school me on stroker smallblocks

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I think the stroked LAs are cool, but I'm running a 360 with the stock cast crank. I think even the stock crank was strong, though. For one thing, Ma Mopar greatly increased the main bearing diameter for this motor vs. the 318. Also, their casting technique was very good. I've never heard of a cast 360 crank breaking; have you? (I'd never for a moment deny that a forged crank is preferable, though.)

Thanks for all the engine-building tips and the information about balancing, moper. I find that really interesting. I hear what you are saying. If I ever do install a stroker kit in my LA motor, It will be an internally-balanced one.

But I have another Mopar with a 440, and I think I would probably build that motor up if I wanted the extra cubes.

I hope you don't think this was too far off-topic.

- retroguybilly
 
Most stroker rotating assembly kits are available with optional balancing and all the kits I looked at were internally balanced. If you don't get the optional balancing you still get the same pistons/rods/crank as the balanced kit would have. So if they offer the option to internally balance the kit but you buy it without that option then you should be able to have it internally balanced by a local shop without issue.

What Scat did with my "balanced" kit was take the manufacturer weight of the pistons and rods and only balanced the crank. They DID NOT equal the weight of each piston and rod and then balance the crank. Even using the piston and rod's manufacturer weights the crank was off 17 grams on one end. So I wasted $150 paying for Scat to "balance" the kit because I had to have it done correctly afterwards. I called Scat and they told me their balance was good enough and would not refund my money. Live and learn.

You also have to get all the bearing clearances, crank run out, and crank end play checked too. I had my local shop check all the Scat I-beam rods out and they didn't find any flaws what so ever with any of them.
 
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