Safe-T-Cap frame repair

[Toolman]

Ok guys...I'm sure there are a lot of do it yourself and professional body men here (maybe some ladies too) who have tackled some bad rust on our beloved A-Bodies. Any one ever use or know someone that has used the safe-t-cap frame repair parts to repair their cars rusted unibody frame. Thumbs up or thumbs down? Thanks in advance for your advice and comments...there is definitely a wealth of knowledge here for sure!

 

[1994redram]

I've used the full rear frame rail cap from them on a 73 camaro i had. It fit great and the welds were nice. I stitch welded it to the remnants of the existing rail. The metal was THICK compared to the factory stuff. I would use them again if I needed to.

 

[moper]

I personally wouldn't use them if this is a specialty car - meaning one that you want to save. Caps do restore structural strength - but they are not as strong, nor do they stop the corrosion under/inside them. If this is a driver then go for it, but in my experience (especially in the northeast where rust is now the biggest issue) they are a stop-gap measure at best. I've found it better if the repair is to be permanent to simply repair the affected area either by fabbing repair parts or using repro parts and sectioning them in place to minimize the impact.

 

[Toolman]

The company "Auto Rust Technicians" that make the Safe-T-Rail spec the replacement caps at 11 guage (about 1/8")...that's pretty thick. Not sure what guage the factory frame rails are?

 

[NC Engine Builder]

i personally wouldn't use them if this is a specialty car - meaning one that you want to save. Caps do restore structural strength - but they are not as strong, nor do they stop the corrosion under/inside them. If this is a driver then go for it, but in my experience (especially in the northeast where rust is now the biggest issue) they are a stop-gap measure at best. I've found it better if the repair is to be permanent to simply repair the affected area either by fabbing repair parts or using repro parts and sectioning them in place to minimize the impact.

x2

 

[MOPARMITCH]

I used one on my 68 Numbers GTS car recently. I thought the rear section of the right front frame rail was ok, until It was blasted from the outside and I started poking around. Wasn't really horrible, but. I soon realized that I required better repair than just a few plates here and there. Outside was blasted bare, and I sprayed/pumped Rust Bullet on the inside. I think I paid $150 for the cap. It is very thick metal. Didn't measure the thickness. I'm sure that it will suffice for my car, since I plan on it being a driver. Here are some hard to see pics.

 

[BARNEY'S CAR]

I have used them and found them to be thicker steel then factory and fit very well. Rust from inside out is preventable on any metal with the proper prep. POR15 on the inside will stop chance of rust. Our cars did not have inside frame protection when built and most have made it this far. My 2 cents worth.

 

[Toolman]

Thanks!

 

[momoparman]

Pam's Jamaican Blu Baby is capped on both front stubs and the cross member. Its a vert and it is sturdy as hell. Whomever installed them did a great job and it's hard to tell now that I cleaned them up and undercoated the car. Minnesota car originally that was left for dead....still on the road 46 years later. :cheers:

 

[Toolman]

Nice ride...thanks for the reply.

 

[barbee6043]

I just finished using " my made" (homemade rear frame caps on a 62 lancer. I couldn't justify paying for original rails and freight from rust free area for this road toad. I had local wholesale steel co. that also does metal breaking, make me some 14 ga. "L" shaped pieces. price of the steel bent was like $40., most of that cost was the labor to cut and bend.
just rear rails affected. partially rusted out on bottoms only. I stitch welded to the sides of the rails, making cuts and bending for the radius above rear axle area took some time but worked out well I thought. I sprayed Ospho in the rails, I will epoxy prime and paint all, then undercoat. it will be fine for me...
if this had been a rare, maybe valuable " show" car. I would have spent all the $$$ and time doing the original frame rail replacement, BUT it ain't and it will be just a decent home done driver!
I cured myself of " perfect-it is" many years ago! LOL

 

[sireland67]

I used one on the front frame rail of my Duster, it fit decent, needed minor work to get it to fit really nice.