School me, 3.79 strokers

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Didnt mean to offend you... I searched Scat catalog, and can only assume you got a full race custom forged series crank...that the only one I could find if youwant a 3.79" stroke with 360 mains at 2.81" . All the rest are 3.58" and 4" strokes.
 
And he quotes me and doesn’t leave a message.

Hummmmmmmmmmmmm
 
Jessearent said:
Ok, Mopar, not Scat crank....
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I don’t understand this above…. But moving along….
Jessearent said:
I must have missread a previous message . Those Mopar cranks are rare. Arent they discontinued now? Want to sell me one? You go 2 right?
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They are discontinued. So, they’re probably rare as far as being brand spanking new in a box BUT! Check around and even visit a local dealer to see who they’re connected to as in other dealerships to check their inventory. I have found unusual items this way. It’s actually amazing what another dealer has on their shelf collecting dust. It happens when someone pays for a part or a wrong one was sent and hits the shelf never to be picked up. My old Dodge dealer had brand new never used in the box parts dating back to the 30’s. Plymouth Volare fenders hanging on the wall, leanburn ignitions, full rear ends. It really was mind blowing.

Cranks, not for sale. I have use for the cranks I have. The 3.45, 8 bolt crank has just been dropped off with just about everything with a block and crank spacers to be assembled just this passed Wednesday. Darn left the rod bearings behind. Dang it!
The small journal crank is to be used with spacers in a 360 block.

The forged 3.58 crank is being planned right now and should be ready (if all things proceed right) by the fall. If it doesn’t go smoothly, next year.
 
Have you thought about using a Chevy rod or smaller journal on an offset OEM crank?

Stock cast cranks can hold some really good power. After cutting them, there’s a host of measures you can take to help strengthen the crank further.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Have you thought about using a Chevy rod or smaller journal on an offset OEM crank?

Stock cast cranks can hold some really good power. After cutting them, there’s a host of measures you can take to help strengthen the crank further.
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If you are going to offset grind the crank you really need to go down to 2.00 throws. That’s -.125 so you get about .100ish maybe a skosh more increase in stroke.

If I could find a reasonable 2 inch throw connecting rod I would consider doing it.
 
Rat Bastid said:
If you are going to offset grind the crank you really need to go down to 2.00 throws. That’s -.125 so you get about .100ish maybe a skosh more increase in stroke.

If I could find a reasonable 2 inch throw connecting rod I would consider doing it.
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The aftermarket “Generic” rods are pretty good. How much power are you looking/thinking to create?
 
rumblefish360 said:
The aftermarket “Generic” rods are pretty good. How much power are you looking/thinking to create?
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I don’t know yet. I’m not going to put a roll bar in so I’m skating on thin ice.

I‘ll see what the pig engine I have now does on the dyno and then start seriously thinking about the W2 stroker.
 
Rat Bastid said:
I don’t know yet. I’m not going to put a roll bar in so I’m skating on thin ice.

I‘ll see what the pig engine I have now does on the dyno and then start seriously thinking about the W2 stroker.
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Have you done any math on the W2 port window relating to CID and/or the rpm per sq. In. Of port window?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Have you done any math on the W2 port window relating to CID and/or the rpm per sq. In. Of port window?
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Yep. And the port will be undersized so I’ll have to deal with that. Depending on bore size I’ll be 393 to 401 inches. So shifting at 7200 or a bit more even if I make them rectangular they won’t have enough area.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I don’t understand this above…. But moving along….

They are discontinued. So, they’re probably rare as far as being brand spanking new in a box BUT! Check around and even visit a local dealer to see who they’re connected to as in other dealerships to check their inventory. I have found unusual items this way. It’s actually amazing what another dealer has on their shelf collecting dust. It happens when someone pays for a part or a wrong one was sent and hits the shelf never to be picked up. My old Dodge dealer had brand new never used in the box parts dating back to the 30’s. Plymouth Volare fenders hanging on the wall, leanburn ignitions, full rear ends. It really was mind blowing.

Cranks, not for sale. I have use for the cranks I have. The 3.45, 8 bolt crank has just been dropped off with just about everything with a block and crank spacers to be assembled just this passed Wednesday. Darn left the rod bearings behind. Dang it!
The small journal crank is to be used with spacers in a 360 block.

The forged 3.58 crank is being planned right now and should be ready (if all things proceed right) by the fall. If it doesn’t go smoothly, next
Click to expand...
 
Jessearent said:
Yes I like that idea, I will keep my ear to the ground and ask some old Dodge dealers. Thx
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Your welcome. IMO, you’ll be looking fit to find one OEM @ the dealership but it’s possible a& worth a few minutes of time to try.
Retro ding cranks or custom ordering one from a source is probably an easier route. Cheaper may not come into play there but brand new to your specs is really nice. Try American sources for custom ground cranks. If you’re looking for the 3.79 crank stroke, I know Molnar has them. We have a member here that is a Molnar dealer. Check the rod sale ad’s and look for the rotating assemblies being sold.

Not trying to be a jerk here but….. Here’s a posting tip, when you press reply, wait a few seconds and the. Move the quoted message up a tad, type your reply under it. Should your mouse marker only appear in the blue box of the quoted text, tap the enter or return key to have the mouse marker jump out of the blue box so your reply doesn’t appear within the quoted test your responding to.
:thumbsup:
 
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