Reuse intake manifold gaskets?

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jrc4y4

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Went to install my intake last night. Put Permatex on the head side of the gasket, nothing on the intake side. And then Permatex on the front and rear instead of cork. My buddy (A CHEVY GUY!!!) assured me I used enough. This morning I could slide an envelope between the intake and the permatex, into the lifter valley. So, off it comes. My question is, since I torqued down the bolts, can I reuse my gaskets Fel-Pro Performance Intake Manifold Gasket Sets 1213 or do I have to get new ones? It's an Edelbrock Performer on a 318 if that means anything in the conversation. Thanks!
 
Paper or embossed steel ? looks like paper from the link.You might get away with it.But for $20 it's your call.
 
Probably a good way to have a leak and another intake pull. That is one thing I rarely re-use. If you do, then I'd see if I could leave them in place on the heads when I pulled the intake, and add a thin, skim coat of RTV on the intake side to help them re-seal.
 
!!!NO!!!

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Gasket is paper. Yeah, you guys are right. I shouldn't cheap out over $20 LOL. Thanks for the quick advice. Hope someone else can learn from my dumb question.
 
Went to install my intake last night. Put Permatex on the head side of the gasket, nothing on the intake side. And then Permatex on the front and rear instead of cork. My buddy (A CHEVY GUY!!!) assured me I used enough. This morning I could slide an envelope between the intake and the permatex, into the lifter valley. So, off it comes. My question is, since I torqued down the bolts, can I reuse my gaskets Fel-Pro Performance Intake Manifold Gasket Sets 1213 or do I have to get new ones? It's an Edelbrock Performer on a 318 if that means anything in the conversation. Thanks!

Those are Print O seal type gaskets and can be reused if the previously used Permatex doesn't interfere.
It's always a personal decision anyway depending on how they look, and fresh un run ones are usually just fine.
If you are talking about RTV when you say Permatex, that stuff can usually be rolled off with your fingers and a little patience.
FYI, RTV can also be removed with a gas soaking.
 
Never re-use! Call FM tech support for proper gasket application and sealing. 1 800 325 8886.
Something doesn't sound right if you can slip something down into the valley?? Good luck.

Well the intake front and rear does not fit flush over the back of the block and the front at the water pump housing. That's just how it's built.
 
Ok, thanks for the info Trail Beast. Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone 82180 this is the RTV I'm using.

Yep, the Ultra series of RTV comes off even easier than the normal RTV.
IMO people that just run down and get a new gasket either have money to do that all the time, or no experience with what the requirements of the gasket are.
That's why I said it's a personal decision, to get new ones or not.

Also note that where the china wall, heads and intake come together on the passengers side the china wall comes real close to not actually meeting up with the underside of the intake in that corner.
I like to have everything in place and ready and do the china wall last fast and wet when the intake sets down.
The Right Stuff or Red RTV is all I will use on an intake, as like I said the Ultra series RTV is a lot softer when set.

A heavy 3/8 bead front and back staying close to the inner side of the wall is the trick.
Especially on that passenger side front corner.
Then slam that intake on there as soon and as straight down as possible.

RTV the bolt threads, and a small bead under the shoulder of the bolt head where it will contact the intake, then wipe off any that squeezes out from under the bolts right away.

You will have a nice clean assembly that won't seep oil on your intake, heads and block.

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Not sure if its been mentioned but check that locating rollpins/dowels arent hanging/holding intake up.

I will take a pic of how it is sitting when I get a chance and see if there's something I'm missing. Thanks for the input.
 
I will take a pic of how it is sitting when I get a chance and see if there's something I'm missing. Thanks for the input.

Steve is referring to the two factory locating pins in the block.
The will hold an intake up from seating and have to be removed if they have not already.
A pair of vise grips takes them out really easy.

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Ah! Great! Yeah, they are just empty holes. I figure the factory intake had a pin but the Edelbrock does not. Also the head gaskets have some tabs sticking up, but they were already on there from when I first pulled the intake again.
 
Ah! Great! Yeah, they are just empty holes. I figure the factory intake had a pin but the Edelbrock does not. Also the head gaskets have some tabs sticking up, but they were already on there from when I first pulled the intake again.

I like to cut those off flush when using RTV.
 
Ok, I will do that then when I pull the intake back off. How much gap do you usually see between the intake and the block?
 
Also, how on the world do you remove and install the intake without scraping the intake with sockets LOL
 
Ok, I will do that then when I pull the intake back off. How much gap do you usually see between the intake and the block?
Varies a lot with any machining that has been done on block and heads. So there is not set answer.
 
Also, how on the world do you remove and install the intake without scraping the intake with sockets LOL

A box end wrench and patience.:D
You just keep the wrench just slightly up off the intake.
 
They do make shoulder bolts for intakes in a kit and even comes with a wrench. Check with Summit or Jegs. Just a thought.
 
I'd reuse those gaskets... never been run what's the problem?

I have reused some of those thick white paper intake gaskets three times on my race engines...
 
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