Rod Clearance Issues (new)

-
Crazy68Dart

Crazy68Dart

Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
22
Reaction score
2
Location
Canton
I have a thread over at Moparts but figured I would post here too.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...=0#Post7670906

Running into some clearance issues with the shifter rods. Dart has an 18 spline a-body 833. I have attached some pictures of the shifter and rods.

I made more clearance (Even though the cross member is already notched from the factory). I think things are going to be okay now, but still very tight. The front side of the cross member where there is no notch is very close too. I don't have the shifter handle on yet and am not good enough with these to know which gear position has the least clearance. Once I get the shifter on and go through the gears I'll report back.

Any thoughts from anyone? Thanks as always.
 

Attachments

  • 101-0196_IMG.jpg
    98.7 KB · Views: 429
  • IMG_2945_reverse.jpg
    43.5 KB · Views: 396
  • IMG_2943_short.jpg
    37.3 KB · Views: 350
  • IMG_2942_long.jpg
    22.5 KB · Views: 381
  • IMG_2940.jpg
    95 KB · Views: 390
  • IMG_2939.jpg
    107.1 KB · Views: 376
  • IMG_2938.jpg
    109.3 KB · Views: 369
  • IMG_2936.jpg
    106.5 KB · Views: 414
  • IMG_2935.jpg
    57.1 KB · Views: 381
  • IMG_2933.jpg
    61.5 KB · Views: 370
pntastar69 said:
Crawl under the car and have someone go thru the gears.
Click to expand...

Hey Mark,

Saw your post over at Moparts, thanks. I think it is more than clearance issues... I reposted at Moparts.

Looks like the levers and likely rods are wrong.
 
I gotta figure more out. May be a super shifter, which I am having a hard time finding info on since the install kit for Mopar was discontinued.

Anyone have install instructions for a Mopar super shifter?
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Does it shift? As long as the rods aren't hitting anything, it should work.
Click to expand...

That's the issue. 1/2 wants to hit the cross member. If I can get it to clear, then the 3/4 wants to hit the 1/2 rod. Swapping around the levers, turning them around.

The transmission is in neutral. Should the levers be straight up? Or really, does the position not matter as long as everything clears, and the neutral linkage adjustment can be made?

Thanks!
 
You need to have the trans in neutral and the shifter locked in neutral, then adjust your rods.

You lock the shifter in neutral by putting a tool (allen wrench or whatever) through the "U" shaped notch and corresponding holes in the shifter levers.

The notch can be seen in your pics below where it says Hurst Comp Plus (and the patent numbers).

Neutral for 1/2 and 3/4 will be the center position. I can never remember about reverse.
 
After researching yesterday I came to the same conclusions.

When the transmission was out of the car the linkage hooked up fine. But the same orientation has clearance issues in the car.

The reverse plate has a hole, too. So getting the shifter in neutral position should be pretty straight forward.

The trans appears to be in neutral. I can spin the drive shaft with the clutch being engaged. I had questions about which position the forks needed to be in for neutral.

Time for some :coffee2:.
 
Crazy68Dart said:
The transmission is in neutral. Should the levers be straight up? Or really, does the position not matter as long as everything clears, and the neutral linkage adjustment can be made?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

The pics I posted elsewhere shows the trans in neutral.
 
it goes through reverse also and the pin centers on a notch on other side for total neutral. you need to release reverse to install the inner rod though

What car is this going into the shifter mounting plate makes a difference. I had an early 64-6 mounting plate (2268 ) on my 67 when I purchased it and fought linkage clearance issues. I purchased the 6350 (195 0090 will also work) plate from Brewers and it took care of the issue. It is still tight but I could get all the rods in w/o hitting.
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=273



1968FormulaS340 said:
You need to have the trans in neutral and the shifter locked in neutral, then adjust your rods.

You lock the shifter in neutral by putting a tool (allen wrench or whatever) through the "U" shaped notch and corresponding holes in the shifter levers.

The notch can be seen in your pics below where it says Hurst Comp Plus (and the patent numbers).

Neutral for 1/2 and 3/4 will be the center position. I can never remember about reverse.
Click to expand...
 
I forgot to post the plate... This is what I have. Didn't think about this being wrong.

The big issue here is that I really am not sure what I have here for an install kit. Could be a Frankenstein of levers, rods, and plate. I hope that is not the case, but I am having a hard time crossing all of the various part numbers to anything legitimate.

