S/B stroker block prep

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lenweiler

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Ok. This is going to be an on-going issue, with a multitude of uninteresting pics. It will be slow, since parts are still arriving and work will progress slowly.
The (late) repro block is the basis of this build, but much of the modifications can be expected with the newer R3's. This block has the 4-bolt main caps, extra material around the pan rails, more material in the lifter areas, thicker decks, and thicker cylinder walls. Mostly on the thrust surfaces. Chrysler expanded the water jacketing also.
 
This block (like some early R's and repro's) had a hole in the oil filter cavity, where the oil passage is drilled for filter from the pump feed. Casting was so thin here, that we welded a solid plug in lieu of the filter nipple.

blockprep003.jpg


As a result we're now comitted to a remote oil filter. Not a bad idea anyway.
 
The upper hole is already tapped and also plugged, so now we will remove the plug and tie into the remote.

blockprep001.jpg


The lower hole is drilled out to accomidate a 3/8" NPT, an this will result in our return from the remote.

blockprep002.jpg
 
You'll notice that there is extra metal that was added to the block, just about everywhere, so grinding sharp flashings and edges will be an on-going thing until the block is finally delivered to the maching shop.
This engine will sport a roller cam so there are issues that must be addressed. These next 2 pics demonstrate where grinding will be needed to allow room for link bars on the roller lifters.

blockprep007.jpg


blockprep006.jpg


Now, there's still too much material in these areas, but when the rollers arrive, I'll grind off the rest. A word of caution. The water is just next door so grinding will be kept to a minimum. Shady Dell (Ryan Johnson) tells me that the earlier blocks are very thin here.
 
As I mentioned earlier, there is a whack of extra material added to the lifter gallery area. As a result steps must be taken to allow for the roller lifter bars, including milling material from the tops of the lifter bores, or, locating lifters that have the link bars raised above the standard height.
This pic, just of the relieving of the gallery area of all the flashing and smoothing for oil return. Not necessary but what the heck..........

blockprep005.jpg
 
Just a side shot of the extra material and the frost plugs. Since this engine will sport outside water lines, the centre frost plug/s will be removed and special fittings (courtesy SD) will be pressed in to allow AN fittings and braided lines. Outside cooling is an effective way to cool the rear cylinders that have a tendancy to run hotter than the front since the water rarely gets a chance to circulate rear-ward. And this is, afterall, an aluminum-headed, high compression engine. So cooling will want to be at an optimum.

blockprep004.jpg
 
lenweiler said:
Just a side shot of the extra material and the frost plugs. Since this engine will sport outside water lines, the centre frost plug/s will be removed and special fittings (courtesy SD) will be pressed in to allow AN fittings and braided lines. Outside cooling is an effective way to cool the rear cylinders that have a tendancy to run hotter than the front since the water rarely gets a chance to circulate rear-ward. And this is, afterall, an aluminum-headed, high compression engine. So cooling will want to be at an optimum.

blockprep004.jpg
Click to expand...

who is doing your block machining for you?and where?
 
Funny you should ask. My machinist died last year, and he was the only person I would trust with my stuff. I'm sure there's others as qualified. Before he passed on, he gave me a name of a man who he knew and trusted. Turns out, he's just down the road. Durham, Ont. Brian Ronick. Used to be the "block man" at Beatty and Woods in Toronto He'll be doing the bores, line hone and decking. Ryan J has done the top end.
 
Is anybody else not seeing the pictures? Len, for the rear water lines, you are tapping off the side of the block? I havent done them before, but all the pics I've seen draw off the water pump itself. I'd think thats the coolest water too.
 
Block relieving for lifters.........
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/zackweiler/block prep/blockprep007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/zackweiler/block prep/blockprep006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/zackweiler/block prep/blockprep004.jpg

As for the cooling lines, the water is pumped directly from the water pump to the centre frost plug hole. Wish I had the fittings to mock it now for you, but.......... The water pump is a circle track piece.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294838996+4294822066+400172+115&autoview=sku
Not exactly the one, but you get the idea.
 
Len the only pic I saw was from SUmmit...lol. Sorry it may be this work P/C and the huge firewall...I dunno.

I would think the best way would be to run one of those two fittings on the sides of the pump to a Y block, and then run one each to the front and rear water port on the heads. Any thoughts? The idea being cool the heads first...Then run two returns from the front of the block to the Tstat housing/water neck.
 
That pic from summit was only an example.The one from SD is similar. It was used on a Craftsman truck engine. the water exits either side of the pump (on the outside), and is directed to the centre frost plug hole. This seems to be the accepted manner. Heads coolant is much more direct this way. Much the same way as my W7's, coolant enters the head from centre and below, than exits the head from 3 holes per head. This coolant thing is a whole new frontier for me. I suppose if I wanted to get funky, I could exit each head via the casting hole, but I doubt there'd be much gain from that exercise. Scroll down near the bottom and left side.
http://www.shadydellspeedshop.com/w5.htm
 
I couldnt see what you're talking about, but there is one of a done 402" on Ryan's site, you can see what I meant. The lines are not in core holes, but plummed straight to the heads' water crossover ports. The rears are not connected in this pic, and you can see the small lines from between the chambers running down I beleive to the lower part of the block. these pull heat fromt he block first, then up out of the heads' crossovers into the water outlet/manifold/box thingy. I'm proposing reversing that using the water coming out of the sides of your pump, and running into one end of the heads, and the opposite ends running into the box.
 
Thanks Lars.
About the 402. I think you're looking at the return lines that all end in a box/thermostat housing. From there it goes to the rad. This is the accepted method using W7,8, and 9 heads. The electic water pump would not be my choice. Everyone has there own take on how to cool the engine. I have seen the reverse method but that wouldn't be my choice. But that's just me.
 
A couple more shots of the lifter valley. What I've done is add 6 drainback holes (3/8")for the oil that puddles around the lifters. These holes are in stock blocks but missing with the repro and R blocks.
blockprep001.jpg


blockprep004.jpg


Be careful here. You don't want to drill into the cam bearing journal, nor the oil gallery. Locate both before you drill.
blockprep002.jpg


I have radiused the holes after drilling, but still need to tidy things up with a polishing cone. Still considering drainback lines from the new W5's to the oil pan. But that may be overdoing it.
 
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