Reverse Valve Body???

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72_Durstya

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ok here it is I know nothing about transmissions, I've been reading a lot of your guy's setups and it seems to me that everyone prefers reverse valve body transmissions to whatever the opposite is. I was hoping someone can explain to me the different types, why they're better/worse and just what a reverse valve body is lol.

thanx.
 
Well the 72' Duster I just bought. Has a 727 with 4200 converter and manual reverse valve body. (the one in my avatar) You want the manual valve body cause it shifts when you want it to shift (and Hard) This is usually used with a "slap or ratchet" shifter. Every time you slap it , goes up one gear. When you get to a stop light you have to "ratchet" it 3 clicks back to 1st. Hence the name. Think of a manual tranny that shifts just by pulling the lever, no clutch pedal involved , just pull the lever for every shift. I'd be inclined to say that you'd only want this setup for more of a race car than a daily driver.
 
i knew what a slap shift was. so manual reverse valve body is just the fancy way of saying slapshift? how do you know if thats what you have?
 
Right now I just have the 904 3-speed on the tree. I was just curious about the whole thing because when I go to swap the 904 for a 727, I want to know what to look for so I don't end up with something that isn't what I want.
 
My plan is to make it 340, auto 727, 8 /34 3:91 gears with 425 hrp. Mainly I would be driving it on the street but I will be taking it to the strip ocassionaly so i'd say 90%street 10% strip.
 
72_Durstya said:
My plan is to make it 340, auto 727, 8 /34 3:91 gears with 425 hrp. Mainly I would be driving it on the street but I will be taking it to the strip ocassionaly so i'd say 90%street 10% strip.
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Plan on an automatic with a hard shift kit... 425 Rear wheel HP? Maybe with a 75 or 125 shot, a 3500 rpm converter ... I dont think the manual reverse valve body will suit your needs... If you want to street drive it. I drive mine to the 7-11 once in a while just to turn heads. I think i'm close to 425-450 HP only Cause this car turned in @ 12.20 on street tires.. 360 not sure what's in the motor, I know it will spin 8,000 strongly. 4.11 gears.
255/75/15 rear street tire for now. Well I could write a book about it but, i'm sure someone else has had more experience and will correct me... (hint , hint)
 
I was also thinking about putting in a 3000-3500 rpm stall, I'm not into the whole NOS thing so I won't be using that.

thanx for help!
 
A reverse pattern valve body is just that-reverse pattern. Instead of D-2-1 you have
1-2-3 on the shifter. For what you are doing, a Turbo Actio manual/automatic standard pattern valve body may work better. The manual reverse pattern valve bodies were intended for strip use.
 
A manual shift valve body may make it shift hard but unless it is a valve body that applies the low/reverse band in low range it is not good to use on the street. Many guys have ran them and got lucky and not trashed their trannies but I wouldn't take a chance with one.

Like EricS68 said it sounds like you only need a solid built trans with a good shift improver kit in it such as Trans-go's TF-2 kit. A manual valve body is overkill for someone who's race use is only at 10%.

Oh and the reason for a reverse valve body is so when you are shifting gears you are shifting away from neutral. So "reverse shifting" and "slap shifting" don't mean the same thing.
 
fishy68 said:
A manual shift valve body may make it shift hard but unless it is a valve body that applies the low/reverse band in low range it is not good to use on the street. Many guys have ran them and got lucky and not trashed their trannies but I wouldn't take a chance with one.

Like EricS68 said it sounds like you only need a solid built trans with a good shift improver kit in it such as Trans-go's TF-2 kit. A manual valve body is overkill for someone who's race use is only at 10%.

Oh and the reason for a reverse valve body is so when you are shifting gears you are shifting away from neutral. So "reverse shifting" and "slap shifting" don't mean the same thing.
Click to expand...


i agre about the trans-go TF2 kit that shiftkit has worked great for me during 2 summers i am running pretty hot 340 and a 904 gearbox with just a masterkit(rebuildkit) and the TF2 kit and it shifts HARD at full throtle but still nice and gentle when just crusing ( could be that my converter slips some while cruising) just the way i want it :thumblef:
 
For the street stay with a stnd pattern non manual valve body. And if you dont like pushing the shifer away from you get a rev. exit shiter. It will stay p r n 3 2 1 but rev. 1 2 3 n r p so your pulling. Some rev. valve bodies, mainly ones with t-brakes will lock the wheels if you downshift into 1st at more than 5 mph.
 
I think most go with the manual valve body because it does away with the picky throttle pressure linkage for the kick down or passing gear.
 
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