Scarebird caliper install

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salinasjoel

salinasjoel

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Hey guys, question about the celebrity caliper install on Scarebird style brackets. I understand that the calipers are single piston and therefore need to slide, but if I torque the caliper bolts to spec on the brackets I don't understand how I will get any movement. The metal sleeve that the bolt runs through on the caliper has about 1/4" length extra sticking out on the pad side, is that what slides? It's pretty tight and I can't move it by hand? Any info is appreciated
 
yes the caliper bolts have sleeves that go through rubbers in the calipers. Calipers aren't supposed to mount so loosely that you'll move them by hand. Hydrolic pressure will move them.
 
salinasjoel said:
Thank you that's what I thought it's just been a while since I've fooled with a caliper setup like this
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hey there

did you ever get your scarebird conversion completed? if so, do they work well?


jp
 
I have done it and it does work well. I still need to work out the Prop valve though.

My car was originally 9" Drum Brakes all around with the stock distribution valve. I am wondering if a 73+ or Kelsey Hayes prop valve would work ok.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I have done it and it does work well. I still need to work out the Prop valve though.

My car was originally 9" Drum Brakes all around with the stock distribution valve. I am wondering if a 73+ or Kelsey Hayes prop valve would work ok.
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To make your current distribution block work with front disk you can install an in-line proportioning valve in the line that goes to your rear brakes, such as this one:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a0707-1/overview/

Or better yet you can replace the stock distribution block with an adjustable-rear one such as this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a0730/overview/
 
plumkrazee70 said:
This is true, by then id have to make my own lines. :(
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If you buy some Nickel/Copper brake line it's very easy to do. You can easily double-flare that stuff with a cheap tool. You don't need to bend all new lines, just get brass flared-end to flared-end connectors and connect to your existing lines.
 
So, anyone use scarebird recently. The only time I messed with it, it was a big ordeal machining hubs and such. But that was years ago. Newer sets seem to call for different rotors. I might do this again...thoughts?

sb
 
mopar_nocar said:
So, anyone use scarebird recently. The only time I messed with it, it was a big ordeal machining hubs and such. But that was years ago. Newer sets seem to call for different rotors. I might do this again...thoughts?

sb
Click to expand...

You don't have to machine anything with the newer kits. Just have to either drill the rotors to 5x4" or buy their rotors that are pre drilled. Otherwise everything else is bolt on.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
You don't have to machine anything with the newer kits. Just have to either drill the rotors to 5x4" or buy their rotors that are pre drilled. Otherwise everything else is bolt on.
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Good deal. I am picking up a 72 Dart tomorrow and thinking about getting it road worthy. Might go this route. For once, I am getting a car that is running....weird.

sb
 
I had to modify the calipers to fit my Dart. They hit without being modified. It just took a little time with a grinder to remove two small nubs on the calipers which are not needed on our cars. Other than that it was a pretty simple swap. I used a newer prop valve that I got from a member here.
 
1968dartman said:
I had to modify the calipers to fit my Dart. They hit without being modified. It just took a little time with a grinder to remove two small nubs on the calipers which are not needed on our cars. Other than that it was a pretty simple swap. I used a newer prop valve that I got from a member here.
Click to expand...

By newer prop valve, do you mean an adjustable one or a 73+ factory disc one?
 
I had a set on my 66 dart, did not like the stopping power that much. sold the setup. My opinion,
 
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