Roller Lifter's ?

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I agree it would be much less money and much less maintanance. I would change the rockers though...those 273 rockers don't like much spring pressure!!

What kind of lift can the rockers take Brian? The build I am thinking of has a cam without to much lift. (.500ish) From what I read, a street blower setup doesn't require a whole lot of cam to make good numbers.

Jack
 
What kind of lift can the rockers take Brian? The build I am thinking of has a cam without to much lift. (.500ish) From what I read, a street blower setup doesn't require a whole lot of cam to make good numbers.

Jack

But remember you need more spring pressure on the intake side to help keep the intake valve in check because of the intake pressure and the exhaust valve opens against alot more cylinder pressure transfering that pressure right to the rocker arm.
JMO ofcourse...
 
It's my understanding he's wanting solid roller not hyd. roller....big difference!

I understand that, when I ordered my lifters they said they were almost done with a production version (this was months ago sept when I ordered mine), they might be done with the solid roller lifters now.
 
But remember you need more spring pressure on the intake side to help keep the intake valve in check because of the intake pressure and the exhaust valve opens against alot more cylinder pressure transfering that pressure right to the rocker arm.
JMO ofcourse...

I agree with your opinion Brian, the pressure's in a blown engine are much different than a N/A engine. That's why the question. If I have to go to a different rocker I would like to know before hand. I know one thing for sure with this blown engine build. It is much different than what I am used to and the learning curve is steep.

Jack
 
If this is a "next engine" deal, budget to bush the lifter bores for the solid roller. If you're going to do it, do it right IMO. So long as it's a known going in, it's not that much more cash when you look at the engine budget and it's well worth it to correct the lifter angles and true up the lobe/lifter relationship, stabilize the valvetrain, eliminate the oil pressure bleeding, eliminate the possibility of a lifter popping out of the bore if something else falis, and leaving yourself free to use the lighter-body solid roller lifters.
 
Here's is where I sit right now moper. I have a new set of solid lifters. So I can just go with a solid flat tappet if I wish to. I am just exploring to possibility of going to solid rollers because I saw a set for cheap. I can still add a bottle of break-in additive at each oil change and make a flat tappet cam survive. My biggest worry with the flat tappet cam is the initial start up of the blower engine to break in the flat tappet cam. If everything is not perfect I fear that I may do damage to the rest of the engine due to the blower.

Jack
 
With the history that block has, I think you have valid concerns there. I thought you had another block.. Like were starting from a clean slate. My apologies... Brian's lifters are the best compromise and like Brian I have to wonder about those lifters if they are that cheap even second hand.
 
I will be using a new to me 340 block that I picked up last weekend. Other than it is a standard bore and it looks good, I don't know much about the block yet. The block that I wiped the cams in is a 360 block that is currently in the car and works well.

Jack
 
If I were you I'd take that block to the shop and get it checked out. I personally overbuild my short block for what I'm doing with it. Reason for it is I don't what to pull it and do it all over again, I rather do it once and do it right the first time. If money is getting tight, I'll go cheaper on the top end but those are easier and quicker to change. Example would be; your blower wants 2.02/1.60 to work best but all you got is the 1.88/1.60 heads which will still work with the motor but limit HP. I'd run the 1.88/1.60 heads for the time being (just to drive the car) and when I got extra money I'd order up some RHS or eddy heads with the needed 2.02 valves.
 
If I were you I'd take that block to the shop and get it checked out. I personally overbuild my short block for what I'm doing with it. Reason for it is I don't what to pull it and do it all over again, I rather do it once and do it right the first time. If money is getting tight, I'll go cheaper on the top end but those are easier and quicker to change. Example would be; your blower wants 2.02/1.60 to work best but all you got is the 1.88/1.60 heads which will still work with the motor but limit HP. I'd run the 1.88/1.60 heads for the time being (just to drive the car) and when I got extra money I'd order up some RHS or eddy heads with the needed 2.02 valves.

Yep this is a good way to look at a budget build. Just make sure you use good parts in the heads/valve train or it will take out that nice bottom end!
 
The block will be going to a good local engine builder to be machined. I have already been in contact with him. The bottom end will have a forged crank, H-beam rods and forged pistons. I will not waver on the bottom end. The heads are "X" heads with 2.02 valves with minor porting. I will be gasket matching them. The rockers are stock adjustable, that is why I am wondering about them. I am not sure of the springs, I will be getting them sorted out, and replace them if necessary.

Jack
 
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