Rust Converter/Encapsulator

[MoparGirl]

Has anyone ever used One Step Rust Killer by Interstate Products? It is advertised as a rust converter that can be applied by brush, roller, or sprayed. I'm considering using it in a sprayer as a converter/primer. It seems to be similar to products such as POR 15 by Eastwood but about half the price.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Pam

 

[cidVicious]

Hi MoparGirl,

I've been using Marhyde One Step on my 72' Duster and it works great. I used it in the trunk area and under the hood where I had some rust starting to develop. I'm also using it on old parts I'm cleaning up for my project.

Use a wire brush first to get the bulk of the scale off then hit the surface with some kind of solvent to clean the dust off. Then just paint it on (spray or brush). Use it in a well-ventilated area and where some rubber gloves.

http://www.bondo.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=298

I am not an expert with this stuff, but I am taking an Auto Body Repair and Paint course at our local community College and my instructor recommended One Step for my project. He has about 25 years experience in the business and see's a lot of old car restorations, so I think he knows what he's doing.

Just follow the directions and definitely heed all warnings and cautions (see website link above).

Good Luck,

 

[MoparGirl]

Hi MoparGirl,

I've been using Marhyde One Step on my 72' Duster and it works great. I used it in the trunk area and under the hood where I had some rust starting to develop. I'm also using it on old parts I'm cleaning up for my project.

Use a wire brush first to get the bulk of the scale off then hit the surface with some kind of solvent to clean the dust off. Then just paint it on (spray or brush). Use it in a well-ventilated area and where some rubber gloves.

http://www.bondo.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=298

I am not an expert with this stuff, but I am taking an Auto Body Repair and Paint course at our local community College and my instructor recommended One Step for my project. He has about 25 years experience in the business and see's a lot of old car restorations, so I think he knows what he's doing.

Just follow the directions and definitely heed all warnings and cautions (see website link above).

Good Luck,

Thanks. I investigated the Mar-Hyde product first. I'm not sure why I ended up with the Interstate product because it seems to me they were similarly priced. It could have been due to odor (actually lack of) that made me choose Interstate.

I'm actually doing more than just wire brush. I wish that was all I had to do. I've taken fenders, doors, hood, & deck lid all down to bare metal....by hand because it only cost me my own labor and some stripper & sanding discs. The funny thing about rust (not funny at all) is that you can get to bare metal, clean it up with solvent, and within about 24 hours you'll start to see some "dark" spots. After a couple of days, the dark spots are rust and you get to start all over again.

 

[TheBestCar]

The rust converters are all fairly decent products when the instructions are followed.

In response to your comments about stripping a given part down to bare steel and the fact that it shows rust again within a few days. I strongly suggest (based on expierence with stripping and coating all kinds of materials) that when you get a part stripped down to bare steel and cleaned, immediatly coat said part with some form of chemical primer. Steel is highly reactive with oxygen (it's not so much water that rusts steel but the oxygen component of water that causes it), in other words it "wants" to combine with the oxygen to create iron oxides. So even a piece of steel in a 100% zero humidity environment will still eventually corrode if there is oxygen present, it will just take a lot longer than it would in a very humid environment. The sooner you treat or coat a piece of work with some form of protectant, the longer it will last, and the less work you'll have to put into it. BTW, most of the fill and sand primers and what not are NOT good for the purpose of sealing a piece thats been brought to bare steel. They actually will work against you. For instance you strip a quarter or fender and then gray prime it and drive around, all you have done is apply a sponge that is allowing the steel to still corrode underneath (yes, the primer will actually absorb and hold moisture), it will just take longer to notice the damage being done.

A dry environment and immediate coating with something like Iron Etch Steel Cleaner 6878 and followed by Triple Etch Phosphate Conversion Coating 6877 (for steel) or even just TRIO/Prime Self Etching Washprimer-Surfacer 8847 which is a corrosion protection primer (all are/were made by Martin Senour Paints used to be available thru NAPA but I am unsure if you can still get it thru them, it's been a while) will go a long way towards a good quality finished product. I only mention these as they are some I have used with success in the past, but anything that does the same job will work.

 

[MoparGirl]

Wow! What great info. Thanks a bunch. I have been coating the pieces immediately with rattle can primer and rust spots come through after about a week. I just figured it was because of the cheap primer. I had no idea that primer would hold moisture in. We have a NAPA in town so I'll give them a call today for the other products you have listed.

Thanks again!

Pam