rust prevention...anybody try ones like this?
- Thread starter justcuz
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ramenth
Gratis persona
Used to have to install some of those at the dealerships I worked at. When the lot boy would be too busy with something else, it would get thrown to the techs who didn't have a lot going on.
I'll let you in on something: we used to put them on Fords and Mercurys (or is that Mercuries?) but couldn't put them on the Hyundais as it would void the Hyundai factory rust-through warranty.
The salesmen used to sell them to add to the commission on the car. That should tell you something.
I'll let you in on something: we used to put them on Fords and Mercurys (or is that Mercuries?) but couldn't put them on the Hyundais as it would void the Hyundai factory rust-through warranty.
The salesmen used to sell them to add to the commission on the car. That should tell you something.
JR
Pissed off senior member.
Electrolysis?
stevedemon340
Senior Member
My girlfriend had electrolysis! She NEVER rusts!!!!!!! Just kiddin' I've heard that they do that up north. Ask Ramenth
no1newb
Well-Known Member
could that possibly mess up a ground somewhere somehow? like if i have a ground to my fender wall and have this on the fender..
slantsixdan
=..=
DadGum_Teen
Well-Known Member
The only thing I've seen close to that is using electricity and chemicals to remove rust. Seen here http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
ramenth
Gratis persona
There was actually a couple of ways to wire the danged things in. Wire the ground to a body bolt or wire directly to the battery terminals.
Not such a biggy with our cars, but when the lot boys would wire to the battery terminals by just pulling the wires and wrapping around the terminal bolts instead of putting in a crimped eyelet, or my favorite: just loosening the terminals and slipping the bare wires in and retightening, it usually led to drivability issues later on down the road with power and ground being messed up when the bare wires started to corrode.
Which is funny when you think about it: a device which is meant to stop rust and corrosion is getting corroded. But I digress.
Nope, it's a scam. Nothing more than a way for the dealerships to pad the bill on a new car and the salesmen to pad the commission. Which shows you the average new car buyer isn't paying attention: these things cost money, added to the price of the car, is financed in or taken out of the down payment which leads to a higher financed price, spread over the length of the contract where the interest charges get you.
And considering every new car has a factory rust through bumper to bumper warranty, leave it to the factory to take care of a new car if it starts showing rust.
The best way to keep a car from rusting is still the old fashioned way: wash it. Thoroughly, top and bottom, inside the wheel wells, where crap tossed up by the tires likes to accumulate. And if it's one of our antiques, driven in the rust belt, don't drive it in the winter and wait until at least the third or fourth good rain in spring (so the salt gets washed off the roads) before you get it out.
crazybarracuda
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the only way to prevent rust is to allow rust to happen....... yes i will explain
this concept is used in water heaters to prevent the tank from rusting out. by placing a rod of metal that corrodes easier than what your protecting you have a sacrificial material that will corrode first. when that rod is completely corroded then the tank begins to rust.
this concept is used in water heaters to prevent the tank from rusting out. by placing a rod of metal that corrodes easier than what your protecting you have a sacrificial material that will corrode first. when that rod is completely corroded then the tank begins to rust.
340_dart_power
Well-Known Member
Same thing with boats;
"Since propellers, particularly bow thrusters, are immersed in water for all the time the boat is on water, propellers must be provided with a level of corrosion protection that is effective, inexpensive and easy for maintenance. Typically, the protection employed is cathodic, wherein corrosion that may attack a structure attacks instead an anode, rather than attacking the structure. The anode is typically (but not exclusively) made of zinc, which, due to a known electrochemical reaction, is corroded instead of the structure to be protected. The anode is called "sacrificial anode" in jargon, since it is designed to be worn out because of the electrochemical reaction, preventing corrosion of the structure to which the anode is electrically connected thereto. Once the sacrificial anode is worn out, it is replaced, protecting the structure from new corrosive attacks. The anode must be timely replaced, especially for immersed structures, such as propellers or the like, in order to prevent a corrosive attack on the structure, and a related weakening of the structure."
"Since propellers, particularly bow thrusters, are immersed in water for all the time the boat is on water, propellers must be provided with a level of corrosion protection that is effective, inexpensive and easy for maintenance. Typically, the protection employed is cathodic, wherein corrosion that may attack a structure attacks instead an anode, rather than attacking the structure. The anode is typically (but not exclusively) made of zinc, which, due to a known electrochemical reaction, is corroded instead of the structure to be protected. The anode is called "sacrificial anode" in jargon, since it is designed to be worn out because of the electrochemical reaction, preventing corrosion of the structure to which the anode is electrically connected thereto. Once the sacrificial anode is worn out, it is replaced, protecting the structure from new corrosive attacks. The anode must be timely replaced, especially for immersed structures, such as propellers or the like, in order to prevent a corrosive attack on the structure, and a related weakening of the structure."
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