Rocker arm geometry problem

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I always assemble my heads with the rockers to check the geometry and shim as needed BEFORE I ever bolt them to the block. You can even slide the valves in without the springs installed, then install the rockers and move the rockers through their travel to check the geometry. The pushrods are not even needed at this point of an engine build. After the heads, cam and lifters are installed, then you can figure out what push rod length you need to have the 1 to 2 threads showing.
 
I have hardened valve lash caps on my valve tips in my 360, that can extend the valve tip by as much as .050 and protect them from wearing if youre running a solid cam
 
I have a 360 with W2's on it, drag racing only. I went to Hughes Engines to get an adjustable pushrod for measurement purposes. By following the instructions from Hughes I was able to get a set of push rods made exactly to the specifications I needed for my engine. The instructions were thorough and easy to use. They also explain using and making shims for the rocker stands if necessary in the instructions. I highly recommend Hughes for that reason. The push rods are solid and strong. I'm using Crane roller rockers on the engine and have made close to 200 passes on it with absolutely no problems with the valvetrain whatsoever. In summary after reading the above comments and with my experience I would have to say the most important thing you can do is to have custom length pushrods made for your engine. By doing that and using shims to adjust any geometry issues you have you can make a bullet proof system.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Moper was exactly right in saying they are too high allready. Once I got the valve cover off and saw the angle I was dealing with I could see they were too high and figured shims would make it worse. Just to make sure though I put checking springs on #1 cyl valves and installed the rocker asemblies with some shims and ran it through the lift range and it only made the geometry worse.

Ray79rt I was thinking about doing them the way you said next time. Wish I would have thought about it before. Live and learn. Just wish it wasn't allways the hard way.:shaking:
 
daredevil said:
I have hardened valve lash caps on my valve tips in my 360, that can extend the valve tip by as much as .050 and protect them from wearing if youre running a solid cam
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Daredevil I'm not running a solid cam but now that I think of it if the lash caps extend the valve as much as .050 maybe I could just install a set of them to get the height I need. I know I'd also need retainers that accept lash caps. It sure would be a lot less work installing a new set of retainers and lash caps than pulling the heads and going through them again. Cheaper too. But I wonder if that would give me enough? What do you guys think about this idea?
 
Longgone said:
Fishy here`s an article from the guy who did the machine work for my engine, maybe you can get some helpful information from it. http://dvorakmachine.com/tech_RockerGeometry.shtml
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Thanks John. Some good info there. That did give me a little hope for maybe installing lash caps to get more valve stem height. He mentioned it as a possible solution. Probably not as good as having the valve heights set properly but at least maybe I could run this thing and not worry about breaking something.
 
You can always use lash caps. It's nott eh best, but it "fixes" the issue of poor geometry. But.. You will need to replace the retainers with ones made to fit lash caps, and buy the caps. Sorry Fishy..
 
moper said:
You can always use lash caps. It's nott eh best, but it "fixes" the issue of poor geometry. But.. You will need to replace the retainers with ones made to fit lash caps, and buy the caps. Sorry Fishy..
Click to expand...

Thanks Moper. I figured it isn't really fixing it the "politically correct way" per say. But it will work. I just need this engine to last through next yrs. cruising season. I'm saving up for a stroker and should be able to do it by then.

Thanks again to all that replied.
 
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