sand blasting

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Years ago, I had a pro sandblast guy, lift the car up ( usually a roller) with his boon truck, he laid on his back (and blasted and cussed alot!)
That guy was a hoot and an expert at sand blasting.. One he did was a 69 Roadrunner, I had the hood in back of the truck, and he tells me he can blast it and not worp it. I almost called him a lier, but he was big and one mean sob it seemed. Well I let him blast it and NO worping! But otherwise, I just had him do the bottoms.
 
What was the old "prep sol* made of? Was that a phosphorus solvent? This was a Dupont product from back in the day.
Its been too many years since I was involved in painting cars. I remember Centari, imron (never used that though) prep sol and "3812" thinner ...
 
Be careful of any phosphoric acid solution, as there can possibly be reactions. I have had reactions months later. I have had auto paint company tech guys recommend neutralizing it with a last application WET and do not let it dry, since with water,,,,, yea such can flash rust.
I usually apply several wet applications, let each dry a day before the next coat, and next day neurtalize.
 
What is the CFM @ 90 rating on your compressor?

It would have to be at least a 20hp (15kW) motor to get near 90cfm at 100psi. So many air compressor manufactures embellish their cfm ratings…. It’s pretty well impossible to get more than 4cfm/hp@100psi from an air compressor, especially if it’s a single stage. If it’s two stage and has intercooling, then over 4cfm/hp @100psi is possible. Oh, and what is the elevation the compressor is operating at?

That would be pretty impressive if folks have a 20hp compressor in their garage!!
 
It would have to be at least a 20hp (15kW) motor to get near 90cfm at 100psi. So many air compressor manufactures embellish their cfm ratings…. It’s pretty well impossible to get more than 4cfm/hp@100psi from an air compressor, especially if it’s a single stage. If it’s two stage and has intercooling, then over 4cfm/hp @100psi is possible. Oh, and what is the elevation the compressor is operating at?

That would be pretty impressive if folks have a 20hp compressor in their garage!!


Speaking to the OP.

You've misread my question.

CFM rating @ 90 PSI was the question.

I guess I assumed the "@90" part would be read as 90 PSI.

Under 10 is virtually useless to blast anything larger than a bracket.

Over 12 starts to get expensive, real fast.
 
I don't have a forklift like some guys around here ( :) ) but with a roller or a shell it's pretty easy to do with a cherry picker (engine hoist). You might have to do it in stages, just so the angle doesn't get too crazy sitting on barrels as the other end goes up.


Body lift bracket kit

junkerup.jpeg
 
And the media will forever come out of the hidden places forever. I have a Road Runner that was sand blasted at some time, I have tried to blow it out of the rocker panels, but way too much of it is still in there, it's sort of set up. Good thing the car never gets wet.
 
No wonder places like rockers rot out so bad.... If the sand got in (and trapped) when they sit out and it rains water apparently will too. So definitely need to get in there and prime/ undercoat the snot out of those areas while dry. Have to get some of those plugs like ziebart used to have, drill in an inconspicuous spot and spray oil, tar, something like that inside of there ..
Maybe you could drill like that enough to get an air wand in there, blow out and coat then pop a plug in there. Wouldn't be assembly line "correct" but if you do say the back of the inner rockers nobody would see them....
If someone bitches call it a "day 2" mod
 
I may consider that. It's an old race car, I think. It's always something!
 

I hired a mobile blasting guy for my Duster and he used the crushed glass on it. I think it cost me around $600 total and the guy did an excellent job! That said I wasn't blasting the entire car just the inside and the bottom of it as I wanted to keep the original patina paint. It helps that he was a car guy himself so he was extra thorough. Once the guy was done blasting he also used his industrial compressor to help blow out the remaining media. After he left I flipped the car back and forth on the rotisserie cleaning more media out of it with my compressor and leaf blower. Then I rolled it back in the garage, prepped it and shot epoxy primer on the bare metal sealing it before it could rust. The biggest PITA was cleaning up all the media from the drive way. Thankfully I have good understanding neighbors!

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$600? Well worth it. I got a quote 10+ years ago for $1,800 and it'll be on a rotisserie. Been thinking of chemical dipping. I believe Graveyard Cars and Kendigit Customs dips their cars. I may be wrong but at least one of them does. My cars are rustproofed so am unsure if sandblasting will remove that sticky stuff.
 
I got a quote for $750 to do an 85 d150 that's in pieces... Bed cab doors fenders hood everything if I truck it up about 45 minutes away. Another $150 if he comes to me. I wasn't gonna do the frame I don't know how much more that would be, I was gonna just hit that with a needle scaler where it needs it but might change my mind by spring. I was told to call back in the spring as their process also uses water with the blasting material and they have everything drained down right now for the winter.
I have since discovered another dustless blasting place that's only 5 miles away, at a place where I used to know someone that worked at, though I don't think the guy I knew is still there it seems everyone else i talk to knows someone there and tells me "mention their name, they'll take care of you". I knew this place did welding and major fabrication I didn't know they did dustless blasting as well. I think it's something new they got into. So even if they're $900 it'll not be any more than having the other place come down and do my truck. Definitely save me a ton of time as they assure me it'll all be bare metal in a day at most... Compared thow long I'd have to be at it with my compressor and a DA .. it'll be done a lot faster.
 
