SB standard or billet starter ?

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Bewy said:
I would NOT use a bush. That hole is larger.....for a good engineering reason. The starter has a three point mounting: nose fits into a machined recess + two fasteners.
The hole is enlarged so that the fastener for that hole can find it's own centre, to allow for manufacturing tolerances. Bushing the hole for a tight fit may stress the metal....& break the starter nose. When the fastener is adequately torqued, there is no need for a bush because the starter cannot move.
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I get what you're saying but there's still some slop in the bushing that I made. Definitely lining up correctly and not stressing the snout at all. Chrysler didn't engineer the starter to be high torque with 4:1 gear reduction either so some changes made to better fit the differences.
 
JDMopar said:
That sounds great, but just when you get to it. Ace Hardware has all kinds of bronze bushings, so maybe I can get one there to modify.

:thumbsup:
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The one I got was actually a metric bushing that I split, then squeezed together and slid into the hole. It then stung tight so it doesn't move around at all. There is still some clearance from the stud so there is still slight adjustability in the setup.
 
-Boosted- said:
It's not to keep the bolt tight, although that is obviously important. It's to prevent the starter from moving due to the torque generated from the gear reduction. Imagine the body of the starter shifting (from torque) and the snout remaining stationary in the receiver end of the bellhousing. The result of this is a broken snout.
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Just made me one for when new starter comes in thanks.
 
You guys would crap if you saw what I’ve had to do over the years running powerglides and adapters. Many of my starters have the nose cut off completely.
 
pittsburghracer said:
You guys would crap if you saw what I’ve had to do over the years running powerglides and adapters. Many of my starters have the nose cut off completely.
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Any pics of the crap you used to do lol. love some backyard Enginuity
 
Just a heads up to those worried about that big mounting hole. This is what locates the starter

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John, what kind of starter is that? One for a 5.7 Hemi truck with no nose on it? The lip you spoke of....is that semi circle at the base or the nose that goes into the locating hole on the bellhousing? We all use different terminology for the same stuff, so just making sure I understood what you were speaking of.
 
I've used factory mini's on everything I've owned, built, and raced for decades. I've had a couple spares in my trailer and shop, and never needed them.
 
JDMopar said:
John, what kind of starter is that? One for a 5.7 Hemi truck with no nose on it? The lip you spoke of....is that semi circle at the base or the nose that goes into the locating hole on the bellhousing? We all use different terminology for the same stuff, so just making sure I understood what you were speaking of.
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I always just ask for a starter for a 95-96 dodge truck with a V8 engine (3 speed wipers, just kidding). My friend at the track needed one without a nose so we crudely hurried up and cut the nose off between rounds. Yes the locating lip is the semi circle.
 
MMissile said:
I've used factory mini's on everything I've owned, built, and raced for decades. I've had a couple spares in my trailer and shop, and never needed them.
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I've done the same thing. The dude at the parts place asked me once, "How damn many 92 Dodge vans with a 5.2 Magnum do you own?!" LOL. I got a tip from someone on here to use a starter from a 2005 Dodge truck with a 5.7 Hemi and a manual transmission instead. They bolt right on, but the solenoid is clocked differently and fits better with headers. I'm gonna try one on my 65 Barracuda with Dougs Headers to see.
 
I used to know the measurements of the starters that I wanted now I can just look at the back and tell the higher horsepower units. If you aren’t sure on that google it and you will probably find the measurements easily
 
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