ride height

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Ron816

Mopar forever
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I have a 68 GTS H-Code Dart that I just finished the restoration on, been driving around for a bit and noticed if I hit a pothole or small rut front end slams hard, I do have bias ply tires on her, would a ride height too low contribute to this issue?
 
Yes. How much distance between down bump stop?

I have maybe 3/4 to 1 inch and HD OEM front tortion bars, and 273.

I dont notice and odd ride but it has always been that way so i might just not notice anything
 
Too low a ride height, too small torsion bars, worn out shocks, bad alignment etc. could all contribute to what you describe. Download a factory service manual, the ride height process and alignment specs are there. Here's what you're looking for, might be a bit small to read easily. "V&L" line are what you want to follow. And since you actually have bias ply's, these are the numbers you want to use. If you change to radials, use the SKOSH chart for alignment specs.

factoryalignspecs-jpg.jpg
 
Entire suspension is new I think I’m going to increase the ride height a bit
I think it may be a little low

1801B5E6-2402-4E2C-85AF-0C9FB15B154C.jpeg
 
Went up about and inch, problem fixed

Make sure you check your alignment, that's more than enough of a change to mess with your toe settings enough to cause premature tire wear.
 
Not much hwy, besides we don't own these cars for the gas mileage.
 
Yep, check the bump stops. Looks like you could use some new rear springs. It would sit higher and then you can raise the front a bit for the right look, and ride.
 
Are they stock replacement springs? Also there is a procedure for ride height and specs for how high the bumper is supposed to be off the ground etc.
 
They are stock replacement, checked the specs in the manual right in line.
 
Are they stock replacement springs? Also there is a procedure for ride height and specs for how high the bumper is supposed to be off the ground etc.
The ride height on our A-bodies is specified as a difference between the lowest point of the LBJ and under the flat of the ride height adjusting spoon. .... IIRC. I don't recall the number but it has a narrow window.
By doing it this way the camber-change of the cycling suspension, will better stay in spec with various different height tires. So bottom-line is that bumper height has nothing to do with it.
Oh, I guess I should mention; our Mopes have un-equal length control arms, so then, as the suspension cycles up and down the camber changes, as a function of that difference. And because of the way the steering is designed; when the camber changes, so does the Toe-In. And when the toe-in changes while traveling dead straight, the car tends to Wander, and follow ruts, making it feel nervous..
You might think that making the control arms the same length would solve this.... and you would be right..... But that introduces a new problem, namely tire scrub, and instability in the turns.
During the up and down travel of the body relative to the center of the wheel, there is a narrow window, by design, in which this camber change is minimized; and the ride height as specified, seeks to keep it there. Loose shocks and pussy T-bars aggravate the possibility of staying in the window.
When things go bad, hitting a bump in mid-turn with the loaded wheel, can be an unsettling experience, as the loaded wheel attempts to self-steer.
Consult the book.
It might be 2.375, I sorta remember that number.
 
The ride height adjustment procedure and setting is in the picture of the FSM in post #4. Everything is there. You can download the FSM for free on MyMopar.com if it’s too small for you.
 
The ride height on our A-bodies is specified as a difference between the lowest point of the LBJ and under the flat of the ride height adjusting spoon. .... IIRC. I don't recall the number but it has a narrow window.
By doing it this way the camber-change of the cycling suspension, will better stay in spec with various different height tires. So bottom-line is that bumper height has nothing to do with it.
Oh, I guess I should mention; our Mopes have un-equal length control arms, so then, as the suspension cycles up and down the camber changes, as a function of that difference. And because of the way the steering is designed; when the camber changes, so does the Toe-In. And when the toe-in changes while traveling dead straight, the car tends to Wander, and follow ruts, making it feel nervous..
You might think that making the control arms the same length would solve this.... and you would be right..... But that introduces a new problem, namely tire scrub, and instability in the turns.
During the up and down travel of the body relative to the center of the wheel, there is a narrow window, by design, in which this camber change is minimized; and the ride height as specified, seeks to keep it there. Loose shocks and pussy T-bars aggravate the possibility of staying in the window.
When things go bad, hitting a bump in mid-turn with the loaded wheel, can be an unsettling experience, as the loaded wheel attempts to self-steer.
Consult the book.
It might be 2.375, I sorta remember that number.
I would imagine things change also with different tire sizes etc. For example, my 70 swinger had 14 inch ralleys. Ive had people tell me I need "more tire" etc. But I have always been restoring mine back toas close to original" as possible. I am thinking about running aluminum wheels also at some point, but they will be 14s as well...

a total cruiser...
 
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