Scattershields

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ZachBecken

ZachBecken

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I’ve got a 68 Dart that’s getting a 451 low deck stroker. I’m going to put a scatter shield in it but I’m wondering which brand to go with for ease of installation. I’ve heard good things about the old school ansen units but I’m still looking for peoples opinions.
 
You may not have many choices. I've only seen on Ansen with my own eyes.

You can find them used here on FABO and other places.

I'm not 100% sure Lakewood makes a scatter shield for Chrysler's any more.

There is Browells but I've never used one although they look nice.

McLeod used to make them for Chrysler's but I don't think they make them any more either.


Whatever you do, spend the money and get a window put in it before you ever even install it.
 
QuickTime is readily available and fits the car nicely but if using a mechanical linkage you are deff going to need to do some tweaking!
 
I have a Lakewood bb one with the block plate I would turn loose of, are you using a 10 1/2 (130 tooth) flywheel or a 11 (143 tooth flywheel)? the reason I ask, is if you use the 10 1/2 there is a starter install kit that is needed, (and they are like chickens teeth, hard to find). If you use the 11 inch you just bolt the starter in. Pm me if interested
 
It all depends on how you are controlling that clutch, hydraulic or mechanical linkage. I had one mocked up on my 383 with a 130 tooth 10.5 clutch/flywheel setup. You needed to use the starter mount kit that was a pain in the *** to line up correctly. While in mockup stage, I picked my transmission up from Jaime Passon. He was asking me about my setup. He then laughed and said to do myself a favor, sell the Lakewood and put on a stock bell. He said it took him a solid week to get the mechanical linkage working on his big block Dart with Lakewood Scattershield. This is with a lift and a machine shop. Lakewood built those bells to bolt into a B body or E body and the A bodies were just an afterthought. They sell blankets to put on your stock bell. Not sure about the Ansen, but I do know that Quicktime is part of Lakewood. They are different, but I have heard of problems with their linkage alignment too. If going hydraulic any will work. Good luck
 
I use a Quicktime on my 408 stroker. Perfect fit in my 68 Dart. I can't comment on the linkage aspect of it as I run a hydraulic clutch setup.
 
I run mechanical linkages my 383 68 Dart. Everything is fighting for space. I run 1 3/4 TTI headers, mopar mini starter, and a TTI z bar ( they have a modified one). It aligns and works. Without a lift, it is a chore with the big block mechanical linkage 4 speed package install.
 
684door said:
It all depends on how you are controlling that clutch, hydraulic or mechanical linkage. I had one mocked up on my 383 with a 130 tooth 10.5 clutch/flywheel setup. You needed to use the starter mount kit that was a pain in the *** to line up correctly. While in mockup stage, I picked my transmission up from Jaime Passon. He was asking me about my setup. He then laughed and said to do myself a favor, sell the Lakewood and put on a stock bell. He said it took him a solid week to get the mechanical linkage working on his big block Dart with Lakewood Scattershield. This is with a lift and a machine shop. Lakewood built those bells to bolt into a B body or E body and the A bodies were just an afterthought. They sell blankets to put on your stock bell. Not sure about the Ansen, but I do know that Quicktime is part of Lakewood. They are different, but I have heard of problems with their linkage alignment too. If going hydraulic any will work. Good luck
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I have nothing for this swap yet other than a trans. I want to run mechanical linkage. Do you have any suggestions on what would be the easiest way to accomplish this. I’m also not totally against going hydraulic other Than the cost
 
Hydraulic for ease of installation by far and the newer setups are nice and should have no leakage problems.

With my QuickTime bell and all of brewers linkage I ended up having to use the b body clutch fork bracket, and tweak the bell housing ball stud mount a fair amount to get it straight. Also the hole for the ballstud mount in the bellhousing was the wrong size, I had to modify the clutch adjuster rod as well, pretty much just made a new one. I also trimmed the trans tunnel/firewall seam. All in all the linkage seems like it works pretty good and has no binding issues, if I ever mess with it some more I’m going to modify the z bar a little to center up the clutch pedal rod going through the firewall.

I also added an engine limiter to keep things from moving around because they moved quite a bit before, Plus i have fender well headers so no clearance problems there.
 
The closer to stock you make it the better for ease of mechanical linkage install. The fork in the road if you stick with a stock bell comes in two parts: exhaust and z-bar. The 67-69 big block a body manifolds are close to 1000 bucks. You car run a stock 67-69 big block z-bar. Or if you go TTI headers, you have to buy TTI's big block a-body z-bar.
 
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