SB or BB a body debate

SB 408/440 stroker or a BB 383/440

  • SB stroker

    Votes: 198 61.3%
  • BB setup

    Votes: 125 38.7%

  • Total voters
    323
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zac_F71

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REALLY need help from some mopar guys- I'm debating on a stroked (408 or 440) small block or a 383 or 440 big block

I have the 360 (79 block) and a SB 727 that will be slated if I go the SB route

I also have a BB727 if I go that route but no motor yet BUT I found a 383 block for $100 local

SO what should I do???????????????????

please help me decide-

SB stroker pro's - bolts in with off the shelf parts (mounts/headers/ect/) - is much lighter (bonus for my options devoid Demon)
con's - (I'm thinking 550+hp) - could have short life span- I don't want to "freshen up" the motor every end of season just to keep the motor running good- flat tappet cam...

BB pro's - same HP numbers as SB with a milder build - that's about all I can think of - slant 6 wiring is almost plug and play
con's- custom headers - notching the K member for the oil pump - custom drive shaft (both combo's will need this so that is expected) -

feel free to post pro and cons of either setup that I haven't yet
 
I voted sm. blk....much easier to work on imo. Bigger question might be what are you expecting from the car, street only, street strip, race only, record setter:). Are you gonna add some frame work, remove inner fenders...etc. A little more info. would help.
 
Actually,what do you want to do for traction,what is your budget for the project? SBM strokers are pricey,did one a few years ago.With what I know now,I would do a low deck 451,with the Eddy Victor heads.The airflow offsets the 100 to 150 lb offset,IF YOU SET UP THE CHASSIS RIGHT. That is from a purely straightline concept,of course.
 
street/drag car (a street legal drag car) is my plan with it- SFC's, 6pt cage with door bars (dad's handicapped), it's getting a 68 B body 8 3/4 swap right now, don't want to remove the fender wells, just a general stiffening of the chassis oh and a 275/60 MT drag radial

ANY stroker is pricy- (just did a quick Ebay search and added up a decent amount of parts at $2,700- rotating ***/ RHS magX iron heads/ MP flat tappet cam)I would have to sell/part out my 350hp aluminum headed 83 Mustang- of coarse machine work will be in the $350 range (my block is clean and bored .030" and has pretty much all new internal parts) so I think I would be ahead so to speak with the small block at $3,500 or so for a long block capable of 550+hp
 
BB, get a block that was design for extra stroke. The deck height is higher for a good reason--so the pistons can have a real skirt and not rock as much
 
I see I could probably get close the $5k for the parts on my stang- a little less if I keep the Weld's and the 3" exhaust...
 
street/drag car (a street legal drag car) is my plan with it- SFC's, 6pt cage with door bars (dad's handicapped), it's getting a 68 B body 8 3/4 swap right now, don't want to remove the fender wells, just a general stiffening of the chassis oh and a 275/60 MT drag radial

ANY stroker is pricy- (just did a quick Ebay search and added up a decent amount of parts at $2,700- rotating ***/ RHS magX iron heads/ MP flat tappet cam)I would have to sell/part out my 350hp aluminum headed 83 Mustang- of coarse machine work will be in the $350 range (my block is clean and bored .030" and has pretty much all new internal parts) so I think I would be ahead so to speak with the small block at $3,500 or so for a long block capable of 550+hp

Thanks for the reply Zac. I'll still vote sm.blk even though a BB will probably be a little more forgiving at the same power level. I don't see you putting a whole lot of street miles on a car like this so i believe a sm.blk put together right could give you several years of service without a complete overhaul. Either way you go i'm in...and we'll need lots of pictures:D
 
Do a 408.The cool thing about a 408 over a 360,you will not give it enough intake port.You will NEED worked heads.Look for 265 to [email protected] on the intake port.Run a flat tappet solid,if on a budget .Split pattern about 255 to 260 @ .050.Run a tight 3000 to 3500 converter,and 3.55 or 3.91s.Put you right at the high 10s to low 11s mark.
 
Thanks for the reply Zac. I'll still vote sm.blk even though a BB will probably be a little more forgiving at the same power level. I don't see you putting a whole lot of street miles on a car like this so i believe a sm.blk put together right could give you several years of service without a complete overhaul. Either way you go i'm in...and we'll need lots of pictures:D
that's exactly it - a weather permitting car- only driven in the rain if we got caught in the rain
 
Do a 408.The cool thing about a 408 over a 360,you will not give it enough intake port.You will NEED worked heads.Look for 265 to [email protected] on the intake port.Run a flat tappet solid,if on a budget .Split pattern about 255 to 260 @ .050.Run a tight 3000 to 3500 converter,and 3.55 or 3.91s.Put you right at the high 10s to low 11s mark.
here is the parts I searched and choose-

heads which are built to order-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16043615584...47&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

this cam-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/39042545990...02&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

this rotating assem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/29063558622...20&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr
 

I'm sure your gonna get alot of opinion on these, especially the heads. Your definately headed in the right direction. Thought it was kinda funny they have a make offer option on the heads and rotating assy. I'll give you $50 bucks....lol
 
I'd go big block, a 0.060" 383 is only 13 CID smaller than 408 sb can be stroked to almost 500 with out much work but I'd start with a 400 block bigger bore.
 
On the cam,Sweet choice! Nice and safe.As for clearing the block,the Scats usually clear.Mock it up,.060"clearance between rod and bottom of bore.The big killer,find a local shop,have it really balanced.They do a rough balance set,you want someone that will say "yes" to a gran or so.Feeding this thing airflowwise can be hard.If I did another,I like used W2s,if you can afford it.Eddys are a bolt on,they need a ton of port work,to feed one.
 
By the way,check your local mopar dealership.In my experiences(on the cams),dealers are cheaper than Scummitt, or Juggs.Check it out,at least,no freight.
 
either do a 440 and go for the 512/528 kit or do a 451...

this is a 512ci RB i built in HS... has the victor heads, small cam for now but still over 550 hp... eventually will be injected and a big solid roller for the AWB...

and no i will not be using those headers... they just keep the dirt out...
 

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either do a 440 and go for the 512/528 kit or do a 451...

this is a 512ci RB i built in HS... has the victor heads, small cam for now but still over 550 hp... eventually will be injected and a big solid roller for the AWB...

and no i will not be using those headers... they just keep the dirt out...

I agree with the 383. but stroke it to 440 cubes

Fits better than an rb

gd luck

Rick
 
I voted for the small block. Why go for the extra weight on the front end.
Can make the same amount of power with the smaller version.
just my 2 cents worth.
 
Actually,low deck71 to 74. 400 has moe meat in the main webs,watched my boss fit a set of Pro-Gram main caps,12 hour fit,but it is so sweeeetttt sounding at 12 to 1!
 
Real eye opener article in one of the magazines recently about IMM doing a stock stroke 400 that put out some pretty impressive numbers. Being that he's got a 408 in his own car, I'd sure be wanting to get Brian's opinion about it before getting too committed one way or the other. Maybe he'll chime in here before the thread dies.
 
Without consideration for your budget, power and requirements, originality,etc. I would say a big block. The big block is a better designed engine with the external pump, front distributor, intake design, etc, etc. A low deck stroker is great for an A body too. With a low deck you get some extra header room. Just my $0.02
 
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