Running lights are on ??

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superbirdrag

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When I turn the key on in my 69 barracuda convertible , the running lights come on. I had the dash out for a repaint and cleanup. The harness doesn’t have any added wires . Could it be the column switch ? Any ideas ?
 
I found this in my harness ,some kind of relay Chrysler 4221670, don think it belongs .could this be a McGovern for running lights ?

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No idea. The park lights come off the headlight switch, and they all use the same switch. Some guys move the park wire over to the tail terminal on the HL switch, and that causes the park lights to stay on with headlights. There should be NO connection between that and anything else, unless someone has done some hacking, or if you have had a short and melted a harness
 
I went through the harness , it all looks good . Was thinking it’s the sterring column switch .
 
67Dart273 said:
No idea. The park lights come off the headlight switch, and they all use the same switch. Some guys move the park wire over to the tail terminal on the HL switch, and that causes the park lights to stay on with headlights. There should be NO connection between that and anything else, unless someone has done some hacking, or if you have had a short and melted a harness
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Dell is correct above. Back in the day many owners would find various ways to get parking lamps or running lamps to be on at all times. And you may be correct in assuming the ignition switch was tapped for this purpose.
I don't recognize the relay, nor have I studied its need toward the goal. I can't think of a reason to not leave it as you found it either.
I'm going to put some thought into it though. If the park lamp circuit is infact fed 12 volts from ignition switch, then park lamps are pulled on at the headlight switch you have 2 of 12 volt circuits feeding the park lamps. That may not be a problem but... lets look at when ignition switch is off and park lamps are pulled on at headlight switch. Now you have a 12 volt back feed to ignition switch that will either feed 12 volts to multiple circuits or blow a fuse. The properly wired relay would prevent that back feed.
 
superbirdrag said:
I found this in my harness ,some kind of relay Chrysler 4221670, don think it belongs .could this be a McGovern for running lights ?
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It's a later part. My latest dated parts manual is 1975, and they're not up to that number. 4049661 is the highest number, so likely they didn't get there until a year or two later.
That part number crosses to a Standard Motor Products HR15, sold as a 20 amp horn relay.

Edit - SMP HR151
 
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So this is where the relay was hooked to. Headlamp buzzer. Wire harness matches and wire Color’s match . It’s currently feeding power to the running lights with the key on. (Assuming the relay buzzer thing is bad). With the key off the headlight switch only feed the two headlight . I tested the wires out of the headlight switch and none have power in running light mode.tried three switches
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superbirdrag said:
So this is where the relay was hooked to. Headlamp buzzer. Wire harness matches and wire Color’s match . It’s currently feeding power to the running lights with the key on. (Assuming the relay buzzer thing is bad). With the key off the headlight switch only feed the two headlight . I tested the wires out of the headlight switch and none have power in running light mode.tried three switches
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You misunderstood what I said. All Mopar switches in these A bodies work like so:

(First, unrelated, the headlights ONLY has a separate batteyr feed comes UNfused from the ammeter circuit)

The second switch section is the tail/ park, you have TWO output terminals. When you pull the switch to "park" BOTH tail and park terminals are live

On later cars to get the full time running lamps, all Ma did was to move the park wire over to the tail terminal. The tail terminal is live EITHER in park or headlamps, so with the park lamps wired in parallel to tail, they all stay on either park or headlights.
 
Yes , I got your info off a 2017 post . I have to go trace the wires and see where my power is on the headlight switch . I think I have two problems ,the other has to do with that headlight buzzer possibly back feeding power
 
You should be able to confirm the buzzer backfeed or not simply by disconnecting it
 
The buzzer was replaced by a horn relay 1980 ish . That’s what caused the back feed and turned the running lights into daytime lights . Fixed that , and the rest of the problem is now fixed . I followed 67dart273’s post on the light switch and it led me to a fuse I tested good but was bad when installed.everything is now working including the headlight buzzer. Thanks for the help
 
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