Reverse manual valve body installation

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Shadow

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How hard is it to install a reverse manual
valve body into a 727? My mechanical
skills are decent but I have not been too
deep into an auto trans. Also is there any
reason at all to keep the kickdown linkage
in place or does it get removed?
 
It is not that hard....

you need to drain the pan...remove the shift linkage lever and kick down levers...remove the filter....

then there are 10 bolts that hold the valve body.....pull the valve body down...you might need to turn the driveshaft by hand to get the park rod to come out....

if the transmission has never been modified in anyway...there will be a spring between the valve body and the accumulator ....

that will get the valve body out....just basically reverse the process...there should be an instruction sheet with the valve body...as some will tell you not to reinstall the spring with accumulator or not...

if it is a true RMVB...you will not need the kickdown linkage...as there will no automatic features in the trans...

you can go to Turbo Action web site and download the instructions for their cheetah valve body and read them
 
Thanks Tony I will give this a try. I guess this
also means you like the Turbo Action cheeta valve body?
My next question would have been which
brands are good. Thanks again I really think I
can do the installation.
 
I have used a TA valve body for years....only thing...they have no braking in low gear....

if you are in 1st gear....and let up on the gas...the trans does not slow the car down...and do not floor the gas pedal while coasting...

there are some valve bodies that have what is call Low band applied...that will slow the car in 1st gear coasting....

I believe if you call TA...they will build you one like that...other wise it is a NON Low band applied.
 
Go to some of the popular automatic websites, like Turbo Action / Cheetah, B&M, etc, some of them have destructions posted. I managed to figure it out first shot. Make sure you get the park rod in the right spot

http://www.turboaction.com/frame.html
 
Swapping valve bodies is a piece of cake IMO. Tony described it well. Only thing I'll ad is to torque the valve body bolts to 100 inch lbs. (or whatever the instructions that come with the valve body say). And if you like a leak free trans. get a new style coated steel pan gasket. I don't believe they cost over $20 and are re-usable.

If it's a street or street/strip car I highly suggest getting a "low band apply" valve body. Race car, don't worry about it, just drive it like Tony described. Without low band apply you can grenade a trans. if driven wrong
 
Is there a modification that can be done to add the low band apply to a cheetah valve body that's already been installed? The car I bought recently has the one without low band as he used it primarily for drag racing. It also has a 4000-4400 stall converter with either 4:10 or 4:56 gears (haven't checked that yet). I am trying to tame it down, just a little, for street use mainly. Didn't mean to hijack but maybe this info will also be helpful to the OP.
 
Probably thousands of cheetah valve bodies used for drag racing with no low band applied...

just start burnout in 2nd gear....and dont get in and out of throttle in 1st gear...if it is a 727...and if you ever break a drive line part in 1st gear..during the launch you need to inspect the sprag in the trans...which is true for any valve body in use..
 
Went on to Summit to find the cheeta
valve body and they had the installation
instructions right there including pictures!!
Thanks to all you guys for the tips, you guys are
always so helpful !!!!!!
 
Shadow said:
Went on to Summit to find the cheeta
valve body and they had the installation
instructions right there including pictures!!
Thanks to all you guys for the tips, you guys are
always so helpful !!!!!!
Click to expand...

LOL I posted the link above
 
MobileCustoms said:
Is there a modification that can be done to add the low band apply to a cheetah valve body that's already been installed? The car I bought recently has the one without low band as he used it primarily for drag racing. It also has a 4000-4400 stall converter with either 4:10 or 4:56 gears (haven't checked that yet). I am trying to tame it down, just a little, for street use mainly. Didn't mean to hijack but maybe this info will also be helpful to the OP.
Click to expand...

I don't know of a mod. Your best bet is to call the manufacturer.
 
correct me if im wrong,but i thought there was other mods that needed done to the tranny.i had a cope racing tranny that had a mvb and wanted to go back to an auto v.b. john told me that i could not do this without going into the tranny. not sure what the mods were though.
 
I can do it in 20 minutes with air tools. Maybe less.
 
70aarcuda said:
Probably thousands of cheetah valve bodies used for drag racing with no low band applied...

just start burnout in 2nd gear....and dont get in and out of throttle in 1st gear...if it is a 727...and if you ever break a drive line part in 1st gear..during the launch you need to inspect the sprag in the trans...which is true for any valve body in use..
Click to expand...

Uh, oh. I did a few burn outs in 1st. Now I'm having a no park, no reverse, seems car wants to stay in drive no matter where I ratchet the b&M pro ratchet shifter, I've tried re doing the linkage in the furthest gear back since its a cheetah reverse full manual valve body. any thoughts?
 
put shifter in neutral...put trans in neutral....adjust cable.....

shift to 1st gear...check to see if swivel is easy to move in and out...adjust 1 turn either way if necessary...

do the same thing in reverse....
 
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