Jim910
Well-Known Member
Thanks.Really nice lookin car, Jim!
Thanks.Really nice lookin car, Jim!
I've done 2 sets that weren't swedged either. You learn something new every day.I think the swedge was shallower that the ones on the drums. I'm with Rob, the K-H ones I've done (2 sets) were not swedged.
I just finished completely rebuilding the front end. Calipers and rotors are the last bits.Really nice lookin car, Jim!
Thanks for the info. I'll have to check my hubs.Originals were swedged. If the rotors have been replaced they are not swedged. It is easy to tell, if you can see the countersink and hole around the stud, they have been replaced. The swedge covers these the countersink and through hole on original rotor hubs. If yours looks like the bottom picture you are good to go. If not, they are original and swedged.
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Yes, 4 Speed. The way God intended.Sweet 67 S!
4 speed?
I must say, I don't have a dog in this fight, but when I first did KH brakes I brought the hub/rotor to a mechanic friend to separate as I had no clue at the time.
He tried to press apart, using an actual press, and they wouldn't come out.
He ended up cutting the studs off flush, and drilling through them in the back side, iirc.
I don't recall much else, as a complete novice to drums and hubs and rotors held together this way, I still thought it strange.
I have another set I plan on rebuilding, the 'original' set off my car, which was fairly intact and unmolested when I got it.
I'll be taking a closer look at those, for my own edification at the least.
My 64 Fury, drums on all 4, were definitely all swedged.
They do not appear to be, no. You can clearly see the inside diameter of the wheel stud bore in the hub. That would otherwise be covered up if the studs were swedged.So here's what I have. Swedged or not?View attachment 1715847107
ThanksThey do not appear to be, no. You can clearly see the inside diameter of the wheel stud bore in the hub. That would otherwise be covered up if the studs were swedged.
Sho nuff, Jim!Thanks
So here's what I have. Swedged or not?View attachment 1715847107
Thanks for the advice. Have you ever run into a problem with runout? Wobbly rotors that had to be machined (cut)?Just put those darn rotors under the ram of a hydraulic press, and press those studs out.
You will find out that they will come right out.
East Peasy.
Your not gonna hurt any of the rotors doing it.
You have nothing to loose anyway.
Your gonna be replacing the rotors with new anyway, aren't you?
All that i have ever used is a 12 ton Harbor Freight, hydraulic press, for 20 + years and NEVER ran into any problems.
And longer than that if you go back to when i started wrenching professionally back in 1980, using whatever press the shop(s) had while working there.
Thanks for the advice. Have you ever run into a problem with runout? Wobbly rotors that had to be machined (cut)?
A local mechanic/shop teacher told me that because the hub and new rotor are two pieces bound together I will have to get the new rotors cut to make sure that they are aligned (in plane) with the hub. Otherwise they could be too much runout and I'll get vibrating. What do you think about this.Sure.
I professionally wrenched for a living for about 30 years.
Back in the day it was standard practice to machine, drums, rotors, when doing a brake job.
Now a days shops don't even have a brake lathe anymore, as modern cars have drums, and rotors, that you just replace.
Throw a way parts.
Remove and replace.
Throw away parts on throw away cars.Sure.
I professionally wrenched for a living for about 30 years.
Back in the day it was standard practice to machine, drums, rotors, when doing a brake job.
Now a days shops don't even have a brake lathe anymore, as modern cars have drums, and rotors, that you just replace.
Throw a way parts.
Remove and replace.
Nope.A local mechanic/shop teacher told me that because the hub and new rotor are two pieces bound together I will have to get the new rotors cut to make sure that they are aligned (in plane) with the hub. Otherwise they could be too much runout and I'll get vibrating. What do you think about this.
A local mechanic/shop teacher told me that because the hub and new rotor are two pieces bound together I will have to get the new rotors cut to make sure that they are aligned (in plane) with the hub. Otherwise they could be too much runout and I'll get vibrating. What do you think about this.
Jim910
Read thru this link.
Safe yourself lots of grief.
That guy 66fs is blowing smoke at you, throwing out miss information.
disc brake wheel stud swedge tool
Clown? He was correct. My original H/K rotors were not swedged. Please go away.Too true. Pictures and all. What a clown. Good to see you are still with us.
If you are concerned, mount and adjust them and use a dial indicator to check for run-out. There isn't much meat to cut on these babies so hopefully they will be true. You never can tell with China castings.A local mechanic/shop teacher told me that because the hub and new rotor are two pieces bound together I will have to get the new rotors cut to make sure that they are aligned (in plane) with the hub. Otherwise they could be too much runout and I'll get vibrating. What do you think about this.
Clown? He was correct. My original H/K rotors were not swedged. Please go away.