Retrofit hydraulic roller lifter

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Torrance1

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Hello everyone
I have a couple of projects going on at the same time.
One is my 74 Dart Swinger, the others are a 1956 Packard and a 62 stationwagon Have any of you done a retro fit Hydraulic roller?
I'm not concerned about the cam, but the lifter dimensions and the push rod length
Did you go with the link bar or dog bone style keepers?
and of course what brand lifter did you use.
Thanks
Best
 
You can only use link style lifters in a old motor. Unless your motor was set up for dog bone style. And your question suggests it's not set up for that. Yes you will need new pushrods too.
 
Torrance1 said:
Hello everyone
I have a couple of projects going on at the same time.
One is my 74 Dart Swinger, the others are a 1956 Packard and a 62 stationwagon Have any of you done a retro fit Hydraulic roller?
I'm not concerned about the cam, but the lifter dimensions and the push rod length
Did you go with the link bar or dog bone style keepers?
and of course what brand lifter did you use.
Thanks
Best
Click to expand...
RETROFIT hydraulic roller lifters
Run, run fast and hard away from RHRL's
Do some research on this forum regarding issues with RHRL's before you proceed.
Not worth the time and $
 
I was having oiling issues in my 408 with a retro fit hydraulic roller cam. Still haven’t figured it out, I’m just gone run it. For that reason, I would go solid flat tappet or solid roller next time.
 
In my understanding the HRL requires bushing the lifter bores in an LA engine. Trying to use the "retrofit" HRL's is like taking the easy way out of spending the money on bushing but to no avail. Retrofit HRL's don't work due to the chamfer in the lifter bore. $2000-2500 to do it the right way.
 
@mopardude318 whats the lift of your cam? Any roller Ill go with will be a solid. IDK if bushing the bores is mandatory but the link bar style must be the crimp style crossbar as the straights will hit an LA's oil galley castings. when all is said and done on a bushed LA block, you could probably have picked up a roller block.
 
thanks pishta.. I'll keep that in mind
I have not made any different plans for the engine yet
I could not find any real "info" on the net...
so I asked here.. go to the guys that know, and not the
ones who sell
best
 
So Cal pick-a-parts are still loaded with vans, jeep wagons and RAM trucks with 5.2/5.9 mags and all are rollers. LA heads can be made to be used on Mag blocks but the mag heads are better anyway...then its just a another complete motor...for rollers.
 
I'm not buying these, products that cheap can not be
that good, and I can not find any info on the company..
I will never buy Asian parts if I know what I am buying...
 
If wanting to run LA heads or aluminum LA style for more intake options some of the earlier Magnum blocks still had the oil galleys for LA heads. 92-95 for sure, possibly to 97-98 not sure on that tho.
 
pishta said:
@mopardude318 whats the lift of your cam? Any roller Ill go with will be a solid. IDK if bushing the bores is mandatory but the link bar style must be the crimp style crossbar as the straights will hit an LA's oil galley castings. when all is said and done on a bushed LA block, you could probably have picked up a roller block.
Click to expand...
It’s a Hughes hydraulic roller cam. .576/576 lift. 256/258 dur @ .050. I think a 112 CL. It does have the crimp style crossbar. The block I used is a ‘73 360.

from now on, I’ll only use the pre magnum LA roller cam block for a build. I currently have one being built at IMM for my little blower build. And another roller cam 360 sitting under my work bench for a later date. I’d like to pick up a roller 318 and do a max 318 build with solid roller, gear drive, trick flow heads or even W2’s. But I don’t know of anyone who’d spend the money on that build just to do it. I’m crazy enough.
 
Mopardude and you saying the ones I referenced
are made by Hugh's ?
Do you think they are any good?
I'm not looking to build a whole engine, just
some upgrades, and yes I know I need a
roller cam and new push rods.
 
mopardude318 said:
It’s a Hughes hydraulic roller cam. .576/576 lift. 256/258 dur @ .050. I think a 112 CL. It does have the crimp style crossbar. The block I used is a ‘73 360.

from now on, I’ll only use the pre magnum LA roller cam block for a build. I currently have one being built at IMM for my little blower build. And another roller cam 360 sitting under my work bench for a later date. I’d like to pick up a roller 318 and do a max 318 build with solid roller, gear drive, trick flow heads or even W2’s. But I don’t know of anyone who’d spend the money on that build just to do it. I’m crazy enough.
Click to expand...

I too have an engine going together at IMM. 340 hyd. roller engine.
@pishta LA’s should be bushed if the chamfers on the lifter bores are deep. Most bores are too deep on LA’s.
I suggest @Torrance1 call Brian.
 
@go-fish Glad you said that “IF” because it is t cut in stone that they are but certainly most are to low to handle the Hyd roller lifter. Sometimes I have seen only 1 or 2 to short, other times, all of them. You really need the lifters to know if that lifter you have will or won’t work.

