Rust Oleum red oxide for your motor?

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dibbons

dibbons

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Back in the day (1970's), after smoothing sharp edges with a dremel tool and masking off the machined surfaces of the block and cylinder head, I would spray paint the inside surfaces of my cylinder blocks and cylinder heads with RustOleum red primer. It took about two weeks of drying time before it did not feel tacky any longer. This was supposedly to promote oil drain back and to prevent sludge buildup. During my tear downs, I never found any signs of paint peeling off anywhere. Anyone else follow a similar procedure?
 

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Their use to be some products on the market, that were made for that purpose, but I can't remember their names. I never felt safe painting the inside of the heads/engine. maybe someone will chime in with the names.
I always clean up the casting flash, and anywhere oil flows, i clean it up also. good hand files worked better for me than a Dremel tool. Files didn't ware out either. I'll probably do the same to a couple of blocks soon.

barracudadave67
 
I've torn down a couple of burnt up motors that had oil pumps clogged up with paint (and powdercoat in one case), and I don't see that oil drainback is an issue on most motors.

No way in hell would I do it to a street motor....
 
Glyptal is the stuff I remember people using.
And I too, would be curious how that holds up over time.
Sure as hell, plenty have done it for many years.
 
71beater said:
Glyptal is the stuff I remember people using.
And I too, would be curious how that holds up over time.
Sure as hell, plenty have done it for many years.
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I have considered it. The ratings by people that have used it are pretty good.

Expensive stuff though, like 55 bucks for a quart.
 
High temp primer followed by high temp clear works good.
 
Glyptal is the paint I use and have never had it peel up at all, I seen people use Rust Oleum red oxide primer long ago but I never did because years ago the formula changed and if you read the can it can't take the heat and it will come off as soon as the engine get any heat in it.
 
That's why you use high temp primer. VHT makes it that goes to 2K degrees as long as you prep it right.
 
Mine after 6,000 miles.
 

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RustyRatRod said:
Nope. I'm bankin on red primer. Glyptal is more red. Looks good....whatever it is.
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Yep, red oxide Rustoleum.

Clean and prep, prep, prep.

Powdered Laundry detergent shot through air gun, engine brush kit, straight water, presurized air dry, machined surfaces protected with Justice Brothers JB-80 spray to prevent flash rust.




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71beater said:
Glyptal is the stuff I remember people using.
And I too, would be curious how that holds up over time.
Sure as hell, plenty have done it for many years.
Click to expand...

Neighbor back in NJ that I helped with his drag car used this stuff in his motors. One of the blocks from his race car ended up in his street car....never had a problem with it. Key to it was to make sure that the block was surgically cleaned and dry.

Teds motor had Hamburger oil pan. Pan held 9 quarts. Motor spun 8300 rpm or so. Ted dropped the oil pump into the bottom of the pan. Left the pick up off. Welded a sump into the pan around the pump. Ran 4 quarts of oil. Full throttle had 15psi of oil pressure. Never had an oil related failure. I didn't believe him when he said this stuff worked as well as he did. Took an old block that was windowed from an aluminum rod that had a few to many passes. Poured some oil onto it right below the deck. Ran down the side of the block like water does on a fresh coat of wax....
 
Doesn't seem very popular these day for a street strip engine. Haven't heard many guys complaining about oil drain back. I would probably use the extra time into smoothing out casting flaws in the lifter valley area and the few extra dollars into better rods or pistons.
 
All engines are made differently, too. Some are not as blessed in the drain back department as others. Like the Ford Cleveland, for example. They need all the help they can get.
 
autoxcuda said:
Yep, red oxide Rustoleum.

Clean and prep, prep, prep.

Powdered Laundry detergent shot through air gun, engine brush kit, straight water, presurized air dry, machined surfaces protected with Justice Brothers JB-80 spray to prevent flash rust.




7553001-12_24_10Sm02.JPG


7553001-12_24_10Sm06.JPG


7151996-12_24_10Sm09.JPG
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How did you go about shooting the lady detergent?
 
When I worked at a machine shop back in the 60's and 70's, my boss always painted the inside of the race blocks and heads with Glyptal. He got it from a friend that owned an electric motor repair shop. The guy painted all the inside of the electric motors with the stuff. We never had a problem with it.

Russ.
 
I remember the stuff being damn near impossible to remove if the prep work was done correctly. NJ had banned caustic solutions in hot tanks in the early 80's. I do remember one of Ted blocks being ran thru a hot tank using a soap solution.....and not a single spot coming off...
 
Wonder if that stuff is as strong today as it was in the past with the EPA and all?
 
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