SB vs BB who wins?

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Just a reminder of how pathetic most of todays big block builds are.
1974 duster
Stock crank,
.030 TRW heavy azz pistons
Stock rods
906 cast iron heads
9.82 quarter mile times

View attachment 1716181670
Might be if you get to 9s 10s with a small block you know what your doing and weeded out the ones that don't but the big block guys you got a mixture of competent and non competent, some getting there brute strength even with a terriblely mix matched combos.
 
......and still have more stroke, and less cubes than a 400bb. Why do you think the small block with a 3.79 stroke can out rev a 400 with a 3.38 stroke, and a bigger bore for more valve area and head flow?
Because dude's drank the Kool aid hard core
 
You should be able to take a 400 short block bore install 10.5:1 pistons topped with 240 or 270 heads and a 250 ish solid roller cam etc.. and it would be somewhat harder to build a similar powered 408.
Now if you took that extra effort into the 400 as now the 408 and built a B1 or similar type etc..
 
This is todays racers thinking
Put nitrous on it
Put a turbo on it
Mmmm super charger
If it don’t run power adder time.
 
......probably cause you can slap a turbo on a 5.3 LS, and make the same power as a 600" big block chevy..... for about a quarter of the money.




...for a little while anyway. Five laps?
But the junkyards are filled with more.
 
But the junkyards are filled with more.
I wonder if Richard Holdener has done a completely dirt cheap turbo build, a 5.3 straight from the junkyard, open the rings, and a $600 Ebay chinese turbo kit. 600hp for $2000?
I'm betting he has, but he has so much content, I wouldn't know how to find it.
Edit: sorry guys for the detour. Now back to your regularly scheduled debate......
 
......probably cause you can slap a turbo on a 5.3 LS, and make the same power as a 600" big block chevy..... for about a quarter of the money.




...for a little while anyway. Five laps?

With the right tune, It will be a hell of a lot more power than that 600 in, and believe you me, it can last more than five laps.
 
This is todays racers thinking
Put nitrous on it
Put a turbo on it
Mmmm super charger
If it don’t run power adder time.
It's kind of hard to argue with the numbers. No amount of money spent on a NA combo is going to match even a pretty mild turbocharged setup.
 
I wonder if Richard Holdener has done a completely dirt cheap turbo build, a 5.3 straight from the junkyard, open the rings, and a $600 Ebay chinese turbo kit. 600hp for $2000?
I'm betting he has, but he has so much content, I wouldn't know how to find it.
Edit: sorry guys for the detour. Now back to your regularly scheduled debate......

He has done that every which way you can imagine.

Hell he put that GT45 on a motorhome 440.
 
Think he's trying to compare cid in different b/s/r ratios so 408 vs 400, he did give a 413 as an option 3.75 crank and still a better size.
Exactly.

Also, people like to poo poo the 413 because of the " small " bore. But there's been many hard running 413s to be sure.
 
Against a 400, I'd save the money for the stroker kit and put it towards W heads...
 
But you don't have to spend the coin for all the stroker stuff. All comes down to heads, combination and the stronger block.
Yeah what I was gettin at is, the 451 using stock factory stuff and off the shelf pistons. On the cheap. But it's his thread.
 
Because dude's drank the Kool aid hard core

Again, you don’t have a clue. Like I said, geometry matters.

The deck is way too tall even on a B engine for that short stroke. Ever consider ring seal?

So I’ll do a 3.5 inch stroke small block and turn it 8k. You going to do that with 400 inches and that top heavy piston?

You have a lot to learn about building horsepower.
 
Exactly.

Also, people like to poo poo the 413 because of the " small " bore. But there's been many hard running 413s to be sure.
It's curse like 383 is that there's still a bunch of 400/440 around making less sense to build just like 318 and 360.

The 413 is like a .065" overbore away from being a 426 which seems to be the right size to make 500-550 hp, I guess why a lot of people build 408-416. Ford and Chev peeps love their 427 we should be more open to the 413/426.
 
Again, you don’t have a clue. Like I said, geometry matters.

The deck is way too tall even on a B engine for that short stroke. Ever consider ring seal?

So I’ll do a 3.5 inch stroke small block and turn it 8k. You going to do that with 400 inches and that top heavy piston?

You have a lot to learn about building horsepower.
Nope. I would build a lightweight rod long rod motor, hockey puck piston 400 grams lighter than stock, spin it 8,000 too, and do everything your small block does, only bigger. Why do you think a small block can turn more rpm than a big block? Have you not heard of 11,000 rpm big blocks? (Otherwise known as pro stock?)
Small blocks are terrific, how many are there in prostock?
 
Nope. I would build a lightweight rod long rod motor, hockey puck piston 400 grams lighter than stock, spin it 8,000 too, and do everything your small block does, only bigger. Why do you think a small block can turn more rpm than a big block? Have you not heard of 11,000 rpm big blocks? (Otherwise known as pro stock?)
Small blocks are terrific, how many are there in prostock?


You‘ll still be dealing with windage loss with any B or RB deal. Easily a 50 HP killer right there. And there is very little you can do about that. Not even a dry sump will fix that.


Do you remember PS Truck? I do. 358 inches in IIRC a 2800 pound truck. With truck aerodynamics.

And yet, if you analyze the numbers you’d find that the PST, if it was given a 2500 pound chassis and another 50 inches would be right there with PS car.

Everyone knew it. The trucks were far more popular than the cars were.

And the PS engines use maybe, MAYBE a 3.700 stoke. Most times it’s under 3.700 depending on bore.

EDIT: I forgot to mention at least 2 inch longer pushrods on the B engine. That’s an RPM killer right there. I can tell by the way you talk you’ve never had an engine at 8000 rpm with a reliable tach. You’d know how much the little **** adds up. And it adds up. Quick.
 
You‘ll still be dealing with windage loss with any B or RB deal. Easily a 50 HP killer right there. And there is very little you can do about that. Not even a dry sump will fix that.


Do you remember PS Truck? I do. 358 inches in IIRC a 2800 pound truck. With truck aerodynamics.

And yet, if you analyze the numbers you’d find that the PST, if it was given a 2500 pound chassis and another 50 inches would be right there with PS car.

Everyone knew it. The trucks were far more popular than the cars were.

And the PS engines use maybe, MAYBE a 3.700 stoke. Most times it’s under 3.700 depending on bore.

EDIT: I forgot to mention at least 2 inch longer pushrods on the B engine. That’s an RPM killer right there. I can tell by the way you talk you’ve never had an engine at 8000 rpm with a reliable tach. You’d know how much the little **** adds up. And it adds up. Quick.
Maybe. I had a small block that I spun to 7500,,pretty sure it would have been faster spun,to 6500.
So, show me a non-displacement-limited class (pro stock truck was not allowed to run big block, even at a small block displacement) where a small block is faster than a big block.
I will concede that a small inch small block can make more hp/cube than a big block. Can. Doesn't necessarily will.
Hypothetically, Which do you want in your race car, at a hypothetical 2500 lbs. A two liter rice burner that makes 120hp/liter, ....... or a 2800 lbs car with a 80 hp/liter engine..... with 632 cu in.?
I think the 900hp car would be faster.

And I'd rather have a big block that makes the same power at 6000, as your small block at 8000.
 
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1 inch difference.

A small block PR is a little over 7 inches. B engines are around 9 inches and the RB stuff is an inch or better than that.

Again, deck height (and by extension) pushrod length is a big deal. Trying to turn 8k on a 7.300 pushrods is far different than turning 8k with 9 inches plus of pushrods.

Details (and geometry) matters.
 
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