Rods for 416 stroker?

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Yes, you use stock length 6.123" rods. However, using H-beam rods requires a little less grinding on the block to clear the cap bolts.
 
Thanks. Would stock reconditioned rods be strong enough to use? I'm not gonna run nitrous or forced induction, just cam and heads.
 
I have seen where people have used stock rods. But you should upgrade the bolts to ARP and have them stress relieved and shot peened. They should be good to 500hp easy.
 
GotDart said:
I have seen where people have used stock rods. But you should upgrade the bolts to ARP and have them stress relieved and shot peened. They should be good to 500hp easy.
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Ive also seen those stock cast rods come through the block at
extreme rpm's.
 
6T9 GTS said:
Thanks. Would stock reconditioned rods be strong enough to use? I'm not gonna run nitrous or forced induction, just cam and heads.
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Reconditioning rods is around $25 each and a set of ARP bolts is approx $50, that's $250 total.

Mancini Racing sells Eagle SIR rods wich come with ARP cap screws for $239.00. A much stronger rod and save a buck to boot.
 
Talked with a couple of techs from Hughes Engines this moring about getting a kit from them. If I can come up with the funds I think that this is the best route. The kit that they quoted me included a 4" cast crank, forged eagle I beam rods, .030 over forged 10.5:1 Keith Black pistons, rings and bearings, and arp rod bolts for $1905 minus shipping. Thanks again for all the input, I really appreciate it.
 
6T9 GTS said:
Talked with a couple of techs from Hughes Engines this moring about getting a kit from them. If I can come up with the funds I think that this is the best route. The kit that they quoted me included a 4" cast crank, forged eagle I beam rods, .030 over forged 10.5:1 Keith Black pistons, rings and bearings, and arp rod bolts for $1905 minus shipping. Thanks again for all the input, I really appreciate it.
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Hope it works out! I just built a 408 and the forged rods required too much block clearencing. Egag has H beams for about $300. Very little block mods.

Dave
 
I am curious about the block grinding with the Eagle rods. I just purchased a set of Eagle SIR I beam rods and the big end is much more compact than a stock rods with the ARP 12-point cap screws. If these rods require a lot of block clearancing can you even use a stock rod?
 
The stock rods are forged. A cast crank is around $400, Kb's are around $350-400. $1,100 for rods, rings and bearings sounds hi to me.
Paying more for clearance is better that getting uncertain forgings. These are Mopar rods, not chev.
good luck
 
Consider a few facts here:
Eagle rods are made in China
Rods don't break they rip apart
$60.00 ARP bolts are slightly better than stock
Good ARP bolts cost about $125.00 Pro Series
Hyper-ejectic pistons are cheap but they are very heavy compared to a real piston.


Key things to consider:
The lighter the piston the less stress on the rod
The stronger the bolt the less distortion of the cap.

I run the original stock 273 super light rods in my engine and have since we built it 5 years ago, Pro Bolts and Very Light Diamond pistons.

I've twisted it to 7K on more than one occasion...don't ask....dam red lights

Perfectly balanced and machined CAST crank.

Probably 1500-2000 passes and all I've done to it is change a set of bearings.

If it looks good to Superman buy it, if looks good to a human eye you should research it.
 
cuda66273 said:
Consider a few facts here:
Eagle rods are made in China
Rods don't break they rip apart
$60.00 ARP bolts are slightly better than stock
Good ARP bolts cost about $125.00 Pro Series
Hyper-ejectic pistons are cheap but they are very heavy compared to a real piston.

Key things to consider:
The lighter the piston the less stress on the rod
The stronger the bolt the less distortion of the cap.

I run the original stock 273 super light rods in my engine and have since we built it 5 years ago, Pro Bolts and Very Light Diamond pistons.
Click to expand...

Most all rods and cranks you purchase these days are either completely made in China or the forgings/castings come from China. Eagle Rods have a very good reputation and come with ARP cap screws rated to 190,000 psi tensile strength (I believe the same rating as the "PRO" caliber bolts), that is a huge improvement over stock fastners. Based on just a visual comparison of the quality of workmanship between the Eagle and stock rod and you would even consider a stock rod in your engine. The fact that reconditioning stock rods (matching the weights, installing the new bolts, checking to ensure they aren't bent and all are the same lenght and resizing the big end) plus the cost of the replacement high strenght rod bolts makes choosing the Eagle rod a no brainer over a reconditioned stock rod. How can you beat a stronger rod that costs less and will save you some money on balancing too?

Performance hypereutetic cast pistons such as Keith Black are much lighter than stock cast pistons and are much stronger too, they slot between a cast piston and a forged piston. The KB's I used are one of the best bargains out there for less than $200 a set. And, according to the machine shop that did my work they are more closely matched for weight and dimensionly more accurate than many of the high end forged racing pistons. When my rotating assembly was balanced with the KB's and Eagle rods over 200 grams was removed from each end of the crank, that's almost a pound.

For a street engine that will hardly ever spin past 6000 rpm, won't be force fed or sprayed and makes less than 500HP a low cost performance rod like the Eagle SIR and a hypereutectic piston is more than adequate and if you are like me the budget only allows so much for toys so I have to spend wisely.
 
i run shootpenned (is this what its called?)stock forged rods with ARP bolts in my 340 and i twist it to 7500+rpms time after time and it refuses to give up, but this is with the stock 340 crank that has a lot less stroke...
 
I've heard a lot of horor stories about the SIR rods. I've never used them myself though.

You can get a set of scat rods of of ebay for around $300
 
I'm running stock 360 rods that my machinist sized and trued, I deburred them then cryogenic tempered them myself with a set of ARP bolts that I also cryo tempered my self and havent had any problem and I go over 7000 just going to the gas station! I've had these in for 10-12 years now with out a problem this winter it all gets torn down and inspected and probably reused. I street race with it so it gets abused on a regular basis too
 
AdamR said:
I've heard a lot of horor stories about the SIR rods. I've never used them myself though.

You can get a set of scat rods of of ebay for around $300
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Interesting, the machine shop that did the work on my 360 (they build motors for alchohol funny cars) thought the Eagle SIR rods were a great rod for the price if you were looking for something a little stronger than stock.

I have no doubt the stock sb mopar rod is strong enough for most applications. For me it was just a matter of economics. The stock rods need better bolts for performance applications better bolts also mean the big end needs to be resized and they need to be wiegth matched if you want an accurate balance on the rotating assembly. The cost to get the stock rods up to snuff exceeds the cost of a set of SIR rods that are ready to go with ARP cap screws, floating pins and are weight matched.

The Scat rod likely comes from the same foundary in China as the Eagle, they look just like the Eagle H beam. $300 is a great price for another step up in strength.
 
The SIR rods are the same niche as the hypereutectic pistons. The material is a little better, the bolts the same. However, take a set of SIRs and measure them. The center-to-center spec is usually all over the place with them. The worst I heard about was .005" longer than the shortest of the same set. If you are building a competition engine, you certainly can do better. You dont want them. I use facory rods, and have had no failures, although they are not being revved to 7K every time out. They will withstand 6500 with hyper pistons for years with good bolts. I've personally run them over 7K a few times (whoops..lol), and routinely see 6500 with them. More rpms and longevity comes with less piston weight swinging around on it. I dont trust SIRs. Other Eagle lines seam ok, but the SIRs are not for me. Other web boards have posted some pretty bad failures, but I have to admit, it's hard to pin an engine failure on just a rod. Scat and Eagle both use Chinese production, as does the 440Source.com rods for big blocks. They are OK for the cost, if only barely.
 
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