Roller camshafts?

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swedefish

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I was looking in to get a roller cam and lifters for my 383 cid.
If I choose to go with a hydralic roller what does that mean to the rocker arms, do I need adjustable rockers or...?
Please, school me on this issue, never worked with rollers before.
I bealieve my flat tappet cam went south, I´ll have a closer look tonight.
 
ide call hughes performance on this matter,,,get the correct information the first time,,, here is there number,,,( 309 ) 745-9558

WEB ADDRESS IS hughesengines.com
 
Roller lifters are typically taller and require shorter push rods. You usually go with adjustable rockers for solid lifter cams (roller or flat tappet) or when the cams lift is big enough to required stiff springs that stock rocker arms can't handle.
 
Get the right pushrods and you shouldnt have to have sdjustables... But, they can be handy to have and they are stronger by a bit. Also, if you lost a cam, you should really be taking the engine out for cleaning..
 
Made a check of the cam today, not sure though if this method is accurate
enough.
Did remove the rocker arm shaft and put a micrometer on the top of the pushrods. Aligned it to be parallel with the pushrod and cranked the engine by hand while watching the micrometer.

The cam is a MP purple shaft 284/484

The reading was (including the 1.5 ratio of the rockerarms) between
0.483" -0.486"..What are the tolerences from Mopar Performance ?
Should I bring the cam out of the engine?
The reason I´m checking the cam is that I had a noice from the passenger side
of the engine after sitting in idle for about 10-15 minutes.
The cam was broken in a couple of months ago and hasn´t been running since then

Could the excenter on the camshaft for the fuel pump wear down ?

The main cause for the trouble shooting is, this sort of, tapping noise on the passenger side
and it doesn´t sound as a ticking lifter noise either, more like a knock.

This is video clip of the engine at idle. Did try to locate that whinning sound.
I believe it is comming from the alternator, had some funny reading on the alt. gauge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VruYnjtdeNk
 
drop the fan belt and see if the sound goes away. If so backtrack. Sounds like an alti. or water pump bearing.

Terry
 
A Mechanics Stethoscope is a good tool for finding out what is making the noise.
 
I had the same whine from a new rebuilt alternator, I checked the long bolts that hold the halves together. They we're all loose, really loose!! This happened after 200 miles. But mine had no ticking noise. After tightening the bolts the whine went away and it has been working fine since.
 
Thanks guys.
Had a look at Hughes site, the roller with lifters will really hurt the wallet if
I´ll go for it. We have to add 28% for customs and taxes to the price, besides the shipping.
I´ll have a look at the alternator.
What do you guys say about the measurements of the cam?
 
I think if the cam lobes are off by only a couple thousandths you're OK. I believe it's when they are a couple hundredths off that there might be a problem. Usually hydraulic lifters can self-adjust to take up minute differences in lobe lift.
 
I think if the cam lobes are off by only a couple thousandths you're OK. I believe it's when they are a couple hundredths off that there might be a problem. Usually hydraulic lifters can self-adjust to take up minute differences in lobe lift.

Thanks Moped
 
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