Roll bar in 67 Barracuda?

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RDJ

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I was wondering how hard it would be to install a roll bar in a 1967 Barracuda, with a stock interior. The interior is currently gutted. I don't think the car will go into the 11's, but I would be more comfortable with a roll bar if I don't have to cut up the stock interior too much. Anybody have just a roll bar (would that be a 4 point?) in their Barracuda?
 
Here's one in my duster. I do not think side bars are high enough to be legal,but if I put them in any higher kids could not get into backseat.

F330F4D7.jpg
 
Here's one in my duster. I do not think side bars are high enough to be legal,but if I put them in any higher kids could not get into backseat.

Did you buy a kit, or make it yourself? Is is just the bar and the front struts, or are there struts going to the back also?

Thanks
 
It is a kit I bought from jegs, fit very well. What you see is all I installed but it did come with the bars for rear also.
 
I have a 10 point I got from Art Morrison. It fit perfectly. There is always cutting and fishmouths to fit the bars. Most come long and they are cut to fit..
For the side bars to be legal they must cross between the elbow and shoulder.
http://artmorrison.com/layout.php
 
I was wondering how hard it would be to install a roll bar in a 1967 Barracuda, with a stock interior. The interior is currently gutted. I don't think the car will go into the 11's, but I would be more comfortable with a roll bar if I don't have to cut up the stock interior too much. Anybody have just a roll bar (would that be a 4 point?) in their Barracuda?

I put a 4-point, from Auto Weld, in my 67 Notchback just last week. I too won't go into the 11's but still wanted to add a bar.

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It's the main hoop, their universal notchback rear braces and the seat crossbrace.

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I went with the notchback rear braces because I want to keep the rear seat in the car, even though I've never had a passenger back there.
2802_1144613850880_1093507454_406343_7001312_n.jpg

They drop down through the package tray into the trunk and are welded to 6"x8" plates that are welded to the floor right above a cross member above the stock fuel tank.

2802_1144611130812_1093507454_406330_4470886_n.jpg


2802_1144613810879_1093507454_406342_7669567_n.jpg


The hoop is welded to 6"x12" plates welded to the floor from the rocker box to above the USCarTools frame connectors I also welded in.
2802_1144611250815_1093507454_406333_7154573_n.jpg


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If the car ever gets into the 11's then I'll add the side bars, but for now, I'm going to leave them out.
I'm just going to finish scraping off the rest of the old undercoating, hit the floor with some POR-15 top and bottom and put the interior back it. New Scat Procar buckets and carpet. In the photo above, I just have the driver's seat in so I can move the car around.
 
Without the rear bars.... isn't that kinda, well, less safe?

Sure, but it depends on your perspective. Yes, less safe than having a complete kit. On the other hand, much more safe than having nothing at all. Its not race legal, but its still better than nothing...
 
How did you get it painted that good? I just had 3 tries at mine, and still can't get the lv gun in certain places.
 
I'm building a 67 notchback for the track only at this time but keeping all removed parts for restoring it when I get old LOL . I'm doing all the bar bending myself. I will try to post picks as i get the cage in. it will be chromoly for 7.50 or possibly faster certification. as I do the cage I will be keeping the demensions so I can possibly sell kits in the future.

one of the better fitting kits I have personally installed is by S&W racecars. just be sure and measure and measure and measure before cutting and welding.

not knocking walt felix install he did a very nice job of it. but the rear package trey bars should have been put to the flat area the shocks mount to that is the stongest part of the car then just the floor pan and at a angle. always us the strongest and structurally sound part of the car that the factory put in.
 
not knocking walt felix install he did a very nice job of it. but the rear package trey bars should have been put to the flat area the shocks mount to that is the stongest part of the car then just the floor pan and at a angle. always us the strongest and structurally sound part of the car that the factory put in.

Actually, the center line of those rear braces land over the inner edge of the rear frame rails and the angled boxes they are welded to are not just a plate but a full wedge shape box which have a tab that extends to the outside over the frame rail. They are also welded in over the cross member under the floor. It's not just an angled plate welded to an open spot on the floor pan, there is structure underneath it. I think that's a far more solid spot than even the plates I used for the main hoop which is a rolled plate that runs between the rocker box and the sub-frame connector. I'm considering adding a 2"x3" outrigger under those main hoop plates to add more strength there.
 
Actually, the center line of those rear braces land over the inner edge of the rear frame rails and the angled boxes they are welded to are not just a plate but a full wedge shape box which have a tab that extends to the outside over the frame rail. They are also welded in over the cross member under the floor. It's not just an angled plate welded to an open spot on the floor pan, there is structure underneath it. I think that's a far more solid spot than even the plates I used for the main hoop which is a rolled plate that runs between the rocker box and the sub-frame connector. I'm considering adding a 2"x3" outrigger under those main hoop plates to add more strength there.

yes be sure and put outriggers under the main hoop. if you look at the tub bar as its called on the orange cudas pics the vertical bars he has running down to the pc going across above the shocks is what I was recomending watl felix. your car looks very good I would have done it diferently thats all.
 
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