Roller Lifter's ?

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Yes, but they're designed for pushrod oiling rather than conventional rocker arm oiling. They may also require clearancing of the valley area for the link bars.
 
if you need pushrod oiling look at the 8043's they have the link bar in the front
 
Those are the things I am wondering about. I will be using "X" heads. The cam should be no higher lift than about .500 to .525. I also have what appear to be stock adjustable rockers and ball and cup pushrods. This would be on a blower setup.

Jack
 
First your going to have the lifter bores bushed in order for them to work correctly (if you going hyd. That or go order up a set from Hughes which are designed so you don't have to bush the lifters). Also if your using a hyd cam, your going to run into the same problems that I did, the angle of the Pushrod to the rockers (because of how severe the angle is with how high the lifters sit outside the lifter bores). You can drill you x heads for it to work but by doing that you'll severely compromise the strength of the cast iron to where it bolts up to the intake manifold. Your only real option is to get yourself some aftermarket heads (either magnum heads, RHS or eddy heads (because theyre reasonably cheap/affordable) because your going to need to open up the Pushrod holes). All that being said, I'd go with the eddy heads (which I bought and used for my roller cam in my 340) because they are aluminum and it gets screwed up it can be easily fix because they are aluminum. Cast iron is a lot harder to fix and it won't be 100% that it is completely repaired. This is what I had to do to get my setup to work.
If you do a search for "Pushrod problems" and "aluminum heads" , I started a couple of threads and you can get a better look that way.
 
Even if your going to use a solid roller setup, you'll still have the same problem as I did, but with less severeity.
 
Sounds like I will be staying with a solid flat tappet setup. I already have a set of tappets.
I was just thinking of the rollers because I saw a set for sale for $100.

Jack
 
Don't get me wrong, going with a roller setup is a great way to get extra power just a heads up on it. If I had to do it over I wouldn't change a thing. Id still go with the roller cam. Just remember that a roller cam puts you in the power curve sooner and keeps you there longer vs standard flat tappet cam.
 
I helped in the design of the 8043-16 lifters Comp now sells. Depending on the lobe size, you can run these lifters with no block mods at all!
They drop in, pushrod oil, pressure fed bearings and deep skirts.
I will usually drop the base circle on the cam when ordering if I'm using a .430 lobe or larger.
I can also sell you those lifters cheaper than ANYONE on the planet!
Brian
 
ou812 said:
I helped in the design of the 8043-16 lifters Comp now sells. Depending on the lobe size, you can run these lifters with no block mods at all!
They drop in, pushrod oil, pressure fed bearings and deep skirts.
I will usually drop the base circle on the cam when ordering if I'm using a .430 lobe or larger.
I can also sell you those lifters cheaper than ANYONE on the planet!
Brian
Click to expand...

Brian,
As I said, I saw a set of these for $100 on another site. He couldn't use them for some reason and was just getting rid of them cheap. Would they work with "X" heads and standard ball/cup rods? I am assuming the pushrods would have to be changed but I am unsure. I was thinking somewhere in the .500 range of total lift for a cam.

Jack
 
Jack, they'll work with that lift. When Brian said a .430 lift, he said on the lobe of the cam. Which would be .430 X 1.5 for at the valve for a theorectical lift.

.430 X 1.5 = .645

Well under your .500 or so lift.
 
I wouldn't waste the money to install a solid roller for only .500 lift. Maybe a hydraulic roller, but not a solid, no matter how cheap the lifters are.
 
LOL @ guitar. Can you get a solid roller at/under .500?
 
I am tired of wiping out flat tappet cams. (2 so far in 4 years) Once I get the blower on top, I don't want to be taking it apart because of a wiped cam.

Jack
 
Coyote Jack said:
I am tired of wiping out flat tappet cams. (2 so far in 4 years) Once I get the blower on top, I don't want to be taking it apart because of a wiped cam.

Jack
Click to expand...

The upgrade to roller aint cheap. I would be carefull buying those lifters...they are almost 600.00 from Comp new so 100.00 sounds too good to be true.
What springs do you have? Rockers? Cam already or???
 
ou812 said:
The upgrade to roller aint cheap. I would be carefull buying those lifters...they are almost 600.00 from Comp new so 100.00 sounds too good to be true.
What springs do you have? Rockers? Cam already or???
Click to expand...

Go check out Hughes racing and get them for 345 or so (that's what I paid for my hyd roller).
 
Jack,

I wouldn't use roller lifters on a flat tappet cam. The effective base circle on the roller lifter is much less than on a flat tappet and you'll end up having much less duration.
 
I don't think that is the issue Ramchar. I think he wants to switch to a roller.

Jack, if your wiping out flat tappets, check your lifter bores. Perhaps, the tappets are binding up/not spinning around in the bores like they should. I'm sure you have the matched springs to the cam.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I don't think that is the issue Ramchar. I think he wants to switch to a roller.

Jack, if your wiping out flat tappets, check your lifter bores. Perhaps, the tappets are binding up/not spinning around in the bores like they should. I'm sure you have the matched springs to the cam.
Click to expand...

The first cam I wiped, I was able to trace the cause down to machining that was done. The second one was a mystery and happened last spring after the cam being in for 3 years. It may have been caused by starting the car in cold weather after it had been sitting. I now add a can of Comp Cams break in additive with every oil change. I have the top of the engine off right now to replace an intake valve that had some gaulling (sp?) on the top of the stem due to a rocker going bad and the cam looks perfect. So I will stick with the break in oil additive at each oil change. You are correct that I am exploring the option of going to a roller in my next build.

Jack
 
I wanted to, but I think I'll use my last Hyd. cam I have on the shelf for the (HOT) daily driver. I use the Comp break in fluid at oil changes as well.

For surely, next engine, roller!
 
Guitar Jones said:
Well if you are only looking at .500ish lift why not go with a hydraulic roller. Much less maintenance.
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I agree it would be much less money and much less maintanance. I would change the rockers though...those 273 rockers don't like much spring pressure!!
 
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