Sandin A/C and compact P/S pump brackets

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The most common current Sandens are SD7H15. The H14 is less displacement, but the body is the same size. The SD7H13 is probably the shortest (vaguely recall an H12, but same body). The distance between the mounting flanges is shorter in the H13, but ~1", as is the whole body. Otherwise, the flanges are the same. Download the Sanden pdf manual for all info. I think the H13 was used in smaller cars like a Honda Civic. I put an H13 in my 1964 Valiant slant six, on custom brackets I fabbed. I actually have room for an H15, but would now need spacers to mount one. Anyway, that car is a little early-A convertible, so what works in a Civic should suffice. The compressor will run more often but more efficient anyway. No reason to buy compressors from Vintage at high prices. I buy them on ebay, in winter when cheap. I also make my own hoses (Mastercool crimper and/or Oeticker earless step clamps).

I don't see a problem mounting the compressor down low. My Chrysler minivans are like that, like many cars. That is better to keep the oil in the compressor where needed. Indeed, many people suggest that Harrison R4 compressors in many Chevy's fail because mounted high, plus they don't have a sump for oil. My M-B uses the R4 and it lasts much longer mounted down low.
 
round 2.....switching to a 3 groove crankshaft pulley

I'm looking at....
leaving the alternator running directly off the first (inner) groove of the crankshaft pulley (like the factory set up). The alternator doing the belt tightening
running the power steering pump off the second (middle) groove of the crankshaft pulley and the water pump. The P/S pump mount is slotted for belt tightening.
running the A/C compressor directly off the third (outer) groove of the crankshaft pulley. A idler will handle the belt tightening.

This configuration will put plenty of belt on the pulleys.

pictures coming soon.

estimated introductory priced....
A/C brackets w/ idler.......$129 shipped in the continental USA
P/S bracket.....................$89 shipped in the continental USA

both w/ idler..................$199 shipped in the continental USA
 
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crankshaft pulleys....an SWAG says yes,

I'm using a factory 3 groove from a 318 factory A/C car on this build. First 2 grooves line up with the 2 groove I was using from a 360 non A/C car, just has an third groove added at the front.

We are using 3 March pulleys (High Water flow #10270) with a 3 groove crank pulley on the other 408 stroker Butch is building. factory replacement....just lighter...and pretty.
 
HemiDenny said:
estimated introductory priced....
A/C brackets w/ idler.......$129 shipped in the continental USA
P/S bracket.....................$89 shipped in the continental USA

both w/ idler..................$199 shipped in the continental USA
Click to expand...

Denny -
Your post #46 mentioned either aluminum or steel. Is your intro pricing steel or aluminum?
Thanks
 
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ready for prime-time.....in aluminum

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ocdart said:
Denny -
Your post #46 mentioned either aluminum or steel. Is your intro pricing steel or aluminum?
Thanks
Click to expand...

aluminum......BTW, I'm only making them in aluminum. It is a minor difference in price, the benefit out- weights the cost .....well, in this case the benefit weights less....get it?
 
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nice. i like everything gets it's own belt. easier to mix and match. are you making the crank and water pump pulleys or March, ect? water pump and crank 1-1?
 
they are CVF pulleys / hi flow. This particular street build is naturally an A/C car, so I like to keep the coolant flowing maximum. Ended up with a 4-groove on the crankshaft, using the outer 3 and a double on the water pump. I tried the 3 groove, but realized it would be beneficial to not cram everything in so tight. I'll remove the very inner portion of the first groove before powder coat.
 
built some extra if anyone is interested . About half of what you see is either spoken for ...or already in use.

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I'm liking the set up but I have one question do you think it would all fit with the battery in the stock location or does the battery need to be moved to the trunk
 
hemi446 said:
I'm liking the set up but I have one question do you think it would all fit with the battery in the stock location or does the battery need to be moved to the trunk
Click to expand...

From initial measurements, in factory form, yes, the tray and battery would likely need relocated. It is not the battery that is so much the offender, is the tray. If set on leaving the battery up front, maybe shorten the tray. I notice the tray appears over-sized with today's physically smaller batteries.

IMO if someone was looking to reduce weight on the nose, moving the battery to the trunk would be #1 on the list. The aluminum bracketed compact P/S pump and Sundin compressor would be #2 and #3.
 
HemiMark version .....Mark is not running a conventional small block water pump and using the lower water pump mount attaching point is difficult.

on this picture you can see the banana hole for the adjustment of the (not installed) idler

20200828_131302.jpg
 
Denny. I have a manual steering car and was wondering if the compressor would fit under the tray?
 
While I do not presently have an A body with a battery tray to test ,...by comparing the location of the crankshaft pulley with the compressor, I would say the compressor will clear just fine.
 
Thanks very much. Looking at the pictures it looked like it mite clear but better to ask even if the answer is maybe
 
thanks for the question. I emptied the HDK test mule out today and will install the engine w/ my dummy trans / and K in the morning....I'll add a battery tray and see what we got.

from there, the combo will go on my run stand to check for leaks before it gets broke down for a fresh paint job on the long block and bellhousing.

had to empty it soon enough, I have a customer wants me to try to fit his diesel with an HDK in an A body.
 
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A/C compressor fits sweet under the battery tray. I'll make an optional water pump bracket to locate the P/S pump higher and inward so the P/S pump can be installed....... with or with out the battery tray

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i wish you'd stop making these things look so good. seriously thinking of moving my compressor now...
HemiDenny said:
they are CVF pulleys
Click to expand...
just realized my question sucked too, will these work with stock pulleys?
 
kursplat said:
i wish you'd stop making these things look so good. seriously thinking of moving my compressor now...
just realized my question sucked too, will these work with stock pulleys?
Click to expand...

ooops, just saw this, sorry for the late reply.

likely depends on if you have the needed amount of grooves. I have a very limited selection of pulleys and had to buy what you see. BTW, I bought the h-flow version crankshaft pulley for A/C application.

the CVF are factory replacement pulleys, no-one I checked with makes custom application pulleys, only shiny, lightweight, pretty replacement ones....2 groove on the water pump, 4 groove on the crank. I use the outer three grooves on the crank. The pulleys were less than $200 shipped direct from CVF
 
Hey Denny.
Did you have to notch the sub frame to clear the mounting hole ear on the compressor?
Can't tell for sure in the picture.
 
no notching for the A/C compressor. The notch you see in the frame-rail by the rear A/C compressor ear is to accommodate the Hemi motor plates when I was mocking up the Hemi for the Flash.
 
for those interested, asking questions...... so you do not need to search
 
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