Sounds like that will be pretty handy for you. Do you know how those type of places do the frame and underside when you are just a roller not torn apart?
 
My understanding is that the factory dipped these bodies ion a vat of primer, up so far. Was it about a foot or so above bottoms of doors???? I forget.
Years ago I have sandblasted undersides of cars or chemical dipped hoods. The part that always worried me was getting primer back onto those "cleaned" parts.
I have always said, most of our cars sheetmetal rusts out from the INSIDE> But I have never lived in the damned rust belt either!
 
there's been many documented issues with rust in dipped cars showing up some time after paint and in places where there was none before. like out of body seams etc. if the dipper also does the electrostatic (?) primer dip after stripping then all those inner cavities stand a good chance of lasting. if not i wouldn't risk it myself.
neil.
 
My understanding is that the factory dipped these bodies ion a vat of primer, up so far. Was it about a foot or so above bottoms of doors???? I forget.
Years ago I have sandblasted undersides of cars or chemical dipped hoods. The part that always worried me was getting primer back onto those "cleaned" parts.
I have always said, most of our cars sheetmetal rusts out from the INSIDE> But I have never lived in the damned rust belt either!
If that's true then why is that exactly what rots out?
 
If that's true then why is that exactly what rots out?
Trunk extensions, bottoms of doors, dog leg of fenders, etc. You get some dirt, debris inside with moisture, and starts to rust, then a pinhole, and from there rusted out holes. Floors rust from topside not bottoms. The exception probably is the darn RUST BELT cars!!! But I have been wrong before!!!! :poke: :thumbsup: :poke:
 
$600? Well worth it. I got a quote 10+ years ago for $1,800 and it'll be on a rotisserie. Been thinking of chemical dipping. I believe Graveyard Cars and Kendigit Customs dips their cars. I may be wrong but at least one of them does. My cars are rustproofed so am unsure if sandblasting will remove that sticky stuff.
Absolutely I thought so. I'm sure its probably more expensive now but again I wasn't blasting the entire car. Also before I had it blasted I used a putty knife and torch to remove all the factory undercoating.
 
I guess locating and calling a business that does dipping would be the way to find more info. I'm hoping that they would dip it into a neutralizer of some sort right after. Something like a chrome shop does between soaking. BTW, any recommendations on chrome shops on the west coast? I used a company in LA only to find out it surfaced rusted badly on a covered car in a enclosed garage. Really sad after 5 years. Factory bumpers still shining like new after 50-60 years in the same condition.
 
Just had my 68 quoted to be dipped. Roughly $2100 to dip just the body. Another $165-190 each for doors, fenders, hood and truck. I already have all the undercoated off the car as well.

They also offer to e-coat dip the car after. Another $2100 for the car and $165 for the extras.

They say they normally do it in two steps. Do the first dip and send the car back to have all the metal work done. Then dip the car again to clean the metal again before e-coat.

I'm in the process of chemical stripping the car of as much pant as i can and getting all my metal work done. Then hopping to have them re-quote for just a quick drip and e-coat. Wish me luck!!
 
Just had my 68 quoted to be dipped. Roughly $2100 to dip just the body. Another $165-190 each for doors, fenders, hood and truck. I already have all the undercoated off the car as well.

They also offer to e-coat dip the car after. Another $2100 for the car and $165 for the extras.

They say they normally do it in two steps. Do the first dip and send the car back to have all the metal work done. Then dip the car again to clean the metal again before e-coat.

I'm in the process of chemical stripping the car of as much pant as i can and getting all my metal work done. Then hopping to have them re-quote for just a quick drip and e-coat. Wish me luck!!
I hope that car is worth the #$ spent!! Nice to know the costs anyway.
 
blasted my entire valiant on in my garage using some heavy duty jack stands. used black beauty on the entire car. no warping at all, have blasted a few cars this way. get ready to be covered in sand..... after this one I got smart and built a rotisserie. so much easier. dont stay in one spot for long, sweep the section side to side or top to bottom when blasting. best thing we did was add a section of pipe to the end of the blaster. allows you to stand a foot or more away and sweep the panel.
 
^^^^ Bad decades ago, when I had some blasted, it was H*** getting all that sand OUT!!!
I admit I love working with clean metal and hate rust!! Good thing I never lived in a rust belt!!

My downfall is I have never taken the time to take hundreds of pics as I work to prove all that I do!!
 
I hope that car is worth the #$ spent!! Nice to know the costs anyway.
I am on the fence on spending the money. The car is in great shape but has a fair amount of surface rust in areas that cant be reached. For the amount of mouse house stuff i pulled out of the rockers was crazy, how do people get in there and seal up those areas? I would hate to spend a bunch of money on a paint job only to have issues down the road.
I told my self If i keep track of the money spent on this project i would regret it. So i try not to think about it. Just enjoy the time spent out in the garage working on it.
 
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