Think of it this way, your probably going to need to do it. But if you don’t… yea has! Money saved! Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

IMO, be prepared to spend the money. Have the lifter bore corrected, resized, sleeved, bushed, or whatever it needs to be the best it can be for your build. Pricey? Probably. Worth having a mint set up that lasts for years?
Heck yea!
 
rumblefish360 said:
@go-fish Glad you said that “IF” because it is t cut in stone that they are but certainly most are to low to handle the Hyd roller lifter. Sometimes I have seen only 1 or 2 to short, other times, all of them. You really need the lifters to know if that lifter you have will or won’t work.

Think of it this way, your probably going to need to do it. But if you don’t… yea has! Money saved! Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

IMO, be prepared to spend the money. Have the lifter bore corrected, resized, sleeved, bushed, or whatever it needs to be the best it can be for your build. Pricey? Probably. Worth having a mint set up that lasts for years?
Heck yea!
Click to expand...

Agreed. It is a 2k to $2500 job in these parts. I know, Im paying the bill right now! LOL

It is heartbreaking to see 14 or 15 beautiful lifter bores.
 
Torrance1 said:
Hello everyone
I have a couple of projects going on at the same time.
One is my 74 Dart Swinger, the others are a 1956 Packard and a 62 stationwagon Have any of you done a retro fit Hydraulic roller?
I'm not concerned about the cam, but the lifter dimensions and the push rod length
Did you go with the link bar or dog bone style keepers?
and of course what brand lifter did you use.
Thanks
Best
Click to expand...

'89 -'91 318 TBI roller engines, stock lifters, stock pushrods, stock heads, stock rockers, stock 9.2:1 pistons. Can be converted to carburetor.

Find a stock roller engine and go from there. Lifter bores stand up higher on the roller engines to accommodate the roller lifters.

20200608_201627.jpg


Edit:
The above Roller Engine has reinforced upper lifter bores that are factory cast into the engine block.

20210724_215129.jpg
 
Last edited:
go-fish said:
I too have an engine going together at IMM. 340 hyd. roller engine.
@pishta LA’s should be bushed if the chamfers on the lifter bores are deep. Most bores are too deep on LA’s.
I suggest @Torrance1 call Brian.
Click to expand...
I am running Comp Retro Hydraulic rollers in my 340 with a XR274HR-10 cam in a stock 69 LA block and have no oiling issues. Lifter bores were all within spec and have very little factory chamfer.
The hyd rollers are junk they are loud and leak down very quickly which causes them to clatter bad on hot and/or cold start up. I have tried every preload known to man they are just poor quality if you did not have to pull the heads to get them out they would already be gone.
I cant recommend the cam either, it's dog down low. Poor valve timing events, intake opens way to late.
 
George Jets said:
'89 -'91 318 TBI roller engines, stock lifters, stock pushrods, stock heads, stock rockers, stock 9.2:1 pistons. Can be converted to carburetor.

Find a stock roller engine and go from there. Lifter bores stand up higher on the roller engines to accommodate the roller lifters.

View attachment 1715770793

Edit:
The above Roller Engine has reinforced upper lifter bores that are factory cast into the engine block.

View attachment 1715770909
Click to expand...
Which lifter did you use in your build?
What year is your block?
Thanks
 
512Stroker said:
Which lifter did you use in your build?
What year is your block?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Block is a 1990 318 roller. Came in a 1991 Dodge W 150 4x4 with TBI.

It was the stock roller lifters, and the stock grind roller cam, that came on the date code 1990 318 TBI Roller Engine block. Added a 1406 Edelbrock 600 cfm 4 bbl and the stock cam handled the 4 bbl just fine.

Stock Roller lifters are available on ebay:

Screenshot_20210724-225918_Chrome.jpg


Stock '90 318 Roller Cam Specs
RockAuto
Screenshot_20210724-225508_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20210724-225627_Gallery.jpg
 
512Stroker said:
RETROFIT hydraulic roller lifters
Run, run fast and hard away from RHRL's
Do some research on this forum regarding issues with RHRL's before you proceed.
Not worth the time and $
Click to expand...
crane or crower are good ones and you'll have to check your lifters bores for tolerance to see if you should resleeve the lifter bores if they are to sloppy or getting out of the oil band.
 
mopardude318 said:
It’s a Hughes hydraulic roller cam. .576/576 lift. 256/258 dur @ .050. I think a 112 CL. It does have the crimp style crossbar. The block I used is a ‘73 360.

from now on, I’ll only use the pre magnum LA roller cam block for a build. I currently have one being built at IMM for my little blower build. And another roller cam 360 sitting under my work bench for a later date. I’d like to pick up a roller 318 and do a max 318 build with solid roller, gear drive, trick flow heads or even W2’s. But I don’t know of anyone who’d spend the money on that build just to do it. I’m crazy enough.
Click to expand...
What state u in ?
I have a buddy in GA with many 318 roller blocks and a 5.9 roller pretty cheap if u ever get
Near here
 
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