66Dartdriver
Well-Known Member
You already know the answer. Sell it and move on to what you want. Never waste time doing what you dont want to do. its a 69 Dart it will sell in a heartbeat. buy what you want and start enjoying it.
Rust! Should I sell it?
- Thread starter standup303
- Start date
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If you can't or won't do the work, sell it to someone that will..
If we all gave up and sold cars because of rust, we'd have no cars.
It's all about choices, I suppose.
Or just plain drive it!
standup303
Well-Known Member
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I guess I am not a very smart man either. Because I do not understand what is going on here. The Op complains about the rust and is considering selling the car because of it.
1. What did you want when you were looking? Did you want a nice driver? Did you want a decent driver? Or did you want a project car?
2. Why did you buy a car with a medium amount of rust if you don't like rust?
3. You do realize that using a wire brush followed by "KBS Coat or Rust Bullet" is not fixing the rust. Slowing it down, perhaps, but not fixing it.
4. Also realize that there is always more rust than you can see. How carefully have you dug in to inspect for rust in places that could cause serious problems?
You were asked if you could do the rust repair yourself and did not answer. I assume you cannot.
I would sell it if I were you. It does not sound like you are motivated to properly fix the rust. It might be better to find a car with no rust.
1. What did you want when you were looking? Did you want a nice driver? Did you want a decent driver? Or did you want a project car?
2. Why did you buy a car with a medium amount of rust if you don't like rust?
3. You do realize that using a wire brush followed by "KBS Coat or Rust Bullet" is not fixing the rust. Slowing it down, perhaps, but not fixing it.
4. Also realize that there is always more rust than you can see. How carefully have you dug in to inspect for rust in places that could cause serious problems?
You were asked if you could do the rust repair yourself and did not answer. I assume you cannot.
I would sell it if I were you. It does not sound like you are motivated to properly fix the rust. It might be better to find a car with no rust.
@standup303 I’m not trying to insult, I just remembered your thread about how you just bought the car and was all excited. I don’t think you should worry about the little rust your car has. Live with it or have someone fix it. Or fix it yourself. I think you’ve got a really nice car.
standup303
Well-Known Member
I’m not super serious about selling it, more of a rant. I have a welder and have no issue cutting and fixing it. I didn’t find the rust until I got on my back in the trunk and looked at the underside of the package tray and then started stabbing around with a screw driver.
Sucks, I’m sure everyone wants a fully rust free old car, but is what it is. Plus I don’t have rust free car kinda money haha!
I appreciate the sense of humor, & wry "honesty", but I see it this way...FWIW..
1) If You're not a bodyman, & don't have the time & resources to learn, sell it if it's a model worth restoring.
2) If it's "just" a '69 Dart (non-GT/Swinger Slanty,273,318), the next owner may simply patch it up and make it a driver, and so can You.....if that works for You. Solid pop-rivet patches with most of the heavy rusted pieces cut out, & the rest treated, clean the undercoat off & lay fiberglass over the rough stuff after prepping. Make it fun to drive & enjoy. As long as the critical areas are solid or repaired proper, (torsion bar anchor member, frame rails/suspension mounting, front pillars, etc.), it can serve as a fun toy for years.
I have no idea what You paid, nor what Your expectations were, but this is where Your at....peace!
Lol, OK, nevermind post above...
In my early years I would just patch it with window screen wire and fiberglass epoxy mix. And then some putty to smooth it out, held for a good year or two just enough time to run the wheels off the car. At my age I would not consider buying a car in that condition. Nowadays I would just buy a good roller and work engine and drivetrain.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Thanks. That's great. It's just what I wanted to hear. I love doing major rust repair. It's kind of like therapy. Plus you get huge satisfaction when you are done. Dig in and fire up the welder. You won't be sorry. If you lived closer, I'd come over and help.
I would sell the rust and keep the rest....
standup303
Well-Known Member
im going to dig into over Xmas break. Anything that’s painted though is going to stay that way until further notice
That ain’t **** and if you really need to replace it with metal, I’m pretty sure metal is available to replace it.
Visit the northern territories! Then you’ll know what real rust is and know that the fellas up north will still fix them up.
standup303
Well-Known Member
How would you all go about fixing the package tray? I am not going to be pulling the rear window, this will all be done from underneath. Just cut, rebend some 20 gauge as best I can, re weld it in, then coat the whole tray in KBS?
Gonna be a b**ch from underneath.
Gonna be a b**ch from underneath.
I guess my question would be…..what are your plans for the car? Resto? Drive and enjoy? Race car? If you’re just going to drive and enjoy it, you don’t even need to fix that. Just put a new package tray liner on top and go about enjoying the car. If you’re going to restore the car, do it right. Drill out the spot welds, find a rust free package tray and weld it in. Hacking it in with some metal to me is an exercise in futility.
64mopar64
Active Member
That's what I did in 2016 after researching cost the Barracuda I wanted to build. 7 years later I bought a 67 Barracuda to rebuild. Your car is fixable.
standup303
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input, that’s why I always like posting up here. The car is just a driver, no plans ever for a show car or more
standup303
Well-Known Member
my plan is to wire wheel as much rust off as possible, cut and replace a few small spots that have actually rusted through the metal creating holes. Then apply Evaporust to the entire metal area.
When done I want to coat the entire trunk and undercarriage of the car. I like the KBS coating but I would want to top coat it because it only comes in shiny black.
Would epoxy primer be a good, easier option over the KBS coating?
When done I want to coat the entire trunk and undercarriage of the car. I like the KBS coating but I would want to top coat it because it only comes in shiny black.
Would epoxy primer be a good, easier option over the KBS coating?
You might have an easier time using Rust Mort on the area vs evaporust (unless they've changed it since I last used it). Also make sure to put a welding blanket on the back side of the glass if you're not going to pull it (helps to avoid pitting and in extreme cases broken window).
Deltatech
Well-Known Member
Keep it. You may not find another.
So far I've gotten 5 years out of using multiple coats of rust desolver, sanding and wirewheeling until it quit turning white between coats then spraying rust reformer in hard to reach areas to finally top off with roll on truck bed liner to seal it. I did the whole trunk,engine bay,floor pan and undercarrige and have only had to touch up a few spots after 5 years.
Mine is just a daily driver.
Don't plug up or filler the hole in the rear quarter and make sure the drain holes between the inner and outer are draining properly, if plugged they'll trap water and will cause more rust if you plug it.
I've also gotten 10+ years out of using fiberglass filler on 2-4 inch rust hole after grinding out ALL of the rust back to good metal then using multiple applications of the rust disolver before cleaning extreemly well and glassing it.
So far I've gotten 5 years out of using multiple coats of rust desolver, sanding and wirewheeling until it quit turning white between coats then spraying rust reformer in hard to reach areas to finally top off with roll on truck bed liner to seal it. I did the whole trunk,engine bay,floor pan and undercarrige and have only had to touch up a few spots after 5 years.
Mine is just a daily driver.
Don't plug up or filler the hole in the rear quarter and make sure the drain holes between the inner and outer are draining properly, if plugged they'll trap water and will cause more rust if you plug it.
I've also gotten 10+ years out of using fiberglass filler on 2-4 inch rust hole after grinding out ALL of the rust back to good metal then using multiple applications of the rust disolver before cleaning extreemly well and glassing it.
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