille. Unless the engine oil is particularly dirty or thin, I'd leave it in there. No point in changing it now just to drain it out during the rebuild a 1/2 mile later. Make sure you have brakes before you take off!
 
havent had a chance to go over there yet...I have to go back to california for a couple of months....

I'll still be around on the board though :D
 
I agree with most everything cudamark posted but sitting outside for years with no carburetor/air cleaner mounted to keep moisture out something is bound to be stuck or rusted shut. Pull the plugs, squirt ATF in the cylinders and down the intake passages as well. Screw the plugs back in and tape off the carb mounting pad with duct tape. Come back a few days or a week or so later to pull the plugs and re-squirt AFT in the cylinders, then stick the plugs back in again. After letting it soak a while longer, pull the plugs again and with a socket/breaker bar on the damper bolt attempt to rock the motor free. I've actually hooked up a hot battery at this point and bumped the starter to break one free, but it had a carburetor and air cleaner on it and had had the hood closed the whole time (7 years) it had sat. Once it's free, take the tape off the intake and spin it over before you put the plugs back in to get the oil pressure up.

In my cash strapped youth, with only 1/2 mile between the car and home, I think I'd have found a tow strap and a helper. Then after making sure it had aired up rollers on each corner and at least some semblance of brakes, I'd have just yanked it home to work on it. I'm still cash strapped, but these days it would be my pickup, trailer, and wench getting it home.
 
I picked up a 1966 225/6 this past weekend that had been sitting outsided for the past two years or so. Fortunately it has the carb and air cleaner still on it. I'll be using all of the aforementioned tricks to make sure she's not stuck either this evening or tomorrow, depends on when the wife will give me a 'kitchen pass'....

Wayne
Austin, TX
 
I picked up a 1966 225/6 this past weekend that had been sitting outsided for the past two years or so. Fortunately it has the carb and air cleaner still on it. I'll be using all of the aforementioned tricks to make sure she's not stuck either this evening or tomorrow, depends on when the wife will give me a 'kitchen pass'....

Wayne
Austin, TX
That's no guarantee that water didn't get inside. It can migrate right down the air cleaner stud and completely fill an engine.
 
If the price is right, who cares IT CAN BE REBUILT get it and start making it work ;)
 
if you have something with a hitch you can always rent a tow bar, 1/2 mile isint that far....even if its flat ground you could probly push it if you have to.
 
so Ive been eyeballing this dart for a few years..its been sitting with no carb....

my question is.....how can I tell if animals, or trash has gotten in the intake WITHOUT pulling the intake off...would a good vacuum pull most of it out??
Probably not. I know that it won't remove "dirt dobber" or wasp nests. X2 on recommendation to pull manifolds. With no carb, it should not be too difficult, except exhaust pipe.

The motor supposedly runs, but smoked....would it do too much harm firing it up if there is "some" debris in the runners?? (newbie question I know, but if it can drive the 1/2 mile to my house, that saves the $100 tow bill).
What will it cost you to rebuild and rebore the motor? How lucky do you feel? Pay now or later. The smoke may be from bad rings (re-build) or from bad valve seals (replace seals). I'd feel like an idiot if I were to screw the engine up because I was impatient.

anything else anybody can think of?? things to do before the first fire??....
Once you're ready to fire, take out plugs and squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil into each of the cylinders. Turn engine over by hand a few times, then install plugs, and attempt to start.

who sells ignitions?? The owner lost the title and keys (already ran the numbers, it IS in his name)....
Are you looking for a switch or the underhood stuff? State laws on lost titles are different. It happens enough that your state has a process. The PO may have to participate.

Do I have to take the steering wheel off to change the cylinder?? I know I had to on my 5th ave...not sure if this is the same....
If the ignition is in the column, yes.


RE: Keys
Besides the ignition, you'll need to consider the door, trunk, and glove box lock (if so equipped). Year One used to sell a complete kit that replaced all but the glove box lock.

You can open the trunk from the inside of the car if you have long arms and pliers or a very long, very fine pointed screw driver. A Snap-On dealer can make one to order. (I have one with a 24" long blade that does the trick.) To get at the lock, remove the rear seat and the divider panel. Locate the latch mechanism. Reach through the rear seat brace and force the head of the screwdriver into the slot where the blade from the lock protrudes and twist. There's usually a little slop that leaves room for the screwdriver blade. If you can reach with pliers, grab the blade from the lock and twist.
 
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