Ron Francis Wiring question or 2

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iw378

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I just got done taking out all of my old wiring. Anyways I have a couple of questions
They are closed today otherwise I would call them. First question is their instructions say to hook up the fuse panel power, And alt charge wire to the positive post on starter soleniod not the relay. It would be easier to go to the starter relay correct ? or does it make a difference.

Second question. They say to use the ford style regulator If I want to keep my mopar reg. what steps do I need to do?

The brown wire on the right goes to alt field so I would hook that up to the field connection on the mopar regulator ? In the instructions it says to hook up the other end of the brown wire on the left to post 2 on the fuse panel. would that just go to the ign terminal on the mopar reg. Any help appreciated.
I did search and could not find the answers to my questions.
Thanks
Luke
 
I see no reason at all to use their regulator. What they have done, essentially, is to rework it so that it IS a 69 / earlier Mopar style regulator
 
In a 1969, I recall the big starter wire from BATT+ first goes to the starter relay stud, so that would be the shortest path the the battery (what you want). I assume you know that wiring the ALT output there will bypass your dash ammeter so it will no longer read the current in/out of the battery (and no longer indicate anything). Not a bad idea, and indeed that is the "MAD Bypass" that keeps connectors from melting.
 
I see no reason at all to use their regulator. What they have done, essentially, is to rework it so that it IS a 69 / earlier Mopar style regulator
So the brown wire on the right goes to alt field per the instructions. The the brown wire on the left goes to the fuse panel. the red jumper confuses me.
 
In a 1969, I recall the big starter wire from BATT+ first goes to the starter relay stud, so that would be the shortest path the the battery (what you want). I assume you know that wiring the ALT output there will bypass your dash ammeter so it will no longer read the current in/out of the battery (and no longer indicate anything). Not a bad idea, and indeed that is the "MAD Bypass" that keeps connectors from melting.
I started wiring the car today and I did run the batt to starter relay stud, then to starter. I ran the alt charge wire to the same stud on relay. When I first got the car I did the mad bypass but have since had all my gauges rebuilt and the alt meter converted to a voltmeter when I rebuilt my cluster.
 
Look at the Mopar regulator which is marked. The screw terminal is the field terminal, goes (originally) through a green wire down to the alternator field terminal. The other end of the field is grounded, which means, originally, that there is only one field terminal on the alternator, and if you are using a 70 / later alternator, you must ground the second field

The "push on" terminal of the Mopar goes to "switched ignition run" or as Ma called it, "IGN 1" Originally, this was the "dark blue" IGN wire that also fed the ballast resistor.

I have no idea what colors Francis uses. If you have a link to their wiring online, it would be helpful

All in the world they are doing, is reconfiguring a Ferd regulator for a 2 wire connection just like the old Mopars.

As far as I know there is no advantage

They are not better quality that I know of

They don't look correct, if you are worried about that

The Francis ones are needlessly larger and take up more room

They may or may not be cheaper than Mopar ones

As with all these aftermarket harnesses......................

Generally, the suppliers are NOT Mopar guys. They speak Ferd and GM

Generally, the documentation sucks. If I were you, I'd sit down and work out ALL wires coming out of the fuse panel, and document them, or at least follow them in the manual IF THEY ARE documented, so you know what fuses feeds "whats."

I would consider taking a REAL good look at the wiring sizes, and "figure" whether or not you need added stuff like power relays

I use relays in mine to feed several things

The ignition and field wiring

The EFI and fuel pump

One relay for hi, one for lo, beam headlight

At least one left over for security.

Of course, I might not live long enough to ever see mine run again...........

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970214369
 
I used the ford style regulator and hooked it up to my dual field denso. So far, it hasn't worked with the way they said to wire it.

So i'd go with the regulator you have.
 
I ended up using the ford style regulator. At idle charging voltage is 14.29. At a fast idle of about 3 grand the charging voltage goes up to 14.31. This is with the same alternator that was in my car. With the mopar style reg (i've tried a few ) it would be at around 13.3 or so at idle.
In other words just keeping up.
 
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