Saftey equipment for 10s ?

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AdamR

AdamR

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Whats needed to pass tech for a 10 second car ? I have the battery and fuel cell in the trunk. I want to make sure this thing is legal.
 
I think window net, aftermarket dampner, tranny sheild, an flywheel shield.
I think that is the stuff I had to have when I went Super Street racin.
 
I think window new it 9.90s when you need a full cage. high 10s you only need a 8 point bar. I think I need SFI approved belts though.
 
I dont remember, maybe someone will chime in that has a rule book.
 
Axles, drive shaft loop, SFI 16.1 seat belts,fire extinguisher,SFI 29.1 flex plate,SFI 18.1 balancer,SN 90 helmet, master kill switch,SFI 3.2A/1 Jacket,Roll cage on cars with modified floor and or firewall, 6 point cage with stock floors and firewall,SFI 4.1 trans shield, window net on cars with a full cage.

All this stuff has been checked on my car at one point or another except for the flex plate. How are they supposed to see that?
 
Well I have the killswitch, flexplate and driveshaft loop. This going fast is gonna be $$$, but its gonna be fun !
 
LOL $$$. It seems that everything boils down to money. In this case it is worth every penny.
 
It only fun when it runs. My junk is always broke :walk:
 
It depends on what organization you race under ....IHRA or NHRA I have the new IHRA rulebook if it helps ya
 
The stuff i posted was out of the 2005 IHRA rule book. I started posting it out of my head but didn't want to make a mistake and give false info. NHRA is the same for these times.
 
You'll also have to have metal valve stems, the rubber ones will not pass below 11.99. The belts can't be more than 2 years old either. You can use a tranny blanket as fitting a shield under the stock tunnel is a PITA. I did it but had to space the shield down with aluminum blocks 1 inch. You can't modify the shield in anyway. My engine and trans are set back about an inch too though. After this year I believe the Snell 95 helmets are no longer allowed. 10 years is, I believe, the limit on those. You will also need at least 3/8 bolts for hold downs on the battery, your kill switch will also have to work, in other words you'll need a relay in the alternator feed to keep it from feeding back and keeping the car running, they'll test it at about 3000 RPM's. A positive reverse lock out on the shifter also is needed unless (I think) it's still stock. I'm not totally sure on that but it's a good idea to have one anyway.

If the battery or any part of the fuel system are in the trunk you'll need a rear firewall that is completely sealed from the passenger compartment. If you just have the battery alone in the trunk then an approved battery box will do.

Can't find my NHRA rule book at the moment, I'll keep looking though.
 
I might add that I don't think 450 horsepower will get you in the 10's unless you are considering a 200 shot of nitrous.
 
adam,
if it were me doing what your doing,i would put some slicks on it and go racing to see WHAT it will run 1st!!

THEN go from there....it may only go mid-low 11's.....if it goes better then 11.49 then you'll need a rollbar IF you plan on racing it all the time but i would see what it does 1st.
 
G.J, it put out 450 horse last time it was dynoed. Its since had more port work and another .5 point of compression. the motor was in a 3500lb B body and was running 11.60. I'd be happy with mid 11s but since you cant be to safe I figured I'd build for the 10s.
 
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