The shifter and rods fit the trans and shift it when outside of the car. But, the rods have clearance issues when trying to install in the car.

Thanks again guys.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2946.jpg
    93 KB · Views: 309
Aha.... well looks like my plate is for 64-5 A body... first possible problem. Wonder how different it is from later A-body.
 
Side by side from pics off of Brewer's website.
 

Attachments

  • platecompare.jpg
    41.5 KB · Views: 323
while it does not look like much, for me it was all the difference in the world by changing the angle of the shifter and rods.
I typo'ed above post should have read 2298 not 68.

here is what the factory rods should look like. The inland rods also work. While yours appear aftermarket the extra beef might make them tighter clearance wise. But the plate made a huge difference for me. http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LRS-A
 
Crazy68Dart said:
I have a thread over at Moparts but figured I would post here too.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...=0#Post7670906

Running into some clearance issues with the shifter rods. Dart has an 18 spline a-body 833. I have attached some pictures of the shifter and rods.

I made more clearance (Even though the cross member is already notched from the factory). I think things are going to be okay now, but still very tight. The front side of the cross member where there is no notch is very close too. I don't have the shifter handle on yet and am not good enough with these to know which gear position has the least clearance. Once I get the shifter on and go through the gears I'll report back.

Any thoughts from anyone? Thanks as always.
Click to expand...

According to a '92 Hurst catalog: 4910002 is a Super Shifter3 for a New Process trans W/O a stick. Install kit is: 3730011 which consists of a 1174819 mounting plate, 1/2 arm 1054828, 3/4 arm 1054829, reverse arm 1050053, 1/2 rod 2130106, 3/4 rod 2130100, reverse rod 2130096, bagged hardware 1540121, instruction sheet 1590144.
 
mcode said:
According to a '92 Hurst catalog: 4910002 is a Super Shifter3 for a New Process trans W/O a stick. Install kit is: 3730011 which consists of a 1174819 mounting plate, 1/2 arm 1054828, 3/4 arm 1054829, reverse arm 1050053, 1/2 rod 2130106, 3/4 rod 2130100, reverse rod 2130096, bagged hardware 1540121, instruction sheet 1590144.
Click to expand...


195 2298 Mounting Plate is for a Street Super Shifter.
 
I'm getting more confused again... lol. So, if this is a Super Shifter, is there a reason it says Competition Plus on the shifter itself?

The shifter P/N. I thought the 4 digit was a 6 not a zero. I am going to pull it back out today so I'll make sure of the numbers.

So, ignoring that it says competition plus, it appears that this is a super shifter setup. The mounting plate is for an early A-body, which may be part of the problem. Not sure if I can ID the rods. There are numbers on them which I have pics of. Those numbers are not matching up with the info you posted from the '92 catalog.

Can you cross the rod numbers from the pics to your '92 catalog? I'll get the numbers off the arms/levers.

Thank you!
 
Now, that would be too easy! :)

I actually like the shifter a lot and hope that I can make it work. I am going to try the correct mounting plate for the car and work from there. If the rods still hit, then I need to get different rods, modify the rods I have, or modify the car (more).

Just talked to MCode on the phone, thanks a bunch for your time and help!
 
My guess is that the added material from the rod thickness is messing with your clearances and my vote would be to modify yours or make new ones with your current shifter, if you like the super shifter and you are up to the task.

Quite honestly, pntastar69's suggestion of watching the gear movement is going to be the best way to determine where the clearance issue is.

You have already determined that it's an issue of fitment to the chassis and not within itself. Look for bind in whichever gear you are seeing a problem in, mark where it hits the rod, remove it, bend it accordingly, readjust the rod length with neutral locked out and you're golden.
 
Yeah, looks like this is going to have to me some custom adjustment of parts.

I am going to get the correct plate and see if that helps at all. Otherwise, I am going to bend the rods, make rods, whatever accordingly.
 
Still going at this... :)

I was finally able to figure a little of this out. I got the numbers off the arms/levers. I found them in the Hurst service catalog. The rods that should be in the install kit are not what I have. I cannot find the numbers of my rods anywhere.

Interestingly enough, the 2298 plate comes with this kit and this kit is for the later A bodies.

So, I have some options. Try to locate the rods from this kit, and also possibly try the plate that is available at Brewers that re-positions the shifter slightly.

Here is a snip from the catalog with the numbers for everything.
 

Attachments

  • install_kit.jpg
    17.7 KB · Views: 225